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Vanson Z150 vs. X150

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,273
anybody got a cheat sheet on the Vanson serial numbers as to what era they're from?

From the website info, some posts on here and some basic math, it seems like they were making about 5000 jackets a year and the serial numbers started in 1980 after they stopped using the white label.

Would be interesting to track. If anyone bought a jacket new and can confirm a year, we might be able to pinpoint with decent degree of accuracy with enough responses and come up with a general range.

I just bought via a Japanese site an Enfield with a 55kish number. So roughly speaking this should be early 90's. Should be here next few days. I'll post on here to see if there's any other giveaways.

The oldest one I've seen so far had a 10k number which would be early 80's. I mean I've seen some of the white labels too, but those don't have numbers from what I understand.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,273
ah, interesting. So my math might be wrong. I was going off something on the Vanson website where he said he was making about 100 jackets a week or 5000 a year. It seemed high when I read it, but had nothing else to reference.

But if from 1980 to 2020 it's only 79k, that's more like 2k jackets a year. I do know though, and this is where this might fall apart, is they number the customs differently. And I have no idea how much of their business is custom vs "regular".

But still, if we get enough range, we can still come up with some ideas. Won't be as mathematically predictable, but you can have a sense give or take a few years.

79k = 2018

add to the list if you know for sure what year it was made. (PS, I'm sure we could bug vanson to give us specific info on ID numbers, but they might think we're nuts LOL). Fun project anyway.

Edit: another thought. If someone knows on big changes, i.e. switched from talon zips, change in the logo, tag, etc. Good to note as well
 

TREEMAN

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,429
Location
USA
Thanks for those pics roadking.....Maybe others here can comment on whether it’s stamped or printed leather.
 
Last edited:

jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
421
Location
USA
Thanks for those pics roadking.....Maybe others here can comment on whether it’s stamped or printed leather.
Got my competition weight Oxford jacket 6 months ago and it looks the same as the pictures above. It definitely appears to be sanded down and has a type of finish applied to it. I don’t believe a “grain” is printed or embossed on it bc the hair follicle holes are larger than on full grain implying that it was sanded before finished, although I guess they can emboss the leather with larger follicle holes.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
ah, interesting. So my math might be wrong. I was going off something on the Vanson website where he said he was making about 100 jackets a week or 5000 a year. It seemed high when I read it, but had nothing else to reference.

But if from 1980 to 2020 it's only 79k, that's more like 2k jackets a year. I do know though, and this is where this might fall apart, is they number the customs differently. And I have no idea how much of their business is custom vs "regular".

But still, if we get enough range, we can still come up with some ideas. Won't be as mathematically predictable, but you can have a sense give or take a few years.

79k = 2018

add to the list if you know for sure what year it was made. (PS, I'm sure we could bug vanson to give us specific info on ID numbers, but they might think we're nuts LOL). Fun project anyway.

Edit: another thought. If someone knows on big changes, i.e. switched from talon zips, change in the logo, tag, etc. Good to note as well

You can just send the serial to Vanson and they will tell you when the jacket was made adn what leather was used.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,273
You can just send the serial to Vanson and they will tell you when the jacket was made adn what leather was used.
yeah, I know. But was hoping to have a cheat sheet so for future reference we don't have to ask with every jacket. Could just have a sense of ok 40k range is 1990-1993 range, 50k range is 2000-2005, etc. More of a rule of thumb.
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
Here you go TREE. Had to take the pics indoors. Sorry for the bad pics. The leather is even crappier in real life. "rubbery," printed, and dull.

View attachment 287242 View attachment 287243 View attachment 287244 View attachment 287245
It’s certainly different than the comp weight I’ve handled from them. Especially the newer stuff which was smooth as glass and stiff as a board. That said, as Seb stated, at least from the pics, I think it looks good. I don’t think it’s printed. Doesn’t look uniform enough. I don’t know. I’d like to see it and feel it in person.
 

roadking04

Practically Family
Messages
938
Location
The Rock 'n Roll Capital
It’s certainly different than the comp weight I’ve handled from them. Especially the newer stuff which was smooth as glass and stiff as a board. That said, as Seb stated, at least from the pics, I think it looks good. I don’t think it’s printed. Doesn’t look uniform enough. I don’t know. I’d like to see it and feel it in person.

I can't really capture how disappointing this leather really is in pics. It reminds me of thicker Hillside leather. It is heavy, but very rubbery/spongy. I believe it is printed/corrected because every square inch has grain. I think if it was natural, it would have some smooth areas and grain would pop out with time. I think amatuers would even notice it when compared to a quality hide. I hope Vanson gets a better supplier.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,474
Location
California
I admit I am not leather connoisseur - but I don't have a problem with the look of this hide.
It’s certainly different than the comp weight I’ve handled from them. Especially the newer stuff which was smooth as glass and stiff as a board. That said, as Seb stated, at least from the pics, I think it looks good.
I have a Comp. weight Chopper that I bought new last year. The leather is just fine as far as I’m concerned. I have another comp. weight Vanson that is six or seven years old and the leather is definitely nicer, but I am still happy with the newer stuff.
This is only my opinion though. @roadking04 Im sorry you are not happy with your jacket, hopefully it will get nicer with wear.
 

roadking04

Practically Family
Messages
938
Location
The Rock 'n Roll Capital
Im sorry you are not happy with your jacket, hopefully it will get nicer with wear.

No worries El Marro. I have a jacket on order with JL. I hope the hide is half as good as Ton's new acquisition. I am giving the jacket to my brother, he is a jacket newbie. lol. Anyone on this forum would notice the inferior quality of the hide if they were to handle it. I am actually thinking about a model E in one of those house leathers Thurston stocks. Your chopper looks much better.
 
Messages
17,106
Location
Chicago
I was kicking around the idea of an Oxford in comp weight. I really like that model as the collar is more to my liking than the Enfield. Maybe smarter to go with the Z or X but I’ve had both those and preferred the (old) comp weight...
I love the Oxford for a daily driver. Would want the quilted liner over the rayon though.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,474
Location
California
I was kicking around the idea of an Oxford in comp weight. I really like that model as the collar is more to my liking than the Enfield. Maybe smarter to go with the Z or X but I’ve had both those and preferred the (old) comp weight...
I love the Oxford for a daily driver. Would want the quilted liner over the rayon though.
X150 and you won’t regret it!
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
X150 and you won’t regret it!
Just check with Constantine before you have anything in mind. It was only a month or two ago I emailed them and they were still trying to nail down a new permanent tannery. They said they had lots of designs already made and leather sitting around but to expect delays due to Covid and the closure of their new tannery. So Vanson usually has super fast turn around times compared to a lot of other makers, this one you may want to check on.
 
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TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
905
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Currently I have the unique opportunity (until I manage to sell the chopper) of having both Z150 and X150 at hand.
The chopper has X150, the Model B has Z150.
Sure, it would be much better if both leathers were more or less worn for the same amount and that both would be recently conditioned, but I think this will still give a nice idea of how they differ visually.
In terms of feel the Z150 is definitely a thinner / lighter / more "mid-weight" leather.
So here is my small contribution to the TFL knowledge base : Vanson Z150 and X150 side by side.

Part 1: Z150 on top, X150 on the bottom.
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1698920910468.png


1698920939662.png
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,130
I really like the X150 leather. I hope they bring it back, especially at their current (raised) price points. My X150 chopper was too big for me but it was the nicest Vanson jacket I've had. Closest thing to CXL, just as good and maybe better than their old horsehide too. The waxy top coat gives it a much more premium feeling than the rest of their leathers.
 

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