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The Bowler or Derby Hat

Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Alois Pichler Wien, measures 58 cm, 143 grams possibly early 1930s. I think it's Fur Felt but might have a small Wool content. I couldn't find a paper label and nothing points to a specific hat company. I am not aware of A.P.W. having a production facility so probably sourced. There is a wide fabric Band behind the main Band that I assume was a later add on that is permanently applied. I am not sure what it is for so I am checking with the seller to see if they have any information. The black Liner with gold A.P.W. mark really stands out.

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Alois Pichler Wien waxed Paper Bag "Pichler Hüte Sind Weltbekannt / Pichler Hats Are World Famous" that this Stiff Felt was wrapped so probably original.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,240
Location
Central Texas
Another beauty. One picture shows a blue cast to the felt. A deep blue bowler would be something! It is probably just my monitor or visual "distortion" from the blue liner.
Alois Pichler Wien, measures 58 cm, 143 grams possibly early 1930s. I think it's Fur Felt but might have a small Wool content. I couldn't find a paper label and nothing points to a specific hat company. I am not aware of A.P.W. having a production facility so probably sourced. There is a wide fabric Band behind the main Band that I assume was a later add on that is permanently applied. I am not sure what it is for so I am checking with the seller to see if they have any information. The black Liner with gold A.P.W. mark really stands out.

52515637073_96b9559cd1_h.jpg


52515364614_02c2c4385d_h.jpg


52515643083_d1f6d9f0a0_h.jpg


52515372359_6598abe57d_h.jpg


52515108096_72a31e3c1a_h.jpg


52515651348_8cf92c16e7_h.jpg


Alois Pichler Wien waxed Paper Bag "Pichler Hüte Sind Weltbekannt / Pichler Hats Are World Famous" that this Stiff Felt was wrapped so probably original.

52528537219_10dd991fd0_h.jpg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,399
Location
Denmark
Alois Pichler Wien, measures 58 cm, 143 grams possibly early 1930s. I think it's Fur Felt but might have a small Wool content. I couldn't find a paper label and nothing points to a specific hat company. I am not aware of A.P.W. having a production facility so probably sourced. There is a wide fabric Band behind the main Band that I assume was a later add on that is permanently applied. I am not sure what it is for so I am checking with the seller to see if they have any information. The black Liner with gold A.P.W. mark really stands out.

52515637073_96b9559cd1_h.jpg


52515364614_02c2c4385d_h.jpg


52515643083_d1f6d9f0a0_h.jpg


52515372359_6598abe57d_h.jpg


52515108096_72a31e3c1a_h.jpg


52515651348_8cf92c16e7_h.jpg


Alois Pichler Wien waxed Paper Bag "Pichler Hüte Sind Weltbekannt / Pichler Hats Are World Famous" that this Stiff Felt was wrapped so probably original.

52528537219_10dd991fd0_h.jpg
A wonderful new addition, Steve.

The added band is an oddity. As you mention in another thread, it does look similar to those you see on a Top Hat. Why someone would add one to a Bowler is a mystery.

The paper bag is the icing on the cake. Congrats.
 
Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
A wonderful new addition, Steve.

The added band is an oddity. As you mention in another thread, it does look similar to those you see on a Top Hat. Why someone would add one to a Bowler is a mystery.

The paper bag is the icing on the cake. Congrats.
Steve, Thanks! I agree about the add on Band. The seller is checking with her family to see if they know anything.
 
Messages
16,240
Location
Nederland
Alois Pichler Wien, measures 58 cm, 143 grams possibly early 1930s. I think it's Fur Felt but might have a small Wool content. I couldn't find a paper label and nothing points to a specific hat company. I am not aware of A.P.W. having a production facility so probably sourced. There is a wide fabric Band behind the main Band that I assume was a later add on that is permanently applied. I am not sure what it is for so I am checking with the seller to see if they have any information. The black Liner with gold A.P.W. mark really stands out.

52515637073_96b9559cd1_h.jpg


52515364614_02c2c4385d_h.jpg


52515643083_d1f6d9f0a0_h.jpg


52515372359_6598abe57d_h.jpg


52515108096_72a31e3c1a_h.jpg


52515651348_8cf92c16e7_h.jpg


Alois Pichler Wien waxed Paper Bag "Pichler Hüte Sind Weltbekannt / Pichler Hats Are World Famous" that this Stiff Felt was wrapped so probably original.

52528537219_10dd991fd0_h.jpg
Great find, Steve. The liner really stands out. Could it be that the ribbon is a replacement that was sewn over a mourning band by mistake? I have a bowler that has a mourning band, so it isn't something unique to top hats.
 
Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Great find, Steve. The liner really stands out. Could it be that the ribbon is a replacement that was sewn over a mourning band by mistake? I have a bowler that has a mourning band, so it isn't something unique to top hats.
Stefan, Thanks! I am aware mourning bands are not just on Top Hats. In this case I am certain the wider fabric Band was added later in it's present form. It doesn't go all the way down to the edge of the Brim. Also it's not evenly applied. The main band is professional applied. It's possible the mourning band (assuming that is what it is) was tucked under the main band at a later time. I mentioned this previously in the German - Austrian thread.
 
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Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Perhaps even on Homburgs/Lords sometimes? Auction pic
View attachment 468567
This is as expected for a mourning band. Mourning bands are placed over the the original Band and not stitched which I mentioned in the German - Austrian thread. In this case the fabric band (could be a mourning band) was placed (in a uneven manner) behind the original band.
 
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Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik, BGH, "Aquila", Wool, 57 cm possibly WWI era. There is only one other BGH on the FL and it's also an "Aquila" Stiff Felt although I believe it's later. Luckily some of the paper label is still present. It's my feeling that BGH was the source of much of the early 1940s and earlier no company mark Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats.

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,240
Location
Central Texas
You keep teasing me with these great bowlers, Steve. I may have to put you on my vacation schedule this year so I can see your entire collection!

Max Förster "Marke Förster", Wool, 57 cm, 144 grams possibly 1930s. Max Förster Altenburg (Thüringen) was a major hat factory up to WWII. (Altenburg was a hat making center.) I only have one other Max Förster and it's a Wool Soft Felt so happy to have found this Stiff Felt. The seller of this Stiff Felt is located in Altenburg.

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Berlin - Gubener Hutfabrik, BGH, "Aquila", Wool, 57 cm possibly WWI era. There is only one other BGH on the FL and it's also an "Aquila" Stiff Felt although I believe it's later. Luckily some of the paper label is still present. It's my feeling that BGH was the source of much of the early 1940s and earlier no company mark Wool Stiff and Soft Felt Hats.

52610721141_14eca32a18_h.jpg


52611015079_68bfacb8e3_h.jpg


52610700602_f785c9207c_h.jpg


52597473586_acb919ac19_h.jpg


52597314744_0f66c99fab_h.jpg


52597468131_27bf485b03_h.jpg


52596991307_61c90a66ac_h.jpg
 
Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Lital Hutfabrik Wien, "Paris Grand Prix", Wool, 56 cm possibly late 1920s. I found this Stiff Felt for the Great Grand Daughters of the owner of Lital Hutfabrik Wien, Sigmund Lichtenthal. A very pleasing overall Form. The black Liner with Gold print is striking. The light gray Sweatband creates a interesting contrast. Very good condition with the original external size stamp. No paper label present.

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There is more info on Lital Hutfabrik Wien on my website.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/261-lital-hute-vienna/#comment-3269
 
Messages
16,240
Location
Nederland
Lital Hutfabrik Wien, "Paris Grand Prix", Wool, 56 cm possibly late 1920s. I found this Stiff Felt for the Great Grand Daughters of the owner of Lital Hutfabrik Wien, Sigmund Lichtenthal. A very pleasing overall Form. The black Liner with Gold print is striking. The light gray Sweatband creates a interesting contrast. Very good condition with the original external size stamp. No paper label present.

52626270587_ebd3e17f4c_h.jpg


52627264353_9da890fe8d_h.jpg


52627030944_7a8f04d0c4_h.jpg


52627253208_0c571c6b45_h.jpg


52627207420_c1aa54e950_h.jpg


52626774451_14004875a4_h.jpg


There is more info on Lital Hutfabrik Wien on my website.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/261-lital-hute-vienna/#comment-3269
Great looking hat with an outstanding liner. Super find, Steve.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,240
Location
Central Texas
Another beauty.

Lital Hutfabrik Wien, "Paris Grand Prix", Wool, 56 cm possibly late 1920s. I found this Stiff Felt for the Great Grand Daughters of the owner of Lital Hutfabrik Wien, Sigmund Lichtenthal. A very pleasing overall Form. The black Liner with Gold print is striking. The light gray Sweatband creates a interesting contrast. Very good condition with the original external size stamp. No paper label present.

52626270587_ebd3e17f4c_h.jpg


52627264353_9da890fe8d_h.jpg


52627030944_7a8f04d0c4_h.jpg


52627253208_0c571c6b45_h.jpg


52627207420_c1aa54e950_h.jpg


52626774451_14004875a4_h.jpg


There is more info on Lital Hutfabrik Wien on my website.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/261-lital-hute-vienna/#comment-3269
 
Messages
16,690
Location
Maryland
Rehfus & Cie. Kehl - Rhein "Paradox", FP 5, possibly late 1930s. I really like the form of this Stiff Felt and it's in great condition. Dense black Felt with a very nice smooth finish. According to the the seller this Stiff Felt belonged to a traveling classical musician that was born in 1882 and it was stored away in his travel trunk.

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,399
Location
Denmark
Rehfus & Cie. Kehl - Rhein "Paradox", FP 5, possibly late 1930s. I really like the form of this Stiff Felt and it's in great condition. Dense black Felt with a very nice smooth finish. According to the the seller this Stiff Felt belonged to a traveling classical musician that was born in 1882 and it was stored away in his travel trunk.

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52653217143_186d9a23b3_h.jpg


52653220028_23b9f13091_h.jpg


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Super find, Steve.

Flensburg is right on the border between Denmark and Germany. It used to be a part of Denmark and therefore a Danish town, but after the 1864 war between the two countries, it became a part of Germany.

In 1922, it almost became a part of Denmark again, but the citizens of the area Flensburg lies in voted for it to remain in Germany.

Wish I had more on the establishment your Bowler was sold in.
 

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