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[Group Captain]

Moggie

Panosports. The car was restored after an SCCA racing career. I still have original wheels & tyres but it looks great with the mags.

You're one of only two folks who knows about the old "Cream Crackers". My TD is painted in the same color scheme and bears the vanity plate "Crm Crkr".

 

[Mr. 'H']

Mr. H,
Well, this was an ebay find I picked up here in california. Me and a friend drove up north to escalon to pick it up. After 600 miles and eating at about 6 in-n-outs she came home and began the transformation that's still under construction. Again, she's all original. All gauges and electrical works. Radio works too! Rebuilt wiper motor works. For the winter the heater works! And being in southern california brings warm, well more like Blazing summers! Luckily the poor mans air conditioning/ cowl vent is fully functional! Original upholstery in great condition. Headliner is excellent too! All glass is great except one small crack on the lower portion of the drivers window but it's straight glass so it is an easy fix.
Body is straight with some cracks in the paint here and there. I think this was the first time it's been polished/buffed in ages! It really needed it but now I see all it's imperfections-ahem, i mean 'character' so she will hopefully be getting a fresh coat of paint in the near future. Trim is good minus the drivers side rocker trim. It's bent and needs to be replaced. Any leads on any from '46-'48 for a coupe would be much helpful!
The plastic on the knobs and such are intact. I'm not sure if they're Bakelite but I haven't checked and not sure if they came standard like that from the factory. However, I do know Bakelite had a lot to do with the auto industry back then so it's a possibility.
Brakes have been redone and so has the emergency brake as well. The whole underside is surprisingly clean. And it looks as if new shocks were installed not too long ago. Bumpers will get re-chromed but not until I get some more important things out of the way.
The motor is a rebuilt Flat-Six. Bored .030" and the crank has .010" oversize bearings! Definitely another easy rebuilt in the future for this block.
At one time they even made .100" pistons! That's amazing!
Currently I' rebuilding a flat-six from a '55 Plymouth Plaza that I plan od swapping over later on. This one will have a little more umph in it! dual carb setup with split exhaust manifold for better efficiency. Performance cam and hardened valve seats so it does better on heat and gas.
Wow! Look what you've done Mr. H! Haha, once I get started on cars I can ramble on and on

I knew of Rob a while back from myspace. But it's been a while since I had one. I just became too busy with school and work to keep up with everyone. Maybe I'll start another one up. We'll see..
I hear his is all original as well. I noticed the spotlight, which is a neat touch. I plan on finding myself some old Appleton's. Hopefully S-552..If not, some Unity D-1's They're similar in form and wayyy neat!
Never met rob in person but I'm sure he's a swell guy.

As far as aesthetics go...
Kustomizing cars dates alllll the way back to the early 30's. It was the Other genre of afficionado's just as today's crowd with the trophy queens and billet guys on classics. I feel like we are on the original and more traditional way. I identify with the philosophy of making an already beautiful car much more streamlined and appealing to the eye. Incorporating personal touches and different aspects of art to bring something out that looked like it could've been factory. Bringing the car lower than regular ride height not only makes gives it a sleeker stance but, if done correctly, gives you better handling. Here are some examples:

=Jesse Lopez' '41 Ford (late '40's)=

=Sam Barris' Merc (early '50's)=

Hope that gives you an idea!

=Adrian=

Adrian: wow, wow and double wow. You know your stuff my friend. I think that this car is going to be perfect for you - Rob said about his that they are really practical - he uses his as a daily driver but he doesn't drive to far - last I talked to him he was working in Pasadena.

I rode in Rob's Ply a couple of years ago (I'm in the back seat):

And thanks agan for such a good comment on customization - it's hard to believe the last few pics were of the day.

Here's my car, a '41 Buick:

 

[Forgotten Man]

I feel like we are on the original and more traditional way. I identify with the philosophy of making an already beautiful car much more streamlined and appealing to the eye. Incorporating personal touches and different aspects of art to bring something out that looked like it could've been factory. Bringing the car lower than regular ride height not only makes gives it a sleeker stance but, if done correctly, gives you better handling. Here are some examples:

=Adrian=

Funny thing, in the 1939 Plymouth sales book, the cars look more streamlined then the actual models did in real life.

However, I'm from the "Stock" camp, I appreciate a period custom job, as long as it's done well and not over done.

My self, I would never lower the roof or body! I'll tell you why, you may get a sleeker look but, one thing I hate, and loathe and absolutely dislike is the fact that so many cars have NO HEAD ROOM! So, one of the most precious things I love about my '46 is the high roof and ample head room! I'm a tall guy and love wearin' hats... and the nice high stance of the car offers for better visibility then the narrow lower windows. If you think the windows on most classic cars are small already, you're really uppin' the blind spots if you lower your roof.

Also, I'd never lower the body... and the reason being is that with a daily driver, I encounter bad weather from time to time... it can rain here rather bad during some parts of the year and our streets flood rather quick. If I had a lowered car, I'd have to keep a bucket in the front seat to use for bailin' water out! The nice tall 16" rims I have and original height help the car stay dry and can ride through deep water on streets during such storms.

When these cars were manufactured, they designed them with very clean lines as is, and are just beautiful in my minds eye without feeling having to change a thing... and they're more practical stock from my experience... I've driven my car nearly 5 years straight now... very few complaints.

However, it's more original to be original! The number of guys tweaking' out their cars in the 30's to the 50's paled in comparison to the number of stock autos on the road of the those times.

All in all, enjoy your hobby and keep it vintage no matter what ya do to your ride... nothing vintage or classic about car that's all shaved, dropped, channeled, fully loaded with A/C, CD changers and digital gages and no chrome!

 

[Forgotten Man]

after some polishing...

some new shoes...

all polished...

...

...

Thanks for letting me share.

=Adrian=

And you wanna lower it??? She looks smoooooooooth as is! You did a great job on gettin' that paint to shine! I'll tell ya, they're only "Original" once! That paint looks pretty darn good my friend!

If I were you, I wouldn't do anything more to the car... she looks swell!

PS: Didn't you have photos on your myspace page of a 46 P-15 Club Coupe you were customizing?

 

[Smithy]

You're one of only two folks who knows about the old "Cream Crackers". My TD is painted in the same color scheme and bears the vanity plate "Crm Crkr".

Classic British sports cars are one of my big loves and I love the inter-war period of racing.

Keen to see some snaps of the TD.

 

[Twitch]

Clipper- she looks swell! Converting to 12v in So. Cal. will run you at least $450. My Packard is still 6v. There is nothing that fresh parts and CLEAN connections won't help with your 6v. Part of the key is getting a powerful 6v battery. I have an 865 CCA Interstate brand.

The big difference is the generator and alternator which will produce about double the juice even at idle. But do you need it? With a big battery you have enough starting power for the day. When it is in the garage a battery tender is good because it keeps the battery fully charged always. This is good for cars that sit some.

Any 6v electrical device like radio or electric overdrive, etc. will need a step up device attached when the person does the conversion. They keep working on 6v in a 12 v system. This isn't always the best working thing but there are compromises at times.

Rewiring is important. Whether you convert 6v to 12v you should get the old wire situation in hand too. I did that.

I can recommend a guy though he is a bit far from you Dago's Auto Electric in Norwalk (562) 860-4686 dagobert-cervantes@sbcglobal.net

 

[Forgotten Man]

There is nothing that fresh parts and CLEAN connections won't help with your 6v. Part of the key is getting a powerful 6v battery. I have an 865 CCA Interstate brand.

I agree! I was having a problem with slow starting... ya know the typical 6v Rrrr, Rrrrr, Rrrrrua starting noise... lol but, I cleaned the contacts on the starter, gen, and bat and she fires up much faster! Took all of 20 minutes!

A battery tender is a good idea if you don't plan on drivin' it daily.

 

[=Clipper=]

Clipper- she looks swell! Converting to 12v in So. Cal. will run you at least $450. My Packard is still 6v. There is nothing that fresh parts and CLEAN connections won't help with your 6v. Part of the key is getting a powerful 6v battery. I have an 865 CCA Interstate brand.

The big difference is the generator and alternator which will produce about double the juice even at idle. But do you need it? With a big battery you have enough starting power for the day. When it is in the garage a battery tender is good because it keeps the battery fully charged always. This is good for cars that sit some.

Any 6v electrical device like radio or electric overdrive, etc. will need a step up device attached when the person does the conversion. They keep working on 6v in a 12 v system. This isn't always the best working thing but there are compromises at times.

Rewiring is important. Whether you convert 6v to 12v you should get the old wire situation in hand too. I did that.

I can recommend a guy though he is a bit far from you Dago's Auto Electric in Norwalk (562) 860-4686 dagobert-cervantes@sbcglobal.net

Twitch,
I understand what you mean about having fresh and clean parts on a regular 6volt system. Lets say you're on a road trip...You brought all the bare essentials-just in case you happen to come across any unanticipated circumstances. A tire not only goes out but a headlight bulb! Now what! You cant just go to any shop or auto parts store and ask for a 6volt bulb, right?!
To me, t's a little more dependable to have everything all converted to a 12 volt system. And, I'll admit it took some getting used to the idea. But knowing this is a daily driver I plan on taking some pretty long road trips in 'er and wouldn't want to bail just because I didn't bring enough 6 volt spares.

VintagePowerWagons.com sells a conversion kit for plys for $289. Which includes: A rebuilt 12volt alternator, 12 volt coil, coil resistor, all mounting brackets, All 12 volt bulbs, 12 volt horn, 12 volt fuel gauge resistor, 12 volt heater motor, wiring diagrams.
Sounds like a good deal and I've heard nothing but good things about them. What do you think? However, I think I'll look into the reference you added and see what else I could consider. Thanks for your advice!

=Adrian=

 

[Twitch]

Well it depends hpw far you're planning on being from home or a place that has 6v bulbs. Believe it or not they, or 12v, don't burn out very often. And they do have a $40 jump starter for 6v. $300 bucks doesn't sound bad but you may need some additional step up ballast resistors for other devices like radio and gauges. This is where I get leery of my ability and think of an auto electrician.

Most 6v horns blast like hell on 12v. Like the starter they usually stay 6v because they aren't carrying current for very long. All the 6v stuff and wiring in the old cars is stout enough to carry the current too so don't worry about it unless it's in poor, cracked, corroded shape.

Starters can be rewired as 12v but unless it goves any problem leave it. 12v will give somewhat more power to the coil distributor and plugs so make sure all wiring concerning those items is good.

Whatever you do have fun with the car!!

 

[Forgotten Man]

I've had my '46 for four years now... never had to replace a headlight bulb... besides, their sealed beam! You'd have to replace the whole headlamp! And you'd not find a 12v sealed beam at most auto stores I believe... maybe NAPA but, not many on dark long stretches along 66 Most P-15 owners or vintage car owners who do drive these guys carry an array of spare parts! Spare generators, solenoids, voltage regulators and few spare bulbs for the tail lamps and break lamp on the trunk lid.

These cars are pretty rugged; a buddy of mine that lives up in Santa Rosa has a fully restored '47 P-15... the most beautiful P-15 I've ever seen! He drove that down from his place to San Diego for a car show! No problems and its still 6v. I drive mine daily and if I ever planned to take a long road trip, I take the car in for a check up and I'd be sure to have a few parts in the trunk on hand if I needed them... even with a 12v system it's only good sense to have a few back up parts in there for emergencies.

I'm really happy to hear you plan on driving it daily... P-15's make some of the best daily drivers or, any other Plymouth really... most of the ones from the late 30's to the 60's... great cars! And that's why they say:

 

[=Clipper=]

Forgotten Man, Forgot about the sealed beams! Thanks! Plymouth DOES build great cars!

Twitch, Thanks for the advice and compliments! She'll surely be a pleasure to drive!

=Adrian=

 

[jeep44]

Well, it's not really old,actually brand-new,but it is still pretty much a 1955 Royal Enfield. This is one of the last few bikes made with the old style engine-all newer ones have to conform to all sorts of worldwide emissions rules. I saw one at a light last summer,and it got me thinking about getting one. It was just delivered to my home yesterday,and despite the cold,I was running around the neighborhood on it already. It definitely has plenty of chrome and alloy to polish!

 

[Retro Rob]

I finally remembered to take the camera on a run.

 

[The Wingnut]

Very nice, Rob.

Yours inspired mine:

She's not finished with by a long shot. Many, many, many modifications and improvements to come. A new motor and trans will be in her hopefully by the end of the month, after which the suspension is getting a rebuild and new wheels and tires will go on...then the crazy aero mods will begin, all gleaned from windtunnel testing. I'm currently designing a custom fabricated spoiler for her. No BS 'looks'-oriented stuff, her form is following function. Neon, stickers, loud stereos and wild bodykits are for posers and scenesters.

...still nameless after 4 years of ownership. Every other car I've owned has had a name. This one keeps eluding me.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Solstice Coupe(Targa) Production Jan. 2009

HD

 

[merkman]

HoosierDaddy]Solstice Coupe(Targa) Production Jan. 2009

Hey, now you won't have to put up with that horrible top!lol ( I Keed , I keed)
Seriously, they got all the proportions right on this one.Now give it about 300HP and you've got some real entertainment......

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Hey, now you won't have to put up with that horrible top!lol ( I Keed , I keed)
Seriously, they got all the proportions right on this one.Now give it about 300HP and you've got some real entertainment......

Yeah...I never really got the horrible softtop discription. The insulated top I have is easy down..easy up..and cabin quiet. Evidentally the more basic first year tops were something different. The 2 seater GXP with it's current 260 HP 260 torque in slightly under 3,000 lbs is really quite entertaining already with 0-60 at 5.5 sec. or under...even for this old Vetteman...especialy in the twisties. I also think they did a decent design on the hardtop...although a vert is much more fun for me.
HD

 

[Smithy]

Here is a new, very classically inspired motor from German Weismann...

I must say I like the '50s Jag inspired grill and the overall look. Apparently it goes like a cut cat as well which never hurts.

And Rob, that reminds me of my friend's Series I...

Because it reminded him of his ex-wife I was pretty much the only person driving it. He was a former Jag mechanic and had imported the car into NZ from California, rebuilt the engine and converted it to right-hand drive. I nearly bought it off of him for mate's rates but didn't as we were coming to Norway. I regret not buying her enormously now as we are moving back to that part of the world.


EDIT: Had to redo the link to the Weismann, as it wasn't working.

 

[The Wingnut]

Finally got the motor in my Z swapped. It's obnoxious as hell. Fresh SU carbs, what evidently is a Nissan competition transmission, 3-into-2 header, 'twice pipes' exhaust with straight-through glasspacks. Rumbles, rips, snorts, screams, occasionally breathes fire and squirts around pretty quickly. BIG improvement over the old motor.

Next step is to rebuild the suspension and get some decent wheels and tires on it.

 

[Smithy]

Good to hear Wingnut. It's always great fun (and frustration) doing up an old car. New motor sounds like it makes a huge difference.

Enjoyed the link, sounds "fruity"