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Eastman Leather Clothing Ostmann Luftwaffe Jacket Brown

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by HPA Rep, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Since the transition of this jacket style from Luftwaffe to the more politically correct Ostmann label, we've experienced a surge in sales for the brown horsehide version vs. black, which had previously held the lead as the favored color. Because of this transition in color preferences, we've stocked up more heavily this fall in brown than in any past years, thus I thought it would be a good idea to make this fact known and to provide detailed fit pics and some background to the changes.

    For those unfamiliar with the modification of this style, not a lot really changed. The shoulder span did become a bit more narrow, as did the chest circumference, but not enough for anyone to change size - I still wear a 40R in both old and new styles and we sell the same sizes to applicable body types no differently than before. The blouson style also became a bit less bloused in the back, while the lining is the same cozy moleskin, but the shade of blue became decidedly darker. And then there is, of course, the label change, which one can only hope proves less offensive than the previous label bearing the word Luftwaffe with the flying eagle sans swastika.

    I really don't know how many complaints ELC received about the label over the years, but as far as N. American sales went since the introduction of this style in 1990, I think I can recall one. Perhaps there was more to the label change, and it may have been more a preemptive move than anything else; whatever the case, we still get inquiries calling it Luftwaffe and we refer to it as the Ostmann Luftwaffe style.

    The horsehide employed is Eastman's usual superb stuff employed across their many styles, being fully vegetable-tanned and aniline dyed from one of the top tanneries in Italy. The leather weight is equal to that found on the standard "house" A-2 jackets, which is approximately 3 ounces.

    Please checkout the photos below. The jacket is a size 40R and my body details are as follows: chest 40", waist 30", height 5' 9" tall, weight 150 lbs., shirt-sleeve measure 33", and my build is lean and athletic.

    All sizes 38-48 are in stock in both black and brown:

    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
    sweetfights, nick123, SJC and 14 others like this.
  2. CBI

    CBI Practically Family

    love it, how tightly do you have the waist tabs pulled. Looks extremely trim in the waist
  3. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Thank you, CBI. I'm on the very last of four holes, but that's in a size 40 with my 30" waist, and definitely intending to keep air from going up inside. The span between each hole is about 1". This should fit the same people we sold the old style to in their respective sizes, thus a 48 remains viable to those with a 48" chest measure, and so on down the size scale.
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
  4. CBI

    CBI Practically Family

    thanks for the info.
  5. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    You are indeed most welcome, and thank you for the interest.
  6. nick123

    nick123 I'll Lock Up

    Charles, what is the current turnaround time on this jacket if I opted for an extra tall size?
  7. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    That would be a special order, Nick, so if we had the order by Mon. of next week with a deposit, Gary Eastman has quoted an approximate delivery between March - May 2018. I know, that's a long wait, but the way ELC is now operating regarding production of this sort of thing isn't what it once was. Please let me know if you need anything at all. Thank you.
    nick123 likes this.
  8. Stand By

    Stand By One Too Many

    It's nice to see the evolution of this jacket, Charles.
    My friend got one of the original jackets around 1989/1990 (if memory serves) as he was a big fan of the Battle of Britain movie and it looked just like the one seen well in that - but it was steer hide back then and was I never quite was a fan of it and never felt any pangs of jacket-envy over one.
    But then, (maybe 9/10 years ago?) I wandered into the ELC QM tent at RAF Duxford one fine September day and had travelled all the way from Canada to get a Star Sportswear A2 for myself - and I was amazed (after all the research I'd done) that it just didn't suit me! I hadn't bargained for that! So I went to look if anything else piqued my interest - and I saw the black Luftwaffe just like my friend's - but now it was HH! And it just leapt off the rack and said "Buy me! Buy me!" (always a good sign) and I tried it on and it was amazing, as was the fit! Gary said they were moving over to a more TimeWorn finish, so they just had a few left in that original style - so I grabbed it with no hesitation! And it has the lighter blue lining and Luftwaffe patch you mention.
    But this new version also appeals and it still has that classic, timelessly styled look. I even like the darker lining and the new label!
    But I'm glad I have what I have in mine as it's my semi-formal "dress" jacket as it can be dressed up with fine chinos and can pass muster at an office party - or down with jeans for the pub - in a way that an A2 cannot, so it's a bit more versatile - and is a warm jacket to boot!
    Someone once posted a thread that was something like "If you could only have one jacket ..." - and as much as I love all my USAF/USAAF and Irvin jackets, even though it isn't necessarily my favourite, I would have to vote for this jacket as I think it's the most versatile.
    Thanks for posting!
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
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  9. ton312

    ton312 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    The sleeve cuffs alone are insanely cool!
    HPA Rep likes this.
  10. bn1966

    bn1966 Call Me a Cab

    Have owned mine in black steer now for about 10 years...great for smart casual :)
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  11. Stand By

    Stand By One Too Many

    It’s amazing how it manages that, isn’t it?! I’d much rather wear that at an office function than a sports jacket or whatever. Pair it carefully with good shoes, shirt and trousers and you’re all set!
    HPA Rep, bn1966 and Thuggee like this.
  12. AeroFan_07

    AeroFan_07 One Too Many

    Charles, this is now at the top of my list for next year's jacket purchase. I just did a LW jacket and that ate up the rest of the funds for this season. I'll sure be in touch. Just a question, what is typical sleeve length and torso length of a Size 44 model? I tend to do best if the sleeves get past 26". Thanks - Randy
    HPA Rep likes this.
  13. Downunder G Man

    Downunder G Man Familiar Face

    I have two of the "original" Eastman Luftwaffe jackets , one from 1990 bought new in England, the second 4 years old ( bought "used" but barely worn )

    Both black , but the older one wore "brown" over all those years. Size 44 both jackets , but the younger one seems "bigger" ?

    Both have the same Luftwaffe Eagle label , I actually quite like it myself. I was under the impression both were HH leather.

    I do like the look of that Brown , that's a bit of a worry !
    HPA Rep likes this.
  14. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    DGM, late 1989-early 1990 was the premier of the ELC Luft. jacket (I got mine Feb. 1990) and these were all cowhide at the time. I cannot say exactly when they became HH, but it was much more recently, though back when ELC took custom orders, you could request HH. Brown was not an available option until more recent years, but ELC would make one if requested; I know we offered brown on a custom basis since the mid-1990's and my second Luft. jacket from spring 1997 was made from the same brown goatskin as the USN M-422A and outfitted with the small, flap-style pockets at the bottom as found on the Hartmann and outfitted with vintage Luft. glass buttons in blue-grey.

    And it's my job to induce your worry to a frenzied state! ;-)
  15. willyto

    willyto Practically Family

    For some reason I thought these also came in capeskin, Love them too.

    I have to say Charles do you have the perfect build to showcase this short jackets, they fit you all so well!
    HPA Rep likes this.
  16. nightandthecity

    nightandthecity Practically Family

    some interesting history there. I have one of the very first which were made with a satin lining and a lighter gauge centre zip. I think Gary told me it was one of the first dozen (or was it 20?) before they switched to the brushed cotton lining and a stronger zip. I have to say the satin lining isn't as nice, and the zip bust after a couple of months! But the steerhide is superb, and has aged wonderfully with gorgeous brown undertones.

    It's a size 38 and the cut is different to the modern version, with a much tighter waist. I'm only 33-34" waist and had to stretch it! Some difference in the other measures too - here's the basics with the modern equivalent from Charles' webite in brackets. Chest 21.5 (22.5) shoulders 18 (19) arms 23.75 (23.5) back 23 (23.5).

    I got it second hand on ebay for £150 ;) and whilst its not my favourite style it is probably the most practical three-season jacket I own and gets plenty of use, particularly when travelling - the three zip pockets are brilliant.
    HPA Rep likes this.
  17. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    Stand By, thank you so much for sharing your own experiences and anecdotes on this style. Your friend indeed did get the earliest version, before there was a set production standard that was photographed for the d ELC brochure of the era.

    My interest in a Luft. style goes back to my childhood, right alongside my A-2 and B-3 jacket interests. I recall asking a leather shop in my hometown what it might cost to make a Luft. jacket based on photos, and was told about $500.00, which was more than what the vintage jackets were selling for in 1975.

    My interest continued for years, and when Gary Eastman mailed me snapshots of this style that was just coming on line an an order item, I placed my order immediately for the black steer hide type. Boy, was I excited when it arrived, and I quickly went about adding vintage buttons, fabricating leather loops, and installing vintage Luft. hauptmann shoulder boards, along with a detachable pin-on vintage breast eagle used for the white summer blouse.

    When the first stock of these jackets started arriving at HPA and I began promoting them, quite a few buyers wanted what I described I had done to my jacket, which led to about 9 jackets being outfitted with vintage insignia, the likes of which the buyers probably didn't really value in the collectible sense that the insignia really was in then, and even more so are now. I exhausted my resources for vintage insignia - genuine yellow-piped officer boards were scarce even back then, and found a source for repro insignia that satisfied all future buyers. There after, interest for adorned jackets slipped away, and by 1994, that was the end of HPA's offering of such an option.

    I ended up realizing my jacket was a size too big (42), so I sold that in 1997 and had Gary make me one in brown goatskin (M-422A) with the small, flap-type (Hartmann-like) pockets outfitted with NOS Luft. blue-grey glass buttons, which I still wear today. Then I had a brown horsehide version made in '98 that served as the Hartmann pattern some years later.

    I wore these jackets in the winter with a USN WWII sweater very frequently, so I personally share your sentiments as to warmth and being a go-to style. And being non-military in appearance to untrained eyes, they are very versatile, as you know well. Just a great style that lacks the greater appeal of the A-2.
    Stand By likes this.
  18. bn1966

    bn1966 Call Me a Cab

    Temperatures right down today, sold my Irvin yesterday (bit snug) so out came the Luftwaffe :)
  19. Big J

    Big J Call Me a Cab

    Ok, so I just got this XXXL BR MA-1, and a really really ratty C-series G-1 to put some Vietnam era patches on, and I was thinking 'feet up, job done, from now on spare cash goes into getting my cars back on the road' when just as I was sitting there, The Battle of Britain shows up on cable!
    And now I'm thinking 'oh yeah! They were real knights of the air! I NEED an Irvin and a Luftwaffe jacket', which led me to thinking of Micheal Caine in The Eagle Has Landed...
    The thing is, those Luftwaffe jackets were all 'private purchase' if I'm not mistaken. They were mainly repurposed cycling jackets weren't they? They've got that 30's style and European class. They might look a bit 'nazi' in black, but without the eagle, I don't think most people would make the connection. I can very easily see me wearing one at work with a pair of gray or beige slacks, and a blue shirt. Even with a neck tie it'd be good looking. Very strong 'European' vibe, I like it!
    I'm going to listen to Kraftwerk CD's now.
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  20. HPA Rep

    HPA Rep Sponsoring Affiliate

    I agree with you, Ton. This is a detail I admired on the style the first time I laid eyes on it back in the fall of 1989. Those early jackets also had leather zipper fobs in that typical teardrop shape you find on Luft. flying gear, but that design was short lived with ELC and they changed quickly to what you see today because the teardrop didn't allow the zipper to be secreted and hidden in the beaded folds of a closed chest pocket.

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