THE EAGLE HAS LANDED! Aero Stockman Review

[feltfan]

Thanks all. As for me, for now, I have ordered the standard halfbelt, in cordovan. I will be sure to post pictures of it when – in a terribly dragging five weeks' time – it arrives.

No sympathy for those of us waiting three months
for a jacket from someone else! And what's the
Langlitz wait these days? More than a year, isn't it?

A curious innovation from Aero (at least, I don't remember if from any of my past three jackets): I was asked whether I wanted a name tag. I said yes – it sounds discreet - although I later thought it would be a problem if I wanted to sell.

Sir Jacket

Depends on how famous you get in the interim.

 

[bobjones]

No sympathy for those of us waiting three months
for a jacket from someone else! And what's the
Langlitz wait these days? More than a year, isn't it?

Waiting 6-8 weeks for the Stockman was painful enough, but if it takes much more than that IMHO it might not be worth it. I would think that the company might be pulling a "Hermes," trying to maintain the hype/marketing and manufactured perceived "exclusivity."

I mean it takes less time to build a car, and I don't think you can honsetly say a car is simpler than a leather jacket...[huh]

 

[feltfan]

Waiting 6-8 weeks for the Stockman was painful enough, but if it takes much more than that IMHO it might not be worth it. I would think that the company might be pulling a "Hermes," trying to maintain the hype/marketing and manufactured perceived "exclusivity."

I mean it takes less time to build a car, and I don't think you can honsetly say a car is simpler than a leather jacket...[huh]

Cars are made on an assembly line, with a huge mechanical
infrastructure. Some leather jackets are made by one man
or with the desire to keep things small. In cases where the
available labor pool is intentionally kept small but word is out
on the quality of the product, I understand how things can
get backed up.

Then there's the special order, hand assembled, but not
custom cargo bicycle I once ordered that took a year and
a half to arrive. That's when you have to wonder. But I hear
that's not terribly uncommon in the bicycle world and have heard
speculation about the welding and paint fumes...

 

[Sir Jacket]

I suspect the way Aero operate is they try to stagger their production in order to keep their workers (all on proper salaries, not paid piecemeal, I believe) busy. Hence it would take at least a month for the jackets to arrive – and that is including what must be the fair few man hours that go into making each jacket. Can you imagine Aeros produced on a production line in Tianjin? I'd prefer not to.

To some extent the wait increases the eventual pleasure – as with so many of the good things in life.

SJ

 

[bobjones]

I suspect the way Aero operate is they try to stagger their production in order to keep their workers (all on proper salaries, not paid piecemeal, I believe) busy. Hence it would take at least a month for the jackets to arrive – and that is including what must be the fair few man hours that go into making each jacket. Can you imagine Aeros produced on a production line in Tianjin? I'd prefer not to.

To some extent the wait increases the eventual pleasure – as with so many of the good things in life.

SJ

Understood and agreed, especially since I view today's society to be of such short attention span and fashion driven. I just think that when you have to wait such a long period of time, seasons change and you then have to be prepared to order over the summer months so that it arrives months later when it gets cold. That's alot of invested time, esp since if the jacket doesn't fit, you are talking about alot of added costs in shipping possibly overseas and waiting weeks/months more to get the alterations made.

 

[univibe88]

Awesome jacket Bob! I am currently deciding between the Cheyenne, Stockman and Rallye - and deciding on color. Your posts have really helped!

 

[rjbaal]

Bob

What's the difference between the standard stitching and the "rollover" stitching?

 

[bobjones]

Awesome jacket Bob! I am currently deciding between the Cheyenne, Stockman and Rallye - and deciding on color. Your posts have really helped!

Hi Uni, sorry I didnt get to the post sooner, damn i-net connection was down for a few days.

Anyway, what you have to do is look at the difference in fit and features of each style. The Stockman is the slimmest fit of the 3, not that it is a slim-fitting jacket, its just that the Rallye and Cheyenne are meant to be very roomy, worn as overcoats, perhaps over a suit for instance. I preferred the slimmer fit of the Stockman, along with its patch front pockets.

All 3 have basically the same collar, and are available for all kinds of customization, i.e, hide, color, pockets and placement, and sizing. I also wanted a shorted length, not as long as a car coat to mid-thigh.

Bottom line, the biggest difference would be the overall fit, from there its like Mr. Potato Head, you can mix and match as you like. If stateside, call Mark, if on the continent, call Will. Both are incredibly knowledgeable and friendly, and VERY responsive and flexible to questions and requests.

 

[bobjones]

Bob

What's the difference between the standard stitching and the "rollover" stitching?

Hi RJB.

The difference is that with the standard stitching, the two pieces of hide are sown "side-by-side," and with the rollover, one hide piece is rolled at the edge, and then sewn over the top of the other piece.

Look at the stitching on the back seams at the "T" of this Rallye, where both the horizontal and vertical seams are sewn so that all pieces are "flush" (flat) next to each other (click the second picture of the back):

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=6477441&uid=142228

Compare that to the back on my Stockman, where the horizontal shoulder hide piece is rolled and then sewn over the 2 lower pieces, and the left piece is rolled over the right one.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_1641.jpg?t=1206927792

 

[univibe88]

I also wanted a shorted length, not as long as a car coat to mid-thigh.

Do you know which is the longest of the three?

 

[bobjones]

Do you know which is the longest of the three?

Will told me the Stockman was the longest, but I customized (i.e., reduced) the length to 31". You have pretty much total freedom to alter the sizing of the jackets, just try to take as accurate a set of measurements of your size as possible.

 

[Graemsay]

The correct way of doing rollover stitching is to put a couple of rows of stitching through the leather before folding it over, and putting the last (visible) row in.

The reason for doing this is that it protects the hidden seams from ultraviolet light, which can cause degradation in the threads. Also (I believe) the hidden seams are protected from general wear and tear. So the jacket retains its strength for longer, which is useful if it's going to be used as a protective garment.

 

[imported_Flaming_Groovy]

It seems PM'ing may be disabled on this forum. Anyway, here is the actual email sent to the artisans at Aero Leather:

Hi Will. I summarized everything in this email, so that you have a single piece of paper to hand to the Aero team. Based upon our discussion, the 44R Stockman is the most suitable choice, and as for the details, please:

1) use the "regular" brown front quarter heavy horsehide
2) use a cotton "grant" tartan plaid lining
3) do NOT include stormcuffs in the sleeves
4) include the "roll-over" stitching throughout
5) include an inside pocket over the right breast, cotton lined with leather trim if possible
6) ideal coat length would be about 31" from neck seam to bottom edge in back

The less boxy, slimmer fit of the Stockman works better for me, and if you think slimming the lower portion of the jacket to maintain a better fit would make sense based upon my personal measurements, I leave that up to you.

My measurements:

- 5' 10 1/2" height
- weight 185 lbs.
- 42" waist over naval
- 43" chest
- I wear a 44R suit off the rack and a 16 1/2" x 34" Brooks Brothers shirt



So that was what I sent over, and I got the Mona Lisa in response

By the way, which hide and color did your Veste come in? It seems to be fuller than the Stockman, but slimmer than a Cheyenne, could be wrong though. It's also a very attractive jacket, and I was torn between the two for some time. I went with the Stockman as I plan to get another leather jacket, something very lightweight to wear in warmer months.

Though the Stockman with the cotton lining is pretty light, I should add, and makes a perfect jacket for layering underneath. I guess the only type of really winter-ready leather jacket would be a shearling, perhaps? But I get warm easily and might be uncomfortable with the bulkiness of a shearling, so that probably won't be a good choice for me.

I agree with the list above, but maybe scallop pocket flaps with snap button closure....wil make the coat look more '40

 

[bobjones]

One item I have gone back and forth with is the handwarmer pockets. They are handy indeed, especially when I feel too lazy to bring gloves, but like the cleaner look and lines of my jacket without them. I'll have to decide this one before any more future purchases...

 

[PuLpO]

nice Jacket!!! show us more pls?

 

[bobjones]

nice Jacket!!! show us more pls?

Ask, and you shall receive:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2057.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2058.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2059.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2060.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2061.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2062.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2063.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2064.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2065.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2066.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2067.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll104/bobjones_aero/100_2069.jpg

 

[edqc]

i would like to know how heavy for a stockman in size 42 ? and is it a slim fit or a loose fit