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Taking out a jacket

Splenahan

New in Town
Messages
7
Location
Upstate NY
I wear a rather large jacket size, which is often difficult to find in colors other than black, navy, and the occasional patterned. If I were to buy the next lower/next largest size (at the same length, so if I wear a 50R, I would by a 48R or 52R), could it be altered to better fit me, for a reasonable price (keep in mind, that I am a student)? Thanks for your help, in advance.
 

Tailor Tom

One of the Regulars
Messages
131
Location
Minneapolis, MN
My thoughts...

I would first go to a RELIABLE mens store and have them measure you, and then try on a few coats to see what will work best. The tailor there should be able to give you an honest opinion. If he doesn't...leave and find another place.

Second, understand that most suits are cut with smaller outlet these days, ie; they can only be opened up so far. With that thought, it is sometimes better to purchase larger and have it taken in, then to open a garment up.

Good luck
 

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
Son of a...

Well, I just got a sport coat dated 1949, Gabardine Wool 100% and it's too long. The length is close to 32 inches, and I'm borderline 30. I mean, what do I do? I already paid 50 bucks to get the thing here, I'm taking it by a tailor tomorrow, who I have not tried yet, and see what they say, but I fear this puppy is going back on the market... BUT IT'S GABARDINE WOOL!

There is no posting pictures to let you see, it is too long, and it is very obvious.

Tomasso and I already tackled this issue on a blue suit I have from the 60's.

Man!

On a brighter note, the other sport coat fits like a charm.
 

Torpedo

One Too Many
Messages
1,332
Location
Barcelona (Spain)
Well, I'm far from being an expert, but shortening a jacket, unless it is so much that the button or skirt pockets stance is thrown off kilter, is perfectly feasible and within the abilities of any reasonable tailor.
 

Tailor Tom

One of the Regulars
Messages
131
Location
Minneapolis, MN
My little bit....

Mr Vim said:
Well, I just got a sport coat dated 1949, Gabardine Wool 100% and it's too long. The length is close to 32 inches, and I'm borderline 30. I mean, what do I do? I already paid 50 bucks to get the thing here, I'm taking it by a tailor tomorrow, who I have not tried yet, and see what they say, but I fear this puppy is going back on the market... BUT IT'S GABARDINE WOOL!

There is no posting pictures to let you see, it is too long, and it is very obvious.

Tomasso and I already tackled this issue on a blue suit I have from the 60's.

Man!

On a brighter note, the other sport coat fits like a charm.

Shortening a coat can be a simple thing or a terrible disaster. Shortening most coats are limited to 1-1.5" due to pocket and button placement. And it will simply look really awkward (not to mention that is was worked on). The pockets them selves also usually get shortened too.

The waist line might have to be reworked also. ie; move the curve of the waistline up a bit to look more proportional as well.
 

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
Ah, yeah I forgot to write it has patch pockets, I thought that might make it easier. The buttons are fairly high up.

What I think I will do though, is wait on it. If I don't find a better jacket to replace it, I'll tailor it. If I do find a nice replacement, I think I will throw it up on the lounge classifieds. It's a 38 regular. I'm sure someone will want it.

ITS GABARDINE WOOL 100%! HOW COULD YOU NOT!
 

Undertow

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,126
Location
Des Moines, IA, US
Tailor Tom said:
I would first go to a RELIABLE mens store and have them measure you, and then try on a few coats to see what will work best. The tailor there should be able to give you an honest opinion. If he doesn't...leave and find another place.

Second, understand that most suits are cut with smaller outlet these days, ie; they can only be opened up so far. With that thought, it is sometimes better to purchase larger and have it taken in, then to open a garment up.

Good luck

Great advice! :arated:

When you receive your measurements from the tailor, make sure to WRITE THEM DOWN! Things like shoulder width, jacket waist, jacket inseam, etc. all seem easy to remember, but when you're on eBay or at a thrift shop, those numbers could save you alot of time and money. Moreover, you may think you're a 44/32 pant, but when they measure you, you could easily find out you're a 42/33, which could make alot of difference in how a suit fits you, or which suits you're able to buy. Likewise, you might think you're a 50R and come to find out you're really a 48L. Same goes for shirts - you could be used to a 16.5 36 and realize you're actually 17.5 34. Those are important numbers to know before you get started looking.

I think most tailors will tell you it's easier to pull in than it is to let out. On the other hand, as Tailor Tom already mentioned, trying to make a bigger jacket smaller can be hard too. You get puckering, weird drape, small pockets, missing buttons, etc.

So most importantly - get those measurements. Second, get clothes that fit! ;)
 

acl1

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
Southern California
Undertow said:
Great advice! :arated:

When you receive your measurements from the tailor, make sure to WRITE THEM DOWN! Things like shoulder width, jacket waist, jacket inseam, etc. all seem easy to remember, but when you're on eBay or at a thrift shop, those numbers could save you alot of time and money. Moreover, you may think you're a 44/32 pant, but when they measure you, you could easily find out you're a 42/33, which could make alot of difference in how a suit fits you, or which suits you're able to buy. Likewise, you might think you're a 50R and come to find out you're really a 48L. Same goes for shirts - you could be used to a 16.5 36 and realize you're actually 17.5 34. Those are important numbers to know before you get started looking.

I think most tailors will tell you it's easier to pull in than it is to let out. On the other hand, as Tailor Tom already mentioned, trying to make a bigger jacket smaller can be hard too. You get puckering, weird drape, small pockets, missing buttons, etc.

So most importantly - get those measurements. Second, get clothes that fit! ;)

Great advice. Also, it would definitely look a bit off to shorten a jacket by 2 inches. I would say 1 inch is the max.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
I hate to be a pedant .......(really I do)....... but you take in and you let out. [huh]


Carry on...........
 

Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
You heard the man! (*carries on busily*)

No seriously, anyone know if jackets back in the day were a bit longer than they are by today's standards? I heard that today, and feel its a line of bull. I mean, Tomasso, you commented on my suit jacket needing to be just below the crotch line on my trousers, so I thought that was the standard for the 1940's.
 

HosManHatter

One of the Regulars
Messages
207
Location
Northern CA
Excellent thread with some great advice! I am in the same boat as Sir Splenahan and often can`t find my size (48R/50R). It is true that taking a jacket in is an iffy affair and can cost a bit. I`ve found that if I try on my size but in a long instead of a regular it can often fit better.Of course you have to either absolutely love the jacket or have the cash for the alterations(sleeves will have to be shortened as well).

Just a thought here. I did come across a new big name tuxedo jacket last Summer for $15.00 but when a local tailor gave me an estimte of $100 to make it fit/look right on me I wimped out and returned the jacket.Hindsight:wish I would have kept it and gotten the work done...could of had my $300 dinner jacket for only $115(price+alterations).Oh well...

HMH
 

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