1920s and 1930s-style leather jackets

[Creeping Past]

From the proprietor of the Vintage Leather Jackets blog, who's also an FL member: a great-looking 1920s-style jacket with a ton of style.

And some more..

He says they're 20s and 30s and, knowing no different, I defer to his superior knowledge.

Open question to FL members more attuned to these things: How's he doing?

Apologies if this link's been posted previously. I don't want to post images as they're the property of the jacket's creator.

CP

 

[tonypaj]

I don't much care about the shawl collar, otherwise it looks OK. There clearly seems to be interest in these jackets, though.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

It looks to me that he is doing very well. The jacket looks well made...and has features of that early period. IMO..he should definately keep up the good work.
HD

 

[jack miranda]

Amen.

:eusa_clap

 

[Fletch]

They look great!

I have to be skeptical about his claims re horsehide however. Tanning HH is becoming a virtual monopoly - there's not enough supply or enough demand to do it using vintage materials or a "greener" process.

Then again, you could always charge, like, $4k per jacket...[huh]

 

[Baron Kurtz]

David is extremely knowledgeable re: vintage leather. The jackets he's producing bear features very similar to those seen on original jackets he's owned. I believe he also has a source for vintage grommet zippers.

As regards his hides. I suspect he's done more research than anyone here. Myself, i've done extensive research into sourcing goatskin (mostly for repairs), and the various tanneries vary so wildly in production techniques and tanning materials that it's important to know how the hides were tanned "in the day" to get the "most vintage-esque" hides. I know that David knows people who worked in tanning and processing "in the day" and has based his statements re: horsehide on what he has learned from those guys. Not enough demand for horsehide? You gotta be kidding me.

bk

 

[Seb Lucas]

So were there all that many jackets then that used zip up fronts? I thought buttons al la the A1 was the norm until the early 1930's. I love his work, by the way.

 

[Edward]

I don't much care about the shawl collar, otherwise it looks OK.

It's all subjective, really, but all notions of historical accuracy aside, I actually really like it as much because it's somethig different as anything else. It'd be interesting to hear a review from one of his customers once these go into production. Looks like a nice design to service a niche in thed market that neither Aero nor ELC cover.

 

[Fletch]

I know that David knows people who worked in tanning and processing "in the day" and has based his statements re: horsehide on what he has learned from those guys. Not enough demand for horsehide? You gotta be kidding me.

Well...for every niche market, there's always some producer who will tell you it's not worth meeting. (search term: hatco )

Maybe it's just that there isn't enough supply. There's serious, NIMBY-ist opposition in the US to any processing of horse carcasses, on the muzzy-headed principle that we shouldn't be offing Black Beauty for kitty food (when in reality it's old swaybacks who now have to ride the train for days to truly nasty abattoirs in Mexico). The activism led to the shutdown of the last 2 horse processors in North America, and a surplus of unwanted horses in the western states with no way to relieve it.

 

[H.Johnson]

There is a tannery in SW England that still does horsehide vegetable tanned with oak bark in a pit in the traditional way.

David's making-up is exemplary. Many makers today seem to be obsessed with getting the top-stitching as close to the edge of a piece as they can, he has clearly observed that this wasn't the case 80 years ago and has done a great job of top-stiching as it used to be done. I bet that, on closer examination, his sewing is in line (like John Chapman's) rather than being oblique.

It's the bobbin tension, of course. Small things make a big difference and its great to see people going to this sort of trouble.

 

[himelator]

Hmmm...where I am at

I just got back from a month away in Asia and Los Angeles where I did Rin Tanaka's Inspiration Show. Ive been working on my website and trying to work out the branding surrounding my jacket projects and what is economically viable.

Regarding horsehide..again I work with 5 tanneries that do horse...there is no shortage of them...there is a shortage of non abused horses because of the American No Slaughter law....people dump the horses for cheap on trains where they are fighting eachother in cramped spaces...the law results in the poor treatment due to shipping conditions....

Regarding design...I have spent 18 years researching leather, interviewing the people who tanned, cut and sewed jackets...and the various techniques used in making the jackets...its far more complex and sometimes more simple then one would think. I routinely consult with other makers including Mr. Chapman and share information regarding this topic. I hope that helps I will be updating my blog with my adventures...posting new interviews including one with the owners of Reed Sportswear. Im working on a book on the history of leather making but that is going very slowly. So check the blog once and a while and hopefully I will be more diligent. I appreciate the positive feedback and certainly pay attention to any negative feedback..and do appreciate any traffic I get from the Lounge...its nice to have a group of dedicated lovers of well made things....

Himel

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks, David.

 

[Creeping Past]

I appreciate the positive feedback and certainly pay attention to any negative feedback..and do appreciate any traffic I get from the Lounge...its nice to have a group of dedicated lovers of well made things....

Himel

Thanks for taking the time to comment. It means a lot that you get involved at this level.

I'm saving some money and looking forward to buying something...

Cheers,

CP

 

[himelator]

Jackets

Thanks for taking the time to comment. It means a lot that you get involved at this level.

I'm saving some money and looking forward to buying something...

Cheers,

CP

I am hoping that I have an economically viable project...To use the best materials, zippers, liners and techniques has driven the cost of my jackets to Real McCoy levels...Im trying to figure out a sustainable sales model

 

[Creeping Past]

I am hoping that I have an economically viable project...To use the best materials, zippers, liners and techniques has driven the cost of my jackets to Real McCoy levels...Im trying to figure out a sustainable sales model

I guess we're all hoping for that too. Good luck with the next stage.

 

[Papa M]

It's all subjective, really, but all notions of historical accuracy aside, I actually really like it as much because it's somethig different as anything else.

I too like that shawl collar. Those jackets are similar to the Menlo Cossack jacket that Levis LVC made a few years back. I paid £500 for the Levi's version but to be honest I think I'd rather have one of Himel's.

 

[himelator]

lvc

Im curious...how did it hold up...was it like a true jacket ( wears nicely stays stiff) or was it more of a fashion piece? Was it made in the usa or italy or was it made in China? I know the jacket they copied as my buddy sold it...but I cant imagine what the copy turned out like

dh

 

[Papa M]

Im curious...how did it hold up...was it like a true jacket ( wears nicely stays stiff) or was it more of a fashion piece? Was it made in the usa or italy or was it made in China? I know the jacket they copied as my buddy sold it...but I cant imagine what the copy turned out like

dh

It is Made in Turkey. I haven't worn it that much but it was already softened up from new. It has a lovely texture to the goatskin, and feels like a jacket that you've had for years.

It is unlined which makes it feel slightly clammy in hot weather. Other than that I love it.

 

[himelator]

It is Made in Turkey. I haven't worn it that much but it was already softened up from new. It has a lovely texture to the goatskin, and feels like a jacket that you've had for years.

It is unlined which makes it feel slightly clammy in hot weather. Other than that I love it.

Back to my problem..this explains the price of 500 bp...

 

[Papa M]

Back to my problem..this explains the price of 500 bp...

Do you mean that the £500 price tag reflects the work they had to put in to make it pre-stressed?

To me that is not a problem. Eastman, for example, do their Time Worn range which makes a jacket beautifully and instantly wearable without the months of stiffness.

It might not be entirely authentic, but it sure is practical.