They Might Have Got Rid of the Details But It's Still in the Details

[Matt Deckard]

To be obvious, it’s the wristwatch… at least that’s what advertisers tend to show, but what happened to all the cool men’s jewelry? All those little details that showed who you were, be it a fastidious fop or an on the ball details man. The wristwatch is one detail, yes, yet it’s not the first thing people see. In fact, it’s hard to see unless you are going out of your way to show it off. So here are a few other options when it comes to the man who doesn’t have the time to pull back his shirt sleeve every time he reaches out to shake hands.

THE COLLAR BAR

The collar bar was a common staple in a man’s dresser drawer - a piece of metal with a clip at either end. You would put your tie on, place the bar under the tie, clipping the ends to the collar points to give the tie a much needed lift. It could be gaudy and gold or subtle and silver, and it was a detail that accentuated personality along with wardrobe. They would look like swords, guns, anything, even a plain shiny bar, and when it was the right collar bar it didn’t look like you were wearing too much, it just looked like you were you.

THE TIE BAR

The tie bar was that thing that kept your tie from flapping in the wind or falling out of your jacket. It clipped your tie to your shirt. When you are on your way to Budapest fighting off that spy on the roof of a train, the last thing you need is your tie getting in the way. Once standard issue and seen on men throughout the office, now they are an obscure object that some notice a little too much if paired with modern ties… perhaps it’s because today’s ties just don’t take well to tie bars. They were for a time when ties were narrower and the materials were not as thick. Back then, ties could get caught up in the wind, but today’s ties are so thick that they are akin to wearing a piece of cardboard down the front of your chest.

THE WATCH CHAIN

The watch chain could be hung from the lapel button hole, falling into your chest pocket, connected to a belt loop with the chain leading to the pants pocket, or draped across your vest pockets in a myriad of manners. It was your connection to time and one of the staples in a man’s wardrobe that disappeared with the invention of the men’s wristwatch. Ads were all over magazines and jewelers carried any type of chain you could imagine, from ones that looked like steel cables to ones that looked like braided gold. Some men even went without the chain and opted for a simple shoestring. Nothing like having your wrist free and knowing your watch is securely fastened to some part of your suit. Train conductors had steel chains and bankers had gold. It was a status symbol more noticeable than any wristwatch could ever be.

THE SIGNET RING

The signet ring keeps you in the know when you are trying to determine if you are talking to an ally or an enemy. Crests of companies, regiments, clubs, societies, families, and fraternities, they have long been used to weed out those that did not belong and leave imprints in wax to seal messages. A subtle defining item that says loud and proud ‘I am a Freemason,’ and it doesn’t wear out like the silk-screened logo on a t-shirt. Whether you are a Knight Templar or an Eagle Scout, that emblem on your ring can someday get you that airline seat upgrade for which you’ve always been hoping.


All of the above are little details that can easily be forsaken, though should never be dismissed. Mixing and matching fabrics is nice when putting on a jacket and tie, but truly going the extra inch and adding the details is what makes the well dressed stand out from the dressed. There are men hunting for just the right wristwatch and there is no shame in having the right wristwatch, but it’s one thing that has to be pulled out to be displayed and once put back under the cuff, it’s something you have to brag about in order to give it attention. The items above are out in the open and say nothing about you other than that you truly do have style and don’t need to continuously adjust your tie in order to show it off.

For good measure... a pic of me wearing a trusty vintage collar bar

 

[kiwilrdg]

I think the impression that is left by the folks wearing "bling" jewelry has left a stale taste that has chased guys away from wearing jewelry as an accent to a suit.

Watches are still worn some but not usually for the horological value. Most watches today are so oversized that the women's watches ot today are bigger than many of my vintage men's watches and the mens watches of today would be a likely choice for when Flavor Flav decides to dress well.

 

[resortes805]

Judging by that pic, the ghost of Marc Chevalier agrees!

 

[nihil]

I often wear collar bars, tie pins and watch chains with my suits...But I guess I'm not the average Joe (or whatever Danish equivalent there is), when it comes to dressing, haha.

One thing I disagree with however, is the comment about the so-called 'modern ties'. Ties manufactured today as as diverse as ties manufactured 70 years ago. Back then, there was also a prevailing style that you was hard pressed to get around if you didn't fancy it. But there were many, many different manufacturers. Different materials, different cut, different details etc. Today, you can get ties that are as good or better than anything that were available 70 years ago, but they are exclusive (aka expensive), and not readily available at the local department store.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Thank you for the information and food for thought, Matt. Indeed, at least for me, I do have a "watch" for browns or grey, a "watch" for more formal attire, and a few for working. Tie tack and or bars are always in use, with matching cuff links, the collar bar is something I no longer use, as most of my shirts have a collar that I prefer to be held in position by some nice collar stays, and I appreciate that look over the look of a collar bar. There is however the "cummerbund" that is also left off the list of popular use, but I have several and will recall to use them when appropriate for the Tux when being worn. I no longer have a signet ring, but have one close enough being a U.S. Navy SEAL ring, hard to beat that when being worn. To add one thing also to the list you may have over looked, is socks. The general rule of thumb is, black socks for black or dark grey pants, black belt if use of a belt, lighter or white dress socks only for very light colored pants. Some socks being worn are flashy and striped like candy canes, not my style at all. I think what you say about detail is so very true, it can be one thing you would wear or another that just brings your appearance to the level you wanted to achieve. I recall a picture of Frank Sinatra wearing an argyle sweater, that was mostly red diamonds with a red and black trim background material with grey pleated trousers, gold watch, pinky ring, nice tie and some wingtip shoes. He looked as well dressed as if he was wearing a Tux. It was the match up and details, (as you call it) that made his look work.