Show Us Your OVERCOATS

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Marc Chevalier, Oct 2, 2007.

  1. tropicalbob

    tropicalbob My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,739
    Location:
    miami, fl
    I just noticed on Ebay a couple of Shneider's of Salzburg overcoats in black wool and cashmere going for between $110.00 and $190.00. I've had one for years and years and love it to distraction. Although it's as minimalist in design as you could want, it's a beautiful and useful one with something military about it. I was very lucky to find one in Prussian Blue: every time I put it on, which is all too seldom, I get an urge for a bit of "lebensraum."
     
  2. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Ran into this amazing coat this weekend. Labeled Patrick Lake Superior Brand. Very heavy coat. Interesting horsehide or similar leather on the cuffs and sleeves. Seller claimed that many things from the estate were from the turn of the century. I'm purely guessing that this coat is possibly 30's?? Interested to hear what you think.

    B

    patrick_coat_3 (677x1024).jpg patrick_coat_4.JPG patrick_coat_5.JPG patrick_coat_6.JPG patrick_coat_1.JPG
     
    Michael A, alfyman and willyto like this.
  3. Denton

    Denton One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    280
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    You really want Dinerman to answer your question, Buler, but unfortunately he is on the road having adventures. You might check out his threads on mackinaws. I think there is one under "Fedora Lounge Guides." As he has painstakingly documented, styles in these coats change very little over the decades. The fact that yours is unlined I think means that it wouldn't have been made later than the 1930s. The label and the leather trim look to me like signs of an earlier time, but mine is decidedly not an expert opinion.

    Anyway, looks like a nice old coat in amazing condition!
     
  4. Rabbit

    Rabbit Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,359
    Location:
    Live from Somewhere
    Very nice find, Buler. The coat is 20s-30s, difficult to narrow it further down. Dating based on feel/look of the fabric (quite hard wool, has a distinct feel), label font. The buttons, leather trimmings and the unlined construction fit in with that. I guess 30s is more likely. The position of the shoulder seams might be another indicator of 20s vs. 30s.

    And yes, 30s Mackinaws are usually unlined, 40s are often lined with either cotton or wool (often in check patterns); 50s are often lined with quilted rayon. 20s are sometimes unlined, sometimes lined with various fabrics or even with a thin leather (like chamois) as an added windbreaker, or made of a fabric with a different pattern on the reverse side (like solid right side, checked left side).
     
  5. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Thanks for the replies! I'm guessing that the buttons are vegetable ivory. Supposedly not used much after 1920s. I've done the usually searching on the maker name (trademark, google books, etc.) with no luck. I thought the leather trim was a bit unusual and was curious what specific task the maker was trying to accommodate.

    B

    vegetable_ivory_buttons.JPG
     
    esteban68 likes this.
  6. Doctor Damage

    Doctor Damage My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,259
    Location:
    Ontario
    The leather trim is to help protect against wear, similar to British donkey jackets, which similarly are usually unlined. That suggests to me that your coat was intended to be worn hard.

    If possible, could you take some photos of the inside of the coat to show how the sleeves are attached and finished, and how the collar attaches?
     
  7. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Doctor, I'd love to post more pics. But I have to go back and buy it first. I had already spent over my limit that day and didn't even try it on (I knew if it fit I'd have bought it). Wish I had taken shots of the back and inside. I'll be going back soon!

    As for the leather trim, I understood it was for wear protection. I was trying to figure out what activity they were protecting the inside of the sleeves from.

    B
     
  8. Rabbit

    Rabbit Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,359
    Location:
    Live from Somewhere
    Corozo buttons were very common on outercoats and jackets in the 20s. I don't see many of them on coats after the early/mid 30s. The 20s corozo buttons are often a thing of beauty.

    What size do you reckon this thing is? Small or more like your size?
     
  9. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Rabbit, the jacket looked to be a decent size. Usually you can tell right away if it's tiny, but this looked to have pretty decent shoulder width. I'm trying to get in contact with the antique shop to have him measure it.

    B
     
  10. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    I did go read Dinerman's thread on Mackinaws. Low and behold, he documents the Patrick-Duluth Woolen mills company. Seems this jacket may be a very early example before the company switched to the Patrick-Duluth name (my speculation).

    B
     
  11. Doctor Damage

    Doctor Damage My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,259
    Location:
    Ontario
    Oh sorry, ha ha
    Hard to tell since it's not really a strange setup. I've seen donkey jackets with the same. I find the use of two different colours of leather on the pockets interesting. Would a work jacket have that sort of detail? I'm thinking this must have been an upmarket coat.
     
  12. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    395
    Location:
    Germany
    Great! Never saw a coat like this before - not from the 20's/30's!
    But there were similar overcoats in the late 60's, right?
     
  13. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    So it turns out the jacket is right around a 42. Which happens to be my size. I'll be making the trek up north tomorrow to pick up the jacket!

    B
     
  14. buler

    buler My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,909
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Picked up the Patrick overcoat. Fits me perfect! Very stiff, heavy jacket. Here are some detail pictures.

    B

    Back

    IMG_1204 (662x1024).jpg

    Collar attachment

    IMG_1200 (1024x768).jpg

    Outside shoulder seam

    IMG_1202 (736x1024).jpg

    Inside seaming

    IMG_1206 (768x1024).jpg

    Inside arm attachment

    IMG_1206.JPG

    Pocket finishing

    Buttonhole finish IMG_1198 (768x1024).jpg

    IMG_1197 (1024x767).jpg

    Button closeup

    IMG_1199 (1024x768).jpg
     
    Michael A, willyto, alfyman and 2 others like this.
  15. willyto

    willyto Practically Family

    Messages:
    990
    Location:
    Barcelona
    You have a tank right there for the rest of your life. Nice find.

    There's a similar one on Etsy:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. VintageEveryday

    VintageEveryday A-List Customer

    Messages:
    383
    Location:
    Woodside, NY
    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg Bought this 1950s overcoat for 20 bucks from a thrift shop (this place has some very nice pieces for a goodwill!) it fits me nicely, but the one thing I don't like is that its too small for me to wear a suit jacket underneath. But as an overcoat with a vest, shirt and tie underneath, it can't be beat! It contrasts smartly with my hat, which I didn't think would look great, but the fawn color paired with the gunmetal grey/red windowpane looks nice, I think.
     
  17. Luftwaffles

    Luftwaffles One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    226
    Location:
    South Carolina, US
    Received what I believe to be a 1910s-1920s fur lined ulster. There's some moth damage on the right skirt but that doesn't really stop me from wearing the thing.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Even the sleeves are lined in mink!
     
  18. Michael A

    Michael A I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    5,587
  19. belfastboy

    belfastboy My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,983
    Location:
    vancouver, canada
    Now that is a serious winter coat.
     
  20. Mean Eyed Matt

    Mean Eyed Matt A-List Customer

    Messages:
    395
    Location:
    Germany
    Really a nice one, Michael!
    Is it possibly a late 60's coat? Would like to see the lining...
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.