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Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
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2,546
Location
Sweden
I think most of these brands will use EU sizing for their clothing. This isn't US size 42, so the sizing makes sense to me.

Never heard of Vanson using EU sizing for their jackets. And the size 40 tag is clearly visible in the product photos.
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,546
Location
Sweden
Most likely their measuring is just silly.
Here is another example from the same seller:
View attachment 575987
A size 42 jacket with 42 shoulders and 43 width? Maybe size 42EU = 32US in this case?
I can understand how width/chest/pit-to-pit can be measured poorly by going seam to seam, but how do you measure shoulder width wrongly? No idea.
Ask buyee support to contact the seller and measure again?

Really weird measurements. Could be EU measurements maybe but in the Vanson I posted the 40 size tag is clearly visible and I've never heard of Vanson making EU sized jackets.
Thanks! I didn't know buyee offered that service. I'll ask them to contact the seller.
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
526
Never heard of Vanson using EU sizing for their jackets. And the size 40 tag is clearly visible in the product photos.
Sorry, I wasn't referring to the Vanson you posted, I was referring to the Saint Laurent Paris example provided that uses EU sizing.

I don't recall of Vanson having specific JP sizing outside of their collaborations with Japanese brands like Junya Watanabe/eYe CDG or Edifice (although those may also be standard according to letter sizing?) I'm not sure, those have been sized as the Japanese "SS" which is terminology not used outside Asia I believe, we have "XS". Those do not use numbered chest sizing but I suspect the measurements so I suspect the measurements taken a little weird.

Sometimes if the seller is like a large shop with massive inventory, they won't bother responding or remeasuring though, but I had great responsiveness with smaller sellers or private sellers.
 

torfjord

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,546
Location
Sweden
Sorry, I wasn't referring to the Vanson you posted, I was referring to the Saint Laurent Paris example provided that uses EU sizing.

I don't recall of Vanson having specific JP sizing outside of their collaborations with Japanese brands like Junya Watanabe/eYe CDG or Edifice (although those may also be standard according to letter sizing?) I'm not sure, those have been sized as the Japanese "SS" which is terminology not used outside Asia I believe, we have "XS". Those do not use numbered chest sizing but I suspect the measurements so I suspect the measurements taken a little weird.

Sometimes if the seller is like a large shop with massive inventory, they won't bother responding or remeasuring though, but I had great responsiveness with smaller sellers or private sellers.

Thanks mate!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,220
vantruck.jpg

The Japanese suit/wooden hanger is about 16.5" wide, and there is a slight overhang from the back so I would say this jacket has 18" shoulders measured (pulled) from the back. The seller is a 2nd hand store and they sometimes measure from the front, or they use a wooden ruler and take the inside seam width, which will measure a bit smaller than a soft tape or fully stretched flat.
The Vanson Maverick is slim fitting.
Price is a bit high at ¥60k. A brand new one from Vanson with their 10% discounts (which happens very often) is still under $500 for this jacket.
This jacket however looks like it's using their new deertan naked hide, not sure, just guessing from photo, that hide they want more money for it, it's also thinner and stretchier than their usual stuff.
The Maverick shows up quite often on the Japanese used market, just wait for one that's under ¥45k, older ones even less.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,498
This jacket however looks like it's using their new deertan naked hide, not sure, just guessing from photo, that hide they want more money for it, it's also thinner and stretchier than their usual stuff.
The Maverick shows up quite often on the Japanese used market, just wait for one that's under ¥45k, older ones even less.

Are you sure? Looks like comp weight to me.
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
965
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Thinking about picking this one up from Japan:
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g1120226428

If I understand correctly there is currently a 20% discount for Yahoo auctions on Buyee:
https://media.buyee.jp/lp/en/campaign-en/yauction-2401-en/

Meaning I would get it for ~250eu + ~50eu shipping + 80-100eu import tax = ~400eu total.

Basically my dream model from Vanson.
Really cool back yoke and shoulder gussets.
Talon Brass hardware.
Almost mint condition.
Mouton collar.

Measurements look pretty close to what I need. 1-2cm off here and there.
Although the sleeve length + shoulder width combination might make the sleeves a bit too long for me.
Usually 43 shoulders + 62 sleeves are perfect for me.
50 body with also would be better than 52.
62 length would be better as it has a bit of a back drop.
・Sleeve length: 64
・Shoulder width: 45
・Body width: 52 (from underarm to underarm)
・Length: 61 (from base of back collar) Hem)
・Hem width 41 (from the edge of the hem to the edge)

Thoughts from Vanson experts?
1704785274290.png


1704785285645.png
 

Mandarin

Practically Family
Messages
629
I have the same (except no fur collar) and it's my best fitting CHP.
You might never find the same deal again.
Go for it!
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
965
Location
Tartu, Estonia
@Mandarin What's the backdrop on yours? 1-2cm? Also what's the chest to waist to bottom proportion of yours?
My main concern is that the chest would be ok, the bottom hem would be ok, but the waist would be too wide. I need the back to taper quickly to the waist and then stay more or less the same from the waist to the bottom hem.
1704790011594.png
 

Al 916

One Too Many
Messages
1,705
Location
GB
Thinking about picking this one up from Japan:
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/g1120226428

If I understand correctly there is currently a 20% discount for Yahoo auctions on Buyee:
https://media.buyee.jp/lp/en/campaign-en/yauction-2401-en/

Meaning I would get it for ~250eu + ~50eu shipping + 80-100eu import tax = ~400eu total.

Basically my dream model from Vanson.
Really cool back yoke and shoulder gussets.
Talon Brass hardware.
Almost mint condition.
Mouton collar.

Measurements look pretty close to what I need. 1-2cm off here and there.
Although the sleeve length + shoulder width combination might make the sleeves a bit too long for me.
Usually 43 shoulders + 62 sleeves are perfect for me.
50 body with also would be better than 52.
62 length would be better as it has a bit of a back drop.
・Sleeve length: 64
・Shoulder width: 45
・Body width: 52 (from underarm to underarm)
・Length: 61 (from base of back collar) Hem)
・Hem width 41 (from the edge of the hem to the edge)

Thoughts from Vanson experts?
View attachment 578393

View attachment 578394
No expert however Very Nice!

Have a look at this btw
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375175439760?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=dd8605bc85a54eccbc76445085e6a8d4&bu=43125018396&osub=-1~1&crd=20240108153601&segname=11051
Just posted it in Finds, your sort of size?
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
965
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Ok the seller responded that the waist is 46 laid flat, which means it will be like a bag on my waist. I'll skip it, not worth the 400eu gamble.
Hope someday I can order of find something that has laces up to the waist..
1704795042926.jpeg
 

Mandarin

Practically Family
Messages
629
Here are the figures on mine which is a size 38:
The backdrop is about 1 cm
PTP: 22" (56 cm)
Waist: 21,5" (54,5cm)
Hem: around 19,5" (49,5cm) with the laces totally undone. I cinch them half way to get to 18", but they can be tighter .
The great thing about this pattern is you can get the hem exactly as you want.
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
965
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Here's a bit of a Vanson visual dump.
Two Model B jackets, one in the Z150 leather (nickel hardware) and I assume the other one is in comp weight (brass hardware).
Both size 34.
The one with brass hardware is much older, more loved/used. Came from Japan. It is also 3cm shorter in length than the other one, which is great for me.
The most interesting thing is that the brass hardware one has narrower sleeves all throughout. So I guess similar to Aero Vanson does STF type sizing for Japan? Nickel one has ~20cm bicep while brass one has ~18cm bicep. Nickel one has ~18cm elbow while the brass one has ~16.5cm elbow.
And that's the biggest issue regarding fit - can't layer with the brass one - the sleeves are too tight. Bit of a bummer. Will either have to use it only in warmer weather or only use a wool vest for layering.
The fact that the quilted lining goes all the way down the sleeves does not help either.
The brass one also fits a bit wider in the waist, less form fitting.

Adding some leather comparison pics.
Brass one has heavier but much more pliable (fully broken in CW) leather. It's also more shiny and much less plasticky. The Z150 is a bit more grey, less shiny, drapes less (it has not been worn that much).
1704972301368.png

1704972387845.png

1704972404447.png


1704972432453.png


1704972452666.png


1704972470889.png


1704972486723.png
 

Bluechel

Practically Family
Messages
962

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,468
Location
Europe
Comparing how they fit.
I definitelly like how the brass one fits better. It feels better. Looks cooler.
Shame about the sleeve width.
Will most likely keep only the brass one, no point of keeping the nickel one just for the wider sleeves.
View attachment 578992

View attachment 578993

View attachment 578994

View attachment 578995

View attachment 578996

Thanks for this. Amazing differences in size and fit!

Agreed, that the brass one looks and fits much better,. Shame about the narrow sleeves. I have the same issue in an Aero BR (only with one out of several I have had over time), and it ruins it a bit for me.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,490
Location
California
This jacket however looks like it's using their new deertan naked hide, not sure, just guessing from photo, that hide they want more money for it, it's also thinner and stretchier than their usual stuff.
Are you sure? Looks like comp weight to me.
I’m with Panda on this one. My C2RN from Butterscotch is made with the deer tanned cowhide and it looks very similar to the Maverick shown here.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,220
Here's a bit of a Vanson visual dump.
Two Model B jackets, one in the Z150 leather (nickel hardware) and I assume the other one is in comp weight (brass hardware).
Both size 34.
The one with brass hardware is much older, more loved/used. Came from Japan. It is also 3cm shorter in length than the other one, which is great for me.
The most interesting thing is that the brass hardware one has narrower sleeves all throughout. So I guess similar to Aero Vanson does STF type sizing for Japan? Nickel one has ~20cm bicep while brass one has ~18cm bicep. Nickel one has ~18cm elbow while the brass one has ~16.5cm elbow.
And that's the biggest issue regarding fit - can't layer with the brass one - the sleeves are too tight. Bit of a bummer. Will either have to use it only in warmer weather or only use a wool vest for layering.
The fact that the quilted lining goes all the way down the sleeves does not help either.
The brass one also fits a bit wider in the waist, less form fitting.

Adding some leather comparison pics.
Brass one has heavier but much more pliable (fully broken in CW) leather. It's also more shiny and much less plasticky. The Z150 is a bit more grey, less shiny, drapes less (it has not been worn that much).
View attachment 578985
View attachment 578986
View attachment 578987

View attachment 578988

View attachment 578989

View attachment 578990

View attachment 578991
The one with the brass is the better jacket for sure. I think the sleeves might have been a custom job when he replaced the main zip. It also has longer sleeve zip. Some Japanese repair/alteration guys can do a very good job and it's very common for them to take western jackets and slim it up after market for their custom fit. I also think that given enough time the bottom hem will relax and form to your shape, the previous owner was maybe packing more width there and stretched it out a bit. I've always thought the early 2000s Vansons were the better quality ones. My early 2000s Oxford was better in overall quality than my 2020 B. Congrats. The B block jackets is my favorite one from Vanson.
 

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