Straw Types

RJR · Sep 26, 2015

Great examples.

Mason Rudesheim · Jun 3, 2016

I have been interested in hats for a while now and recently, while I have been looking at boaters that most of them have different weaves. I was wondering if these were different straws as well, similar to a montecristi looks different from a milan. I know there are many other straws that were used for hats, but what exactly is the difference between them?

ChicagoWayVito · Jun 4, 2016

I will attempt to answer some of your questions and obviously won't be able to address all types of straw.

Milans, real Milans are made from hand-braided wheat straw. It is braided into a plait which is a ribbon like string and are then sewn by a hatter into a hat body which can then be shaped. If you want a new Milan made like they used to make them then contact Art Fawcett at Vintage Silhouettes. In fact I just noticed that you are in Medford, OR which lucky for you is where Vintage Silhouettes is located. You should go into the shop, it will be expensive but worth it. Art is doing a hat for me now. Most new Milans are not made from wheat straw but of hemp, synthetic fibers, or a coarse straw. Optimo Hats has a good primer on Milan straw: http://optimo.com/newsletter/issue3/index.html

The Amish make straw hats in a similar fashion but they appear to be a much wider and coarser braid. See this blog for pictures: https://thecountrylifeinpictures.wordpress.com/category/amish-hat-maker/

Montecristi / Cuenca / Panamas
Montecristi and Cuenca are both cities in Ecuador that are likely the most well known areas for producing woven hats. Panamas are actually from Ecuador and can be from either city. These hats are actually not straw but leaves from the Carludovica palmate (toquilla palm). Unlike Milans they are not braided into a ribbon and then sewn together but they are braided directly into a hat body by several weavers. (I am skipping lots of details). A good primer on this is from Brent Blacks site: http://www.brentblack.com/pages/tour2_page_01.html (warning: there is 15 pages)

Polynesia
Many pacific island countries use a variety of leaves to make hats. Using materials such as Pandanus leaves or other palm leaves.

I hope this was helpful. Many others here will undoubtedly have more information. Esther Weis will undoubtedly have great information to offer if she sees this thread.

tropicalbob · Jun 4, 2016

Art has a sale going on right now on the Milans. I just received my new one today and I'm ecstatic (this is my second VS Milan). These are my all-time favorite straws. Jeez, if you're in Medford I'd say you owe yourself a visit. Coming in a close second, though, are Peters Bros.' hemps. In fact, I just got another one of theirs and it's a beauty as well. I feel I'm having a very good month.

Mason Rudesheim · Jun 4, 2016

ChicagoWayVito said:
If you want a new Milan made like they used to make them then contact Art Fawcett at Vintage Silhouettes. In fact I just noticed that you are in Medford, OR which lucky for you is where Vintage Silhouettes is located. You should go into the shop, it will be expensive but worth it.

Yeah I guess I am lucky, I just got my first custom hat (a Montecristi) from him about a month ago as an early birthday present.

mayserwegener · Jun 4, 2016

Here you go! By the way this is not modern (probably 1930s) but some of the weaves you will see in old Boaters are not available today.

Mayser-Milz & Cie. "Exotenstumpen und Strohgeflechte Für Herren Sommerhüte / Exotic Straw Hoods and Straw Braids for Men's Summer Hats"

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...aids-for-mens-summer-hats.85313/#post-2054445

Larger Photos

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/237-mayser-milz-cie-exotenstumpen-und-strohgeflechte-für-herren-sommerhüte-exotic-straw-hoods-and-straw-braids-for-mens-summer-hats/

RJR · Jun 4, 2016

mayserwegener said:
Here you go! By the way this is not modern (probably 1930s) but some of the weaves you will see in old Boaters are not available today.

Mayser-Milz & Cie. "Exotenstumpen und Strohgeflechte Für Herren Sommerhüte / Exotic Straw Hoods and Straw Braids for Men's Summer Hats"

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...aids-for-mens-summer-hats.85313/#post-2054445

Larger Photos

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/237-mayser-milz-cie-exotenstumpen-und-strohgeflechte-für-herren-sommerhüte-exotic-straw-hoods-and-straw-braids-for-mens-summer-hats/

Good information.

EstherWeis · Jun 4, 2016

Well, there are a lot of straw types out there.
A lot are already mentioned but I'll mention some more.

My favorite by far is the para buntal.
So perfect to wear in the summer.
Bit of a tougher cookie to block since they have so little stretch in the weave.

Then there's rami, also very nice.

I work a lot with para sisal straw for ladies.
It has a good amount of stretch and available in so many colors.
I like wearing these myself.
The straw is a bit thicker than on the buntal, so the weave is more noticeable.

There are also 2 tone panama's out there.

Florentine straw , like a boater or a milan straw it is stitched straw ribbon.
Very often in a golden color.

Straw ribbon for boaters; available in many ways. From natural straw to even wide plastic junk.

I personally don't like milan's much.
But that's just me.

TheDane · Jun 5, 2016

EstherWeis said:
Florentine straw , like a boater or a milan straw it is stitched straw ribbon.
Very often in a golden color.

Is "Florentine" a type of straw? Isn't it made from plastic or plastic coated paper?

EstherWeis · Jun 5, 2016

TheDane said:
Is "Florentine" a type of straw? Isn't it made from plastic or plastic coated paper?

Yeah, it's leghorn from Italy.
I haven't come across a plastic or paper version.
Then again, I don't go looking for them.

The florentine's I've used are beautiful golden pre-stitched leghorn straw capelines.

TheDane · Jun 5, 2016

Okay, nice to get that corrected. Thanks

EstherWeis · Jun 5, 2016

Varsågod.

I don't know any Danish, but from my time in Stockholm I remember you guys pretty much can understand each other.

GHT · Jun 5, 2016

My cricket hat, as I like to call it, is a Christy's Handmade Ecuador Panama M 57 Optimo Medium Wide Brim Sun Hat. What type of straw is used for this hat, and, unlike a lot of straw hats, there's no minute holes where the straws join up. Is that unique to this type of hat?

TheDane · Jun 6, 2016

EstherWeis said:
Varsågod.

I don't know any Danish, but from my time in Stockholm I remember you guys pretty much can understand each other.

Wow! Well done, Esther!

Yes, Swedes and Danes understand each other pretty well. CPH is very close to Malmö (Swedish town), so as a child I could watch the one Danish TV-channel plus a Swedish one ... sheer luxury! And I learned a lot of the language

I actually understand some Dutch too, though I don't speak a word. Many of our words have common ancestry - and knowledge of German and English seems to help too

mayserwegener · Jun 6, 2016

GHT said:
My cricket hat, as I like to call it, is a Christy's Handmade Ecuador Panama M 57 Optimo Medium Wide Brim Sun Hat. What type of straw is used for this hat, and, unlike a lot of straw hats, there's no minute holes where the straws join up. Is that unique to this type of hat?
View attachment 51031

Can you provide close up photos of the the weave? It's best to take the photo of the top of the crown. If it's a Panama it's most likely a Cuenca weave made from Toquilla (Carludovica palmata) straw.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1550/24908913946_ac05778e9b_h.jpg

EstherWeis · Jun 6, 2016

TheDane said:
Wow! Well done, Esther!

Yes, Swedes and Danes understand each other pretty well. CPH is very close to Malmö (Swedish town), so as a child I could watch the one Danish TV-channel plus a Swedish one ... sheer luxury! And I learned a lot of the language

I actually understand some Dutch too, though I don't speak a word. Many of our words have common ancestry - and knowledge of German and English seems to help too

Yeah, I liked the swedish language.
It is very similar like you said.
I could read the paper and make out 75% without any difficulties.

I can still speak the basics but you lose it when you don't speak it with anyone.
I could never pull off 777 and sjuksköterska though.
That sound is very difficult for us to pull off.

Now back on to straw!

moehawk · Jun 28, 2016

Hey all!
Here's a straw question!
I bought a lot of 3 ladies hats on ebay because one was an unblocked natural Ecuador body of nice proportions. The other two, one purple paper and a red straw I was planning on giving to my grandma. They arrived today, and when I saw the red straw I was puzzled as to what variety it is. I was wondering if anyone recognizes the weave pattern as being unique to a straw type. Here's pics.

The crown backlit:

The only tag:

Any thougts?

EstherWeis · Jun 28, 2016

moehawk said:
Hey all!
Here's a straw question!
I bought a lot of 3 ladies hats on ebay because one was an unblocked natural Ecuador body of nice proportions. The other two, one purple paper and a red straw I was planning on giving to my grandma. They arrived today, and when I saw the red straw I was puzzled as to what variety it is. I was wondering if anyone recognizes the weave pattern as being unique to a straw type. Here's pics.

The crown backlit:

The only tag:

Any thougts?

Could be a twisted straw.They mostly are wheat but come in paper as well.
Can be a sisal has well. I have seen sisal's like that.
Is it stretchy ?

moehawk · Jun 28, 2016

Good to know! I believe it is a straw and not paper. It has the feel and smell. I forgot to mention that it's super lightweight, 5" crown and 2 1/2" brim with trim and brim wire only 52 grams. Too bad it's asymmetrial and bright red or I'd try to convert it! Oh well, Grandma will like it.

M Hatman · Feb 2, 2017

Bump.....and we still need more pictures and examples of the complex subject.
Cheers,
m

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