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Yep--ANOTHER Jacket ID Inquiry........

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
Ok --- I took a chance on this jacket. I know that these types of vintage Shearling Lined jackets often have issues where the sheepskin just disintegrates (and this one has a hole in it already). I also know shearling lining can complicate the sizing/fit. At any rate, I still bought this jacket because I like the style especially because it appears to be a Half Belt though it actually has a sorta Car Coat look on the front. The Seller was great about providing every measurement I threw at him. Which is worth mentioning because I also inquired with the same exact measurements request to another Seller this week and was literally told simply, "Sorry. I am not the Seller who can meet your needs." She flatly refused to even tell me if the jacket smelled like cigarettes. Whatever.......

Anyway, I have seen this style by different vintage makers before (and also the Aero Hercules has this look somewhat) but I have been unable to put my finger on who may have made this unlabeled jacket. There are a few variations that look like this but either have differently curved piping, or the slant chest pockets are slanted in the opposite direction, or are actually a Car Coat etc. I am admittedly jumping the gun a bit because I have not received the jacket yet and so I am providing some photos from the listing. The main zipper is an old Conmar.

Anyone recognize this jacket?? Any info would be, as always, greatly appreciated.

Here it is:

1688081107849.png

1688081139172.png

1688081183800.png

1688081250976.png

1688081288826.png

1688081366508.png



All theories Welcome!!!!! Thanks boys!!!!!
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
I would think a catalog jacket from the 50s. Penney's had green liners. Not sure if they had an equivalent to the Fieldmaster line...Looks so cool!
Yeah agreed. I tried combing the Sears/MW threads that @tmitchell59 started up and looked at many catalog postings from him and other members but I haven't found the match yet. I really like the look of it and its like 26" long max with a 23-24" pit to pit. It could be from Penny's!!
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
It's a Spiegel...or really close by the same maker.
https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/01/12/spiegel-front-quarter-horsehide-leather-jacket/
The knits could be replacements.
I think you've cracked the case man!!!!!!!!!! The outline of the label that is missing looks like the size and shape of a Spiegel label. Sears, MW, and Penny's all use the taller rectangle labels. The Spiegel's some have a shorter rectangle label. Strong clues here...... see the photo with the label outline below. Note the short rectangle shape much like the one in your post.

1688084757792.png
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
Yessir!!!!!!!!! I was just diving deep looking for Spiegel Catalog photos........... Not finding much. I had known about Spiegel growing up but had sorta lost track of them. I am seeing catalogs dating back to 1928 and I just read that they actually ceased operations very recently in 2019-20.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,136
Location
claremont california
Your jacket is a solid survivor. Love it. Spiegel made an excellent jacket in the '80s. Back in the 80's leather jackets were in big time. Many find samples were made in Korea.
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
Please keep an eye on the zipper's teeth. They need a little straightening out.
Please keep an eye on the zipper's teeth. They need a little straightening out.
@photo2u Yeah the zippers are not perfect. One of the chest pulls is missing too. Not sure if its just the pull missing or the slide itself so I'm not sure about the extent of the zipper work this one will need. I may well need your guidance on this one to get the zippers right. I KNOW you know your zippers G!!!!!!!!!!!

I bought this one because I don't really see this same type of design in a normal Half Belt often. Typically this same front pattern would be on a Car Coat or as some are calling them a "Long Half Belt". I think this pattern is definitely an older style the makers started to get away from and perhaps was just a lazy design in the first place where they didn't have to do anything except shorten the jacket from the Car Coat length.

Either way, unique, true vintage half belts in our size range in reasonable condition don't seem to come around as much as they used to when I started in this hobby. Between the Loungers and the Japanese it seems like maybe we are over hunting these into extinction!!!!
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,136
Location
claremont california
@photo2u Yeah the zippers are not perfect. One of the chest pulls is missing too. Not sure if its just the pull missing or the slide itself so I'm not sure about the extent of the zipper work this one will need. I may well need your guidance on this one to get the zippers right. I KNOW you know your zippers G!!!!!!!!!!!

I bought this one because I don't really see this same type of design in a normal Half Belt often. Typically this same front pattern would be on a Car Coat or as some are calling them a "Long Half Belt". I think this pattern is definitely an older style the makers started to get away from and perhaps was just a lazy design in the first place where they didn't have to do anything except shorten the jacket from the Car Coat length.

Either way, unique, true vintage half belts in our size range in reasonable condition don't seem to come around as much as they used to when I started in this hobby. Between the Loungers and the Japanese it seems like maybe we are over hunting these into extinction!!!!

I can help you with the zipper friend. Just pm me. You know, I love that design. I have a repro of the late 20's movie jacket worn by Clooney. his had a cool brass belt buckle that was one of the focal points of the jacket. Back in the day, HD sold many car coat-style jackets in their early 30's catalog.

dda5dd519c36219dd6a12e0962fd42cd.jpg


This is the one I own.
s-l1600 (91).jpg
 
Last edited:

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
I can help you with the zipper friend. Just pm me. You know, I love that design. I have a repro of the late 20's movie jacket worn by Clooney. his had a cool brass belt buckle that was one of the focal points of the jacket. Back in the day, HD sold many car coat-style jackets in their early 30's catalog.

View attachment 529326

This is the one I own. View attachment 529328
Cool one man!!! Is this a Belstaff??? They seem to get all the cool movie guys wearing their stuff on screen. Before I learned about Half Belts, my first few vintage jackets were Car Coats. I have sold almost all of them off but I still have a few---a Brent, an Irvin Foster, and a Kurland. I like the Car Coats. I'll definitely get in touch with you when I start my zipper adventure on this one!!
 

AHP91

Practically Family
Messages
988
The old Spiegel I handled for a short while was simply awesome. Was a cross-zip though, and was much too big for me. I'm sure this one is high quality as well.
 
Messages
17,291
Location
Chicago
Very similar to the Herc I sent to Regius to repro!
IMG_1749.jpeg

I was watching that one too. The liner might need to scrapped for a nice nylon quilt, hard to say. I’m gun shy on shearling lined jackets. Once it dries out, it’s dead.
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,545
Very similar to the Herc I sent to Regius to repro!
View attachment 529508
I was watching that one too. The liner might need to scrapped for a nice nylon quilt, hard to say. I’m gun shy on shearling lined jackets. Once it dries out, it’s dead.
@ton312 I sought out and studied all your posts on your "Heartbreaker" jacket as a comp to this one but the chest pocket angles and the lower pocket flaps with more pronounced scalloping quickly told me they were not the same jacket Nonetheless THIS Jacket ^^^^^^^^^ has been the closes comparison I have been able to find --- mainly because it is also a true half belt with the Car Coat front features. There is another for sale on Etsy.

I have read your horror stories on the shearling lining and thought the same thing:--That the liner may well need replacing with quilted or even something thinner if it might improve the fit. The hole in the shearling IS also in a precarious spot near the neckline where ALL LINERS start to fail. But the hole is small and depending on how gently I treat it and the condition, I was hoping to not have to do a reline sooner than later.

I hope this apparent Spiegel cleans up half as nice as the HEARTBREAKER did!!!
 

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