VELOUR, PRECISELY, AND OTHER FINISHES

[Visigoth]

Greetings, fedora friends. As I get increasingly caught up in hat arcana, I'm wondering about finishes. I take it the "velour" finish is actually different from the long-haired finish I see on, for instance, my early seventies Borsalino. Am I right? And what to you call this latter finish, where the hairs are longish, and all brushed in one direction? (They're not THAT long -- I've seen furrier hats. This is subtle. But the directional hair is definitely more prominent than I've seen on many felt lids.)

 

[couch]

Velour: directional hair, or short velvet-like nap?

Gents,

I recently won this Borsalino

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8273704223

carrying the grade designation "marque grand luxe" and XXXXXX. Presumably it's from the early 60s, give or take a few years.

As the picture vaguely shows, the finish on the felt has fibers perpendicular to the hat body--just like velvet, but more velvety and even-textured than any real velvet I've ever seen. Like velvet, it absorbs light and darkens when looking straight down on it, and has a lighter sheen when viewed obliquely. I would have thought that this was a "velour" finish. Elsewhere on this site, however, I've seen the velour designation used to refer to a longer-haired nap brushed flat in a distinctly directional swirl. Can someone clarify what the correct use of "velour" is, in describing a hat finish, and (if not velour) what mine should be called? I'd also love to know how this kind of finish was achieved. It is positively decadent to the touch. Thanks for any insight on this issue and anything other aspect of the hat that strikes you as interesting.

 

[jamespowers]

Gents,

I recently won this Borsalino

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8273704223

carrying the grade designation "marque grand luxe" and XXXXXX. Presumably it's from the early 60s, give or take a few years.

As the picture vaguely shows, the finish on the felt has fibers perpendicular to the hat body--just like velvet, but more velvety and even-textured than any real velvet I've ever seen. Like velvet, it absorbs light and darkens when looking straight down on it, and has a lighter sheen when viewed obliquely. I would have thought that this was a "velour" finish. Elsewhere on this site, however, I've seen the velour designation used to refer to a longer-haired nap brushed flat in a distinctly directional swirl. Can someone clarify what the correct use of "velour" is, in describing a hat finish, and (if not velour) what mine should be called? I'd also love to know how this kind of finish was achieved. It is positively decadent to the touch. Thanks for any insight on this issue and anything other aspect of the hat that strikes you as interesting.

Wow! You found yourself a Borsalino travel hat and a nice one at that. I would call it a velour finish as you describe it. There are many designations as to this type of finish though. They were called Kitten Finish by Resistol, Doeskin Finish by Knox and probably many others I cannot recall now. It is a nice soft finish and your travel hat is necessarily lightweight so that it can be rolled and stored. The sweatband is also very thin and soft if I am not mistaken.
I have only seen a few of these up close. They are nice hats but never to be found in my size.
The other finish you refer to is likely a plush. The hairs are evenly long all over the body. They have short plushes and long haired plushes but they are all plush finishes as far as I am concerned. It is just a matter of degree. You can brush these in the correct direction and get the swirl pattern on the top of the hat. Beaver tophats have this feature as well. Remember counterclockwise on top and clockwise on the brim underside.

Regards,

J

 

[couch]

Thanks, J!

Will a hat with this velour or doeskin finish respond well to steam as other finishes do? This one has obviously been stored rolled for a long time and the nap is a bit flattened in spots. The brim is a bit wavy in places for the same reason. The sweat band is quite thin and pliable as you suspect, and has a few ripples set in it from rolled storage. I expect storing it on a form would help stretch them out. Any suggestions welcome.

 

[jamespowers]

Thanks, J!

Will a hat with this velour or doeskin finish respond well to steam as other finishes do? This one has obviously been stored rolled for a long time and the nap is a bit flattened in spots. The brim is a bit wavy in places for the same reason. The sweat band is quite thin and pliable as you suspect, and has a few ripples set in it from rolled storage. I expect storing it on a form would help stretch them out. Any suggestions welcome.

It should raise the nap if you steam it but brushing it should also raise the nap a bit. Combine both and that should do the job. You could store it on a form but most of the time just the heat from you wearing it will smooth it out. Give it a try. They are very flexable.

Regards,

J