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Discussion in 'Suits' started by BTJepson, Aug 11, 2009.
His cap appears to be cut from the same fabric as his overcoat.
Not sure about that collar though.
I see this sort of thing a lot... typically, with pin collar shirts these days, the pins that come with them tend to always be 2" where they really should have a pin that's 1 1/2" or 1 1/4"... the result being that the pin is there as a detail but doesn't pull the collar in tight to the tie knot as it should, even with a modern tie. If you don't like a knot the size of your own head, you can see a fair whack of the pin either side, especially with thin vintage ties, and it looks ridiculous.
This is the most common problem of all with OTR shirtmakers these days, in my experience. Anything with a collar that varies from the classic Jermyn Street semi-cutaway is guaranteed to be cut for anorexic little boys. I know I'm fat, but I'm hardly enormous.... I am perfectly comfortable in a Tyrwhitt "classic fit" shirt, if only they'd damn well give us a range of choice with collar shapes. Surely it's not only the uber-skinny that are interested in that?
And two of them!
Here's a couple of tab-collars from the film 'Take a Chance' (1937)
TT, those are nice. slightly longer in the points than my first reference images:
There is a real versatility in tab collar shirts. I have one that is slightly rounded at the tips, it's a feature that I think looks better for a tab collar than a sharp point. I must remember to go for that look next time I have one made.
Vintage detachable tab collar shirt. The collar have some discolourations and wear to the edges but is perfectly wearable, and the shirt is in excellent condition.
I could make a pattern from it if anyone's interested.
I've picked up probably over a hundred vintage pieces during the last two weeks (including a few really rare items, like this one) so you can look forward to a LOT of pictures from me once I get the time to clean them up and photograph them.
Just what I was looking for, Papperskatt. A pattern would be awesome, but even just to have some measurements would be very helpful. Length of the collar points, collar height at the back and height of the collar stand back and front, please.
All right! I should have to time to have it done by the weekend.
Cool. Thanks. :eusa_clap
A pattern will have to wait, but here's some measurements (in CM).
(click the images for larger version)
Very helpful. Thanks again.
Cheers for that.
i have now; RRL:
I just saw this picture of Walter Gropius (from 1927). He seems to be wearing a tab collar shirt, with a bow tie. A rather odd look!
Another jackpot from RRL! It looks very authentic, but I guess that isn't exactly surprising.
yeah, they must have been looking at this thread ;-)
the shirt fabrics this F-W15 were the best i've seen from RRL. very 20s.
Look what I just found! I bought a set of 10 detachable collars on the local "ebay" and among them was this.
Late teens I think. I really like the look with the long pointy collar. The tabs are very high and it requires a really tiny tie knot.
And it fits too!
I really enjoy the influx of vintage tab collars as of late. This deadstock shirt sold on eBay recently for $145.
Interesting that these were super rare and now they are EVERYWHERE, it seems like. Really gorgeous stuff.