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What is the proper fit for leather loafers?

Lorinz

Familiar Face
Messages
68
I bought a pair of leather loafers today and need an opinion on the fit. I wear a size 9 1/2, but have uneven feet(right foot is slightly bigger than the left), which I have to take into account when sizing for shoes. In the store I tried on two pairs and had to size down; the size 8 1/2 felt really good(practically a perfect fit) and slid right on, it has a small heel slip however when arching my foot. I also tried a size 8, which felt snug(but not uncomfortably tight or anything, I can wiggle my toes in the toebox for instance), I'd say it felt like a firm handshake. I need to use a shoe horn to get the shoes on however; I also tried them on with a pair of thicker socks that I wear, and the right foot is noticeably uncomfortable with the toes feeling cramped.

I ended up buying the size 8, because the sales person said due to them being leather the material will stretch and break in, and it would be better for them to be start off more snug because of this. I also read around and saw some sites claiming you don't want heel slippage, due to the leather breaking in and causing the shoe to start to slide around later and be too loose of a fit. Was this correct and did I make the right choice getting the size 8 instead of the 8 1/2, or was the 8 1/2 actually the better fit for how a leather loafer should be when buying them? I don't really have experience with this type of shoe so input from people with more experience with them would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,866
I bought a pair of leather loafers today and need an opinion on the fit. I wear a size 9 1/2, but have uneven feet(right foot is slightly bigger than the left), which I have to take into account when sizing for shoes. In the store I tried on two pairs and had to size down; the size 8 1/2 felt really good(practically a perfect fit) and slid right on, it has a small heel slip however when arching my foot. I also tried a size 8, which felt snug(but not uncomfortably tight or anything, I can wiggle my toes in the toebox for instance), I'd say it felt like a firm handshake. I need to use a shoe horn to get the shoes on however; I also tried them on with a pair of thicker socks that I wear, and the right foot is noticeably uncomfortable with the toes feeling cramped.

I ended up buying the size 8, because the sales person said due to them being leather the material will stretch and break in, and it would be better for them to be start off more snug because of this. I also read around and saw some sites claiming you don't want heel slippage, due to the leather breaking in and causing the shoe to start to slide around later and be too loose of a fit. Was this correct and did I make the right choice getting the size 8 instead of the 8 1/2, or was the 8 1/2 actually the better fit for how a leather loafer should be when buying them? I don't really have experience with this type of shoe so input from people with more experience with them would be greatly appreciated.
Try style forum

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/how-should-a-brand-new-loafer-fit.667734/
 

mumpy

A-List Customer
Messages
400
I bought a pair of leather loafers today and need an opinion on the fit. I wear a size 9 1/2, but have uneven feet(right foot is slightly bigger than the left), which I have to take into account when sizing for shoes. In the store I tried on two pairs and had to size down; the size 8 1/2 felt really good(practically a perfect fit) and slid right on, it has a small heel slip however when arching my foot. I also tried a size 8, which felt snug(but not uncomfortably tight or anything, I can wiggle my toes in the toebox for instance), I'd say it felt like a firm handshake. I need to use a shoe horn to get the shoes on however; I also tried them on with a pair of thicker socks that I wear, and the right foot is noticeably uncomfortable with the toes feeling cramped.

I ended up buying the size 8, because the sales person said due to them being leather the material will stretch and break in, and it would be better for them to be start off more snug because of this. I also read around and saw some sites claiming you don't want heel slippage, due to the leather breaking in and causing the shoe to start to slide around later and be too loose of a fit. Was this correct and did I make the right choice getting the size 8 instead of the 8 1/2, or was the 8 1/2 actually the better fit for how a leather loafer should be when buying them? I don't really have experience with this type of shoe so input from people with more experience with them would be greatly appreciated.
You should try them on with the intended fit. Are you gonna use socks with these? If not, then it sounds like the right size. If yes, it does sound like a bit of a gamble. Has happened to me multiple times to think they will stretch enough to be comfortable and ended up selling every time.
 

mumpy

A-List Customer
Messages
400
Also try with very thin hidden slip on socks and see how it works if you like the look.
 

jchance

One of the Regulars
Messages
163
Location
Los Angeles
8 is the correct call. You don’t want a heel slip when buying brand new loafer—they stretch by 1/2 size to a full size.
 

Lorinz

Familiar Face
Messages
68
8 is the correct call. You don’t want a heel slip when buying brand new loafer—they stretch by 1/2 size to a full size.
Is a small heel slip a big issue? I've seen a few sources claim the heel bed adjusts or something, so a slight heel slip isn't as much of an issue. The problem I am noticing now is trying these on with thicker socks, the right shoe is now uncomfortably tight, with the toes feeling cramped. Which I worry could be a problem, since I wanted to be able to wear my thicker socks with these. Would 8 still be the right size then, or should I get the 8 1/2 instead even with that slight heel slippage?
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,866
The problem I am noticing now is trying these on with thicker socks, the right shoe is now uncomfortably tight, with the toes feeling cramped. Which I worry could be a problem, since I wanted to be able to wear my thicker socks with these. Would 8 still be the right size then, or should I get the 8 1/2 instead even with that slight heel slippage?
What you need to do is to get one thicker sock for your left foot and a thinner sock for your right foot. Get them in the same color and no one will notice. Problem solved, size 8 will be the right size.
 
Messages
17,167
Location
Chicago
I wouldn't wear a loafer if my life depended on it. I cut my fu**ing foot off first.
1710942184875.png

In facty I'd probably just saw myself off at the waist if I had to look down and see this garbage stuck to my feet.
 
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Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,465
Location
Europe
I always size to fit, including loafers. Sizing to future (expected) fit is not going to cut it for me. Yes, I am ok with some heel slip, which in my experience goes away with break-in (leather soles soften up and adapt to your specific motion-pattern when walking).
I use loafers a lot when I expect a lot of running around with taking off the shoes (airline travel being the prime expample), so I really don´t want to force my swollen feet into an undersized shoe.

Sizing down will MAYBE end up with some stretch. The normal size will USUALLY work, and if you are unsure you can always bridge half a size with a thin insole. Also, as @Marc mndt said, thicker or thinner socks can do some magic.

Off topic: for reasons unknown (to me, at least), some makers use upsized lasts on their loafers (Alden, Grenson), so you have to indeed size down 0,5-1.
 

mumpy

A-List Customer
Messages
400
I wouldn't wear a loafer if my life depended on it. I cut my fu**ing foot off first.
View attachment 600860
In facty I'd probably just saw myself off at the waist if I had to look down and see this garbage stuck to my feet.
Lol I hear you. Those things at the top look ridiculous (not sure what they are called).

I have these ones myself that I wear in the summer, quite like these.

IMG_0016.jpeg
 

Arnold

One of the Regulars
Messages
149
Location
Europe
What you need to do is to get one thicker sock for your left foot and a thinner sock for your right foot. Get them in the same color and no one will notice. Problem solved, size 8 will be the right size.
Not good advice. That amount of bulk you add between your foot and the upper, toebox and back of the heel you also add between your foot and the insole, changing the relative functional length of your leg. If you regularly do any meaningful amount of steps per day in that setup, I'm willing to bet it'll affect your gait in the long term.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
I have one pair of Bass Weejuns in one of their softer leathers (I think a Horween) that run a little loose on me. Heel cushions and some targeted hot water on the toe box helped, though I'm also going to experiment with a tongue pad. Next time I buy a pair like that, I'll opt for a half size down, as I've since found that particular model has a reputation for running a little large.

IME, loafers, much like engineer boots, can be a matter of finding the brand that fit right for your foot. One thing I find helps enormously in having a pair sit securely on the foot is where the vamp comes further up the top of the foot. I have a pair or two where the tongue comes about an inch further up the top of my foot than the slightly loose Weejuns, and it makes a significant difference.
 

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