Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Which denim should i get 14 oz or 220z

Saila

New in Town
Messages
25
Hey
I have thinking of getting a quality denim jacket which i can get all year round (iron heart's one). Which weight should would be better for me 14 oz or 22 oz
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
220 would be something…

What kind of denim jacket are you thinking of? Type 1, Type 2, Type 3 (often called a trucker jacket)?

IH's models across all three are a bit oddly proportioned, but if you give a note as to what you're looking for, I can point you to your best options for weight/wearability.
 

Saila

New in Town
Messages
25
I
220 would be something…

What kind of denim jacket are you thinking of? Type 1, Type 2, Type 3 (often called a trucker jacket)?

IH's models across all three are a bit oddly proportioned, but if you give a note as to what you're looking for, I can point you to your best options for weight/wearability.
Am looking for type 3 jacket and i want wear all year round. Would i miss something if i choose 14 oz over 22oz.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
Well, I don't think 14 would be missing anything–people buy heavier weight denim for feel, more than anything; it's not particularly a good cold weather cloth or something.

But I don't think Iron Heart is the best choice for it, both in terms of the jacket itself, and in terms of getting a bad deal. (Iron Heart UK controls international pricing, so outside Japan you pay at least double the item's usual price–except now it's even more than that because the JPY dropped in value.)

I really like Sugar Cane's truckers, especially since they make both a 1950s and 1960s style version so you can choose what style you like better. I love the TCB jackets as well for the same reason. Incredibly well made with super interesting 14 oz fabrics.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
14 oz is a respectable weight on a denim jacket, mall denim jacket is even under 10 oz , if you want all year wearability where you layer it or probably wear it as second layer under a leather jacket, then 14 oz would be the one, but if that denim jacket would be your center piece item that you're going to wear it hard and often then sure you can go 22 oz probably the collar of the jacket would stay popped up if you like to wear it that way, it probably would be too hot for some activities or some places with full sun exposure.
 

Saila

New in Town
Messages
25
From
14 oz is a respectable weight on a denim jacket, mall denim jacket is even under 10 oz , if you want all year wearability where you layer it or probably wear it as second layer under a leather jacket, then 14 oz would be the one, but if that denim jacket would be your center piece item that you're going to wear it hard and often then sure you can go 22 oz probably the collar of the jacket would stay popped up if you like to wear it that way, it probably would be too hot for some activities or some places with full sun exposure.
I think 14 oz is good for me. Thank you for your input
 

Saila

New in Town
Messages
25
One question i want to know about tellason type 3 also and i got brand new iH 14oz for 300 dollar is that expensive or fair price.
22 ends up having poor durability in a way because it rubs against itself and wears down.on
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,406
One question i want to know about tellason type 3 also and i got brand new iH 14oz for 300 dollar is that expensive or fair price.

300 seems about the standard UK-dictated Iron Heart price. IMO it's way overpriced for the jacket. If I'm going to be paying that much for a jacket, I want a jacket that is actually worth that much–not one that is only marked up because of a third party company that does it.

The Tellason is priced more like the Japanese companies are priced in Japan. I think that's more reasonable.
 

Saila

New in Town
Messages
25
Thanks a lot since i am new to this.i don't know what is normal and overpriced. Thank you for informing
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
Does Tellason make type 3 though? From what i see in internet they make their own interpretation of truckers but not really a type 3
 
Messages
16,463
A term "quality" in relation to denim is largely a marketing ploy and any article containing it should be dismissed as advertising.

Shop used & only mind there's no stretch in it. It's all down to just picking the shade of blue you like. Anything between 9 to 14 oz feels about the same. 20+ oz looks good, keeps the form but is ultimately a gimmick.

I wouldn't ever again pay over $20 for a jean jacket. There are literally hundreds of millions of Type-whatever's on the market & buying an expensive one has zero benefits. Iron Hearts makes a good jean jacket but so does Levi's & taking the weight out of the equation, I've yet to find a single benefit one has over the other. And I've paid more for one, several times over. Why pay $300+ plus for an IH 14oz jean jacket when you can thrift a Levi's for $12.99?

And also, don't fall for the Type scam. It's a jean jacket, the most iconic piece of wardrobe that exists. Paying more for a missing pocket won't make a significant contribution to your personality.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,485
Location
California
I have owned IH Type 3 jackets in both 14 and 22 oz denim. I prefer the 22 oz because I like the extra weight and heft of the jacket. While I am very happy with almost all of my purchases from IH I have to agree with @Aloysius and @Monitor that there are many other good options available for a lot less money. Check out Brave Star denim, very nice stuff at a much better price.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,821
Location
China
A term "quality" in relation to denim is largely a marketing ploy and any article containing it should be dismissed as advertising.

Shop used & only mind there's no stretch in it. It's all down to just picking the shade of blue you like. Anything between 9 to 14 oz feels about the same. 20+ oz looks good, keeps the form but is ultimately a gimmick.

I wouldn't ever again pay over $20 for a jean jacket. There are literally hundreds of millions of Type-whatever's on the market & buying an expensive one has zero benefits. Iron Hearts makes a good jean jacket but so does Levi's & taking the weight out of the equation, I've yet to find a single benefit one has over the other. And I've paid more for one, several times over. Why pay $300+ plus for an IH 14oz jean jacket when you can thrift a Levi's for $12.99?

And also, don't fall for the Type scam. It's a jean jacket, the most iconic piece of wardrobe that exists. Paying more for a missing pocket won't make a significant contribution to your personality.
Same as any other type of garment, the cut and design are personal choice. Some people do prefer the asymmetrical one pocket design. I wonder how that is a scam. As you said it, there are different shade of blue and that depends on the dye (indigo). Some cost more because of the indigo used. It is fine that you do not care for any of those but it does not mean others don't.
Coming back to the question posted. I agree that 14 oz good enough. People go for 22oz because they like to feel the weight. IMO people sometimes misconceive the term built like a tank to mean heavy weight. That weight = quality IMO is a marketing ploy feeding on people's misconception. But then again, that is a personal choice that some do prefer the feel of weight be it boots, watches or jacket.
 
Last edited:
Messages
16,463
Same as any other type of garment, the cut and design are personal choice. Some people do prefer the asymmetrical one pocket design. I wonder how that is a scam. As you said it, there are different shade of blue and that depends on the dye (indigo). Some cost more because of the indigo used. It is fine that you do not care for any of those but it does not mean others don't.
Coming back to the question posted. I agree that 14 oz good enough. People go for 22oz because they like to feel the weight. IMO people sometimes misconceive the term built like a tank to mean heavy weight. That weight = quality IMO is a marketing ploy feeding on people's misconception. But then again, that is a personal choice that some do prefer the feel of weight be it boots, watches or jacket.

Nah, you're right. Just that a few years back, nearly all of the makers who picked up the jean jacket, tried to make a big deal out of the fact that they're not making a Type-3 but instead a completely different jacket which in actuality was just a jean jacket that was just missing one pocket and I was just annoyed with it, is all. But yeah, that's on me.

Levi's made sooo many different Type-3's that I believe they've covered just about any cut there is so I still firmly believe they've got everyone covered. I've tried so many different high-end truckers while in London and each was really great because of the inherently fantastic design of the style but I failed to see the benefits of paying more.

The scaly Kapital (I think?) was fun and something different but I swear their J-101 was just a re-tagged Lee. Even the Carol Christian Poell over-dyed trucker was somewhat disappointing although the fabric was interesting.

Guy working in Son of Stag was really impressed with my 1970's Dickies, mistaking it for another brand though I forgot which. . .
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,273
Heavy denim is one of the most overrated things in denim. It's too hot in warm weather, but not actually warm when it's cold out. It's not a tally more durable (can be considered less durable actually) and it's uncomfortable and the fades look silly. 12-15oz is the sweet spot for denim imo. Far more versatile and less of a gimmick usually.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,216
Messages
3,031,253
Members
52,690
Latest member
biker uk
Top