Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

[herringbonekid]

thanks for the photos Benny. i'm undecided what to make with the fabric.

Twill weave, I imagine, like herringbone is?

there's no noticeable diagonal weave.

 

[Fastuni]

I think this "busy" fabric doesn't lend itself too well for a frilly sport-suit with too many feautures.
It would look best IMO as a simple 20-30's SB suit.

 

[herringbonekid]

Fastuni, i'm not sure that 'busy' would rule out a sports suit or jacket for me.

however, when we get into the smoother finish, pinstripe worsteds i can never see them with patch pockets. if i can picture a fabric with patch pockets it's good for a sports jacket.
if not, then i think it should get the 'sleek' treatment.

this one, i can't see with patch pockets.

 

[Fastuni]

You are right - of course there are "busy" sports fabrics. I should have said "busy and smooth".

 

[simonc]

I like upholstery levels of busy for sports jackets, with plain cloth trousers to contrast of course.

 

[herringbonekid]

i have a swatch of this and it's very nice.
19-20 oz 'soft grey twill' taken from their 1940s archive. called 'overcoat' weight but ignore that; it would make great odd trousers or jacket:

very similar to Baron's 1940s suit (slightly smaller scale weave):

 

[Two Types]

Oh yes! I would love a suit made from that cloth.

 

[SteveAS]

very similar to Baron's 1940s suit (slightly smaller scale weave):

Actually, that's now my suit. I bought it from Baron in the spring and I'm still waiting for weather cool enough to wear it here in northern California.

 

[Two Types]

Actually, that's now my suit.

You lucky man!

 

[SteveAS]

You lucky man!

Thank-you, sir. I agree and, with a little luck, it'll be cool enough to wear it in a month or two!

 

[fathergoose]

Some years ago, my brother-in-law bequeathed a closet full of 1980's Comme de Garçon suits to me. Single and double breasted, summer, fall and winter weights. The shoulders are wide, the fit is boxy but not baggy. I had a local Goth costumer nip and tuck them a bit. With a fedora, round eye glass frames and a proper vintage tie, they do a decent job of evoking if not exactly recreating the era. With suits currently slim cut and narrow trousered, I think it wouldn't be difficult to find similar suits going for a song at the Goodwill.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I saw someone on Facebook mention the comme de garcons suits. The jackets really looked good. Maybe they just made them for a season or two. I couldn't find more pics. Would you take some of yours?

 

[fathergoose]

Okay, Flat Foot. I'll do that.

 

[Hothir]

I have found a good source for tweeds.

http://www.martonmills.com/wharfedale.htm

They are a wholesale manufacturer but they sell cut lengths to anyone and all you have to do is give them a call to set up an account. I have ordered Scottish tartans from them for years and finally got some of their tweeds. It's nice heavy tweed and they have it in lots of colors and patterns (this collection isn't comprehensive of what they sell.)

 

[cookie]

These guys are classics too: https://www.nowness.com/story/molloy-sons-heritage-tweed

http://www.selectism.com/2012/09/24/beams-visit-molloy-sons-weaving-donegal-tweed-ireland/

http://molloyandsons.com/

Some versions: https://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyandsons/

 

[mactire]

They are a wholesale manufacturer but they sell cut lengths to anyone and all you have to do is give them a call to set up an account. I have ordered Scottish tartans from them for years and finally got some of their tweeds. It's nice heavy tweed and they have it in lots of colors and patterns (this collection isn't comprehensive of what they sell.)

Not only that but they are the only weaver of the classic wool/cotton boating blazer type cloth as well, if you want club colours or if you want to have a Henley style rigout.

 

[HimmelsBlau]

I am on the lookout for a heavy, preferably broad, brown/cream herringbone cloth to make an overcoat out of. The problem is, I am having issues in finding one. Most of the cloths I have found are around 24-26 oz in weight, and I'd like the classic heavyweight around 30 oz.

The closest one I have found is this one from Fox Brothers; http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/350/west-of-england-coating/fox-tonedale-herringbone

The colours are perfect, but I think it is a little too lightweight to make a double breasted overcoat out of, or what do you think?
I would also prefer a little broader herringbones.

So, I'm wondering if you might have any alternatives that I might consider for this?

I appreciate all replies!

 

[Two Types]

Contact H.E. Box to see what they have. They do have some very heavy fabrics (up to 32 oz).

 

[HimmelsBlau]

Contact H.E. Box to see what they have. They do have some very heavy fabrics (up to 32 oz).

Thanks, I did that yesterday but no reply yet.. we'll see. A pity you can not see any pictures of their fabrics on the web


Is there anybody else who has got any other ideas that might fit the bill here? What is your preferred overcoat weight? 25oz and upward?

This is truly a beautiful cloth and the colors are quite spot on, I don't think I would like it any darker, what do you say? http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/350/west-of-england-coating/fox-tonedale-herringbone

The problem is that it's 23-24oz.. but here is a picture of some of it made up into a coat http://instagram.com/p/uyDvUOQAZh/?modal=true

And as I said, any help is much appreciated.

 

[herringbonekid]

24oz is fine for a shorter coat such as a mackinaw or pea coat, but if you're talking about a full length Ulster type of winter coat then personally i wouldn't go below the 30-36 oz range.

p.s. it's worth contacting Fox Brothers at their other site (not the Merchant Fox one) as they claim to have some overcoat fabrics up to 1200 gram which is 42 oz:

http://www.foxflannel.com/finishes.php