I might be preaching to the east coast and dog and horse crowd here, but I had tough luck finding this info previously.
I've just rewaxed two hunting jackets, and I figured I'd give you the straight dope.
1. Sending your jacket away to Barbour now will be like waiting for Congress to pass urgent legislation – aka, you're gonna wait awhile. Do it NOW while its still warm enough outside to help you!
2. The best way to go is to use Barbour thornproof wax – call around and you can find a Barbour stockist with a supply of tins. Shouldn't run more than $12-14. Anywhere that sells Orvis typically has this stuff.
3. Get the jacket, a piece of wood or surface that can get messy, a pot you can put on the stove with a handle on it, your tin, a rag and those sponge paint brushes that are super cheap.
4. Pour water into saucepan/pot. Open wax tin, place into water (don't let the water get in the wax!). Heat on low. When is it ready? When the whole tin turns to an amber colored liquid – again, can't state enough, it should look like a tin of LIQUID, no chunks!
5. Now, go outside and lay down the jacket. Look for areas of wear (elbows, pockets, butt if you sit on it in a hide or in the Land Rover), and hit those first. Anywhere else can be fixed up later. How? Read on.
6. Dip the square foam brush into the liquid. It will suck up some, and then paint it on to the jacket's surface. Now (can't stress enough) after painting, get the rag and work it in! This is man's work, like in the day. You bought a tough jacket, be a tough guy! Rub it in good. That's the difference between a well waxed jacket and the rookie job you get some places that leaves your upholstery slightly tacky through the fall.
7. After painting, and rubbing, lay out in the sun. Oh I know its getting cooler – but the sun can still work wonders into October! Let it sit and absorb the wax.
8. Check for further need for more wax later. If all done, flip to the next side and have at it.
9. Should you have done a good job, the wax should be level, even and good to go. If you NEED to, hang over grass and hit with a blow dryer to even the coat. Don't dare think about a heat gun unless you want to ruin your coat, housepaint and relationship with your spouse.
10. Proudly wear around as a badge of your dogged determination to make a quality product last, doggonnit! And, for pete's sake, take off the little Barbour pin on the collar. Everyone knows what it is. Sam Watterston doesn't wear his, you don't wear yours.
I hope this helps you all out in Barbour-land (or, if you insist on domestic products, Filson-ville). I've read some cockamamie schemes for doing it, and this is about as well as I've learned how. Forget that ice-water nonsense unless it's mid July!
Feel free to share any tips you might have, or appreciation of the jacket – especially if you can find me an old style liner for a C40 Beaufort along with a hood that doesn't cost $40 (20 pounds) in America!
I've just rewaxed two hunting jackets, and I figured I'd give you the straight dope.
1. Sending your jacket away to Barbour now will be like waiting for Congress to pass urgent legislation – aka, you're gonna wait awhile. Do it NOW while its still warm enough outside to help you!
2. The best way to go is to use Barbour thornproof wax – call around and you can find a Barbour stockist with a supply of tins. Shouldn't run more than $12-14. Anywhere that sells Orvis typically has this stuff.
3. Get the jacket, a piece of wood or surface that can get messy, a pot you can put on the stove with a handle on it, your tin, a rag and those sponge paint brushes that are super cheap.
4. Pour water into saucepan/pot. Open wax tin, place into water (don't let the water get in the wax!). Heat on low. When is it ready? When the whole tin turns to an amber colored liquid – again, can't state enough, it should look like a tin of LIQUID, no chunks!
5. Now, go outside and lay down the jacket. Look for areas of wear (elbows, pockets, butt if you sit on it in a hide or in the Land Rover), and hit those first. Anywhere else can be fixed up later. How? Read on.
6. Dip the square foam brush into the liquid. It will suck up some, and then paint it on to the jacket's surface. Now (can't stress enough) after painting, get the rag and work it in! This is man's work, like in the day. You bought a tough jacket, be a tough guy! Rub it in good. That's the difference between a well waxed jacket and the rookie job you get some places that leaves your upholstery slightly tacky through the fall.
7. After painting, and rubbing, lay out in the sun. Oh I know its getting cooler – but the sun can still work wonders into October! Let it sit and absorb the wax.
8. Check for further need for more wax later. If all done, flip to the next side and have at it.
9. Should you have done a good job, the wax should be level, even and good to go. If you NEED to, hang over grass and hit with a blow dryer to even the coat. Don't dare think about a heat gun unless you want to ruin your coat, housepaint and relationship with your spouse.
10. Proudly wear around as a badge of your dogged determination to make a quality product last, doggonnit! And, for pete's sake, take off the little Barbour pin on the collar. Everyone knows what it is. Sam Watterston doesn't wear his, you don't wear yours.
I hope this helps you all out in Barbour-land (or, if you insist on domestic products, Filson-ville). I've read some cockamamie schemes for doing it, and this is about as well as I've learned how. Forget that ice-water nonsense unless it's mid July!
Feel free to share any tips you might have, or appreciation of the jacket – especially if you can find me an old style liner for a C40 Beaufort along with a hood that doesn't cost $40 (20 pounds) in America!
