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Which Tanker jacket?

moktabe

One of the Regulars
Messages
185
Location
UK
Bought myself an ATF Tanker jacket around 18 months ago, it's great for just knocking about, wearing to go to the shop or the gym etc but, with me being a picky old geezer, not up to scratch quality wise to wear when going out to town for example.

So looking at maybe buying a higher end version. Pike Bros only seem to do the 1st issue with the patch pockets whereas I prefer the 2nd issue pocket style.

Buzz Ricksons one looks ok but I find their site impossible to navigate for sizing etc and I can't even find the price! Have mailed them asking for sizing details and price so see if I get a mail back.

Another option is to dive in the deep end and get a Real McCoys version. Yup, pricier than the others however, having had 4 or 5 pieces from them before I think the quality is spot on so am poised with my finger over the 'add to basket button'.

Any thoughts on any of the above or any other manufacturers to look at?

TIA
 

Mickey.was.a.rat

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
Switzerland
Have you tried bronson ? I have their taxi driver jacket, it´s good Quality
BEA3C020-6FEF-4AA3-ABC2-94F99373FCD4.jpeg
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
Have you tried bronson ? I have their taxi driver jacket, it´s good Quality View attachment 403704

Nice! What's the liner? I have one of the Spearhead ones from about twelve years ago. It has the screen-correct, burgundy-quilted liner, which is a nice detail - most of the Bickle jackets I have seen have the standard wool. That said, it doesn't have the pockets quite as high up as they should be, as yours does - and I see the zip on the Bronson ends at the correct place (i.e.shy of the collar edge, rather that up to meet it). Looks great!

I need to dig mine out and wear it a bit, though I really need to get the "Bickle T" stencil on the back first...
 

Mickey.was.a.rat

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
Switzerland
Nice! What's the liner? I have one of the Spearhead ones from about twelve years ago. It has the screen-correct, burgundy-quilted liner, which is a nice detail - most of the Bickle jackets I have seen have the standard wool. That said, it doesn't have the pockets quite as high up as they should be, as yours does - and I see the zip on the Bronson ends at the correct place (i.e.shy of the collar edge, rather that up to meet it). Looks great!

I need to dig mine out and wear it a bit, though I really need to get the "Bickle T" stencil on the back first...

Inner is a blend of 70% wool, 30% polyester. Unfortunately, the stencil is not included in this version...
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,822
Location
China
I have three Japanese brand tanker jackets, a BR, a RM and a Pherrow's. I don't think there are much difference except the price. I would however pick RM over BR if it comes to say Deck Zip or a M-42 paratrooper jacket.
 

dmoser1978

One of the Regulars
Messages
103
Have you thought about WWII Impressions? I've been very happy with the quality of their tanker jacket.

 

moktabe

One of the Regulars
Messages
185
Location
UK
Went for the RM one in the end.

Reason being I'm quite picky on fit and at least the RM,if not ok, will only need to go back to London as opposed to the US.

Got a mail back from BR with details requested and price however, add in postage, import charges and VAT and it's about the same cost as a RM one.

Wary of ordering from the US after buying a Schott Naval Officers coat. Went by their sizing advice and fortunately it fits wonderfully. Cost inc post worked out to £499....then I got whacked with a £160 fee from FedEx. Although very happy with the coat if I'd seen it in a shop with a price tag of £659 it would have stayed there.

So, RM one on the way.

Thanks for the replies.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
Inner is a blend of 70% wool, 30% polyester. Unfortunately, the stencil is not included in this version...

I think I've only ever seen one that did have the stencil on it, maybe a RM model (at a scandalous price!). I don't know why so many others don't bother, unless they reckon it's too much bother and not many people want or notice that detail? My big problem has been figuring out what size the stencil should be, and finding somewhere to get it made. A lot of places on Etsy will do one, but they only offer them at 1" letters, whereas to my eye it looks like 1.5" would be proportionate.


Went for the RM one in the end.

Reason being I'm quite picky on fit and at least the RM,if not ok, will only need to go back to London as opposed to the US.

Got a mail back from BR with details requested and price however, add in postage, import charges and VAT and it's about the same cost as a RM one.

Wary of ordering from the US after buying a Schott Naval Officers coat. Went by their sizing advice and fortunately it fits wonderfully. Cost inc post worked out to £499....then I got whacked with a £160 fee from FedEx. Although very happy with the coat if I'd seen it in a shop with a price tag of £659 it would have stayed there.

So, RM one on the way.

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, we do get terribly gouged over here. Even before you pay tax, alas we're right back to the same old where for the UK price the dollar sign just switches to a pound sign and the numbers stay the same. Didn't matter back when we got two dollars to the pound so we could order from the US, pay the taxes, and still come out ahead, but with the historic lows of recent years, it's a real kick. There's definitely also a lot to be said for keeping the return hassle to a minimum if sizing might be an issue.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,822
Location
China
I think I've only ever seen one that did have the stencil on it, maybe a RM model (at a scandalous price!). I don't know why so many others don't bother, unless they reckon it's too much bother and not many people want or notice that detail? My big problem has been figuring out what size the stencil should be, and finding somewhere to get it made. A lot of places on Etsy will do one, but they only offer them at 1" letters, whereas to my eye it looks like 1.5" would be proportionate.




Yeah, we do get terribly gouged over here. Even before you pay tax, alas we're right back to the same old where for the UK price the dollar sign just switches to a pound sign and the numbers stay the same. Didn't matter back when we got two dollars to the pound so we could order from the US, pay the taxes, and still come out ahead, but with the historic lows of recent years, it's a real kick. There's definitely also a lot to be said for keeping the return hassle to a minimum if sizing might be an issue.
If you are talking about the Toys McCoy one with the stencils, the price is high but you have to factor in the licensing fees paid to the studio so he can get the actual jacket to copy. I think it is the only "official" clone available.
 

Zeltbahn

One of the Regulars
Messages
192
Location
Finland
I tried on the Buzz Rickson's tanker jacket last year. Runs true to size in my opinion with a nice room to layer under. Seemed like a great quality. WWII Impressions is also probably a good one, I have their M-41 jacket and it's very good.
 

Mickey.was.a.rat

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
Switzerland
If you are talking about the Toys McCoy one with the stencils, the price is high but you have to factor in the licensing fees paid to the studio so he can get the actual jacket to copy. I think it is the only "official" clone available.
I do not know where this surprising lining in red color come from...? is it red in the Taxi driver movie ?
 

Colin G

One Too Many
Messages
1,194
Location
Canada
I tried the RMC version at their shop and it was nice and on my list to buy when I get back to Japan next year. I can't recall if it ran a bit small or what but I do remember liking it very much,
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
If you are talking about the Toys McCoy one with the stencils, the price is high but you have to factor in the licensing fees paid to the studio so he can get the actual jacket to copy. I think it is the only "official" clone available.

Yes, that is true, to be fair - and from a search online it was coming out around GBP575, which isn't hugely far off the cost of the Buzz or other, similar options. I could imagine being tempted if I did find one in my size (I find a lot of the Japanese brands stop just shy of the more generous fit I might want in one of these, relative to my frame). It is very nice, and given the lining in particular deviates from milspec (adding greatly to the eternal "Is Travis a vet or a fantasist?" debate), I suspect it has a relatively limited audience.

I do not know where this surprising lining in red color come from...? is it red in the Taxi driver movie ?


The film version is clearly a more burgundy / wine colour:

1645554426284.png


It would be an odd detail to get wrong, though that said a lot can come down to lighting: I've never seen the original jacket other than in still from the film, so maybe the film lighting is unrepresentative of what it is really like at hand of they were working from an original, or possibly it's the photography with high flash in their studio of the replica that makes it look brighter than reality?
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,822
Location
China
Yes, that is true, to be fair - and from a search online it was coming out around GBP575, which isn't hugely far off the cost of the Buzz or other, similar options. I could imagine being tempted if I did find one in my size (I find a lot of the Japanese brands stop just shy of the more generous fit I might want in one of these, relative to my frame). It is very nice, and given the lining in particular deviates from milspec (adding greatly to the eternal "Is Travis a vet or a fantasist?" debate), I suspect it has a relatively limited audience.




The film version is clearly a more burgundy / wine colour:

View attachment 404347

It would be an odd detail to get wrong, though that said a lot can come down to lighting: I've never seen the original jacket other than in still from the film, so maybe the film lighting is unrepresentative of what it is really like at hand of they were working from an original, or possibly it's the photography with high flash in their studio of the replica that makes it look brighter than reality?
I posted 2 links. The one the studio sent TM is in the 2nd link. You can see how TM copied the real one.
 

Markoman

New in Town
Messages
14
Bought myself an ATF Tanker jacket around 18 months ago, it's great for just knocking about, wearing to go to the shop or the gym etc but, with me being a picky old geezer, not up to scratch quality wise to wear when going out to town for example.

So looking at maybe buying a higher end version. Pike Bros only seem to do the 1st issue with the patch pockets whereas I prefer the 2nd issue pocket style.

Buzz Ricksons one looks ok but I find their site impossible to navigate for sizing etc and I can't even find the price! Have mailed them asking for sizing details and price so see if I get a mail back.

Another option is to dive in the deep end and get a Real McCoys version. Yup, pricier than the others however, having had 4 or 5 pieces from them before I think the quality is spot on so am poised with my finger over the 'add to basket button'.

Any thoughts on any of the above or any other manufacturers to look at?

TIA
I have the Buzz Rickson's 2nd model tanker.
Fits well, but be aware that the pockets are higher up on the jacket than you might be used to;
makes it a little awkward if you want to keep your hands in them....unless you're sitting in a tank.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,789
Location
London, UK
I posted 2 links. The one the studio sent TM is in the 2nd link. You can see how TM copied the real one.

Ah! My language skills were insufficient to detect that's what was going on there. Seems the difference must be a lighting thing then.

I'd love one of those Toys jackets; I did do a lot of digging around on the web, but everything I could find seemed to suggest they were very limited edition and didn't come bigger than a 40" chest?


I have the Buzz Rickson's 2nd model tanker.
Fits well, but be aware that the pockets are higher up on the jacket than you might be used to;
makes it a little awkward if you want to keep your hands in them....unless you're sitting in a tank.

Good thing for those wanting accuracy: the big problem I tend to find is many of the cheaper alternative have a tendency to put them down to a "normal" jacket height, which is of course not the original spec. The other common inaccuracy is taking the zip all the way up to the top edge of the knit collar.
 

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