Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

[Broccoli]

Where should I buy pocketing and waistband canvas for trousers? Linings as well seem very hard to find. Any recommendations?

 

[herringbonekid]

Brocolli, i get virtually all of my canvas and linings from the lining company .co.uk although i don't think they have anything specifically for waistbands.

 

[Broccoli]

Thanks a lot! I'm going to place an order right away. What canvas would you suggest for trousers? I think their heaviest, meant for overcoats could be good.

 

[herringbonekid]

Broccoli, that would be fine. i don't have one type of material for waistband use; i use whatever canvas or cotton offcuts i have that are a similar weight / feel to the trouser i'm making.
i've even used calico before.

 

[Papperskatt]

looks similar to 'Keeper's Tweed' (at least similar to the swatch i have).

or this from Bookster:

View attachment 35655

Keeper's tweed looks like it's exactly what I'm after. Thanks!

I can't seem to find anyone that sell the cloth, though, only jackets. Bookster's covert cloth at 600gsm is interesting. It's apparently made by Bateman Ogden but I can't find it on their website or anywhere else; can one buy fabric from Bookster?

 

[herringbonekid]

Papperskatt, i know Bookster used to sell fabric by the metre but i'm not sure what the situation is currently.

H.E. Box also do Keeper's Tweed, but their site isn't set up for online sales... you'd have to email for swatches.

 

[Papperskatt]

Thanks. I'll send an email to H.E. Box and Bookster.

 

[volvomeister13]

I've finally gotten around to taking pictures of the W. Bill linen line fabric swatches from Harrison's of Edinburgh. While the 12/13 oz. linens have a decent texture and a sort of sturdy stiffness pleasantly reminiscent of vintage fabric, I do wish they were just a bit heavier. They're decent, but upon comparison with my 1920's/30's linen trousers (which probably weigh in at 15/16 oz.) the difference is quite clear.

The main thing that worries me about these, however, is the degree that they're transparent. Granted, many fabrics are a bit translucent when you have a light behind them, but I haven't made up my mind on these linens. Feel free to have a look for yourselves....




Also, what do you fellows think of 12oz wool when it comes to suitings? I know a 1948 guide with them as a mid-weight baseline was mentioned earlier; and the Dormeuil Royal 12 fabrics boast some very cool designs, but I don't know about the weight.

 

[Dirk Wainscotting]

The traditional waistband canvas (for classic trousers before the 1970s) has always been the canvas that is now called 'French canvas' and currently used almost exclusively for collars. This is still available at trimming houses. However, in leaner times (like e.g. the second world war period) lots of replacements were used: layered Holland linen, wigan, jute...
The fact of the matter is that braced trousers don't need a stiff waistband because the same sort of waistband-rolling experienced in self-supporting trousers, and those with a belt, doesn't occur. The waistband interfacing is wide anyway, about 3 inches.

Cotton canvas is a decent replacement, but it can be limp. Unbleached calico which feels stiff at first with all the wax and impurities still in it, will feel softer after washing (which produces a dirty brown colour!). In general, French canvas has the benefit of being both light and firm, but any good medium weight of linen works.

 

[PeterB]

If anybody is looking for flannel, there is some 15 Oz vintage flannel on ebay right now, at Quality English Fabrics (Harrisons Burley) online store.

 

[herringbonekid]

for anyone who's wondered about the difference between 'worsted' and 'woollen' flannel:

'woollen' flannel (on the left) has a hairier surface and more of a 'melange' or mottled appearance. notice how the fuzzier surface means that the stripes are much less crisp.
'worsted' flannel (on the right) is more tightly woven, the surface is less (or not at all) mottled, and the weave is more visible.

'worsted' flannel is roughly half way between 'woollen' flannel and a pure 'worsted' cloth, but still has the peach-fuzz 'nap' that flannel suiting fabric has, and which differentiates it from a pure worsted.

 

[Rabbit]

1930s German fabric book

These are the sort of fabrics that an English tailor would have described by saying "it will give you good service". They're nothing special, just good quality but not more than that.

18 samples of tweed:

6 samples of woolens:

9 samples of worsteds (bottom row left and center are fresco):

6 samples of workwear fabrics (the three in the left column are trouser fabrics):

The two finely checked and flecked greyish-brownish tweeds are very typical of German fabrics, so are the worsteds with self-fabric pattern (the highly textured stripes).

 

[Fastuni]

Lovely!

 

[Patrick Hall]

Those are great swatches Nik. Thanks for posting them! I particularly love the teal herringbone tweed.

 

[Rabbit]

It's interesting that there is such an abundance of greens in that set. They were advertised as being particularly fashionable.

 

[Fastuni]

Is it from 1939?
Green was the fashion color of 1939, both in the US and Germany.

 

[Rabbit]

Oddly enough, there is no date on the box nor on the individual cards. The only way to date it would be to know when issue no. 124 of that tailor (or cloth merchant? see first collage) was published.

 

[herringbonekid]

They're nothing special, just good quality but not more than that.

i think they're better than that !

 

[Rabbit]

i think they're better than that !

Yeah, by the standards of today. They were marketed as inexpensive good quality, though. What a standard that was!

 

[lancs.patterson]

Greetings,

I wanted to ask the forum for recommendations of tailors who work with hand-woven fabrics in the USA to make suiting apparel. Currently, I've hired a hand weaver to weave 10 yards of a bold chalk stripe fabric made of superfine Australian Merino wool, and looking to have it made into a 3-piece double breasted vintage suit.

I'm looking to have this suit made in the 1930-40's drape style.

Regards,

Mr. Patterson