Chepstow
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Very cool Steve !
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German & Austrian Hutmachers
- Thread starter mayserwegener
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Manfred, Thanks!
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Rockel "25 Years" from the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg , Germany hat collection. Rockel Alsfeld was unusual because they were a post WWI hat company. They were able to produce high quality Velour hats (and other hats) at a lower price which made them popular. Also discovered they had their own fur cutting and felt production. This 25th anniversary booklet is especially interesting because it's post WWII. Mentions the lack of hat machine parts post WWII because all the hat machine makers were in the East of Germany (Guben was a main hub). I don't believe any of these German hat machine companies located in East Germany survived WWII. Also looks disparagingly at the hat-less movement.
The Google translation is rough but it's very much worth taking a look at.
(Click On Photos To Expand)
A business one drives from without; but work is only where it is active for communication of reason from within.
-Paracelus
THE FIRST HALF OF THE 20TH CENTURY
has all the features of the unusual. Two world wars, political upheavals greatest extent and bold foray, the human mind in previously barely glimpsed areas have changed the face of the world decisively. Mankind has entered the atomic age; immense forces her into the hand, and while they often endeavor despairing of greatness that lie ahead of her task is to overcome the terrible consequences of the last war, the issue is still not decided whether these forces for the destruction should find and destroy or to build and advance application, a curse or a blessing of all.
1925
Exactly in the middle of the first half of the century falls the foundation of the company. Mr. Rockel started his own business after his professional training with 24 years and founded on April 15, 1925 the company ROCKEL & CO. as a limited partnership.
Personally entertaining shareholders who Mr. Henry Rockel, limited partner Mr Albert Stein, who, however, already retired five years later from the company. As founding Alsfeld was chosen because here accidentally factory rooms, if, were also modestly available. It was started with five workers and increased the number of employees in the first year on 30th were made initially only hair stumps that were sold as semi-finished to the processing ladies hat industry. Particular difficulties lay in this, that, in Alsfeld not learned skilled workers were available, Mr. Rockel therefore each was obliged to teach in person.
Personally entertaining shareholders who Mr. Henry Rockel, limited partner Mr Albert Stein, who, however, already retired five years later from the company. As founding Alsfeld was chosen because here accidentally factory rooms, if, were also modestly available. It was started with five workers and increased the number of employees in the first year on 30th were made initially only hair stumps that were sold as semi-finished to the processing ladies hat industry. Particular difficulties lay in this, that, in Alsfeld not learned skilled workers were available, Mr. Rockel therefore each was obliged to teach in person.
At the time of establishing strong competition prevailed, and who exceptionally hard to enforce for the company over the grofssen holdings of old hat industry. Nevertheless, the manufacturing space soon proved too small from. In 1929, therefore, the company moved to its current plant site.
IN 1931 WAS THE MEN HAT - PRODUCTION added. In the following period, the company brought out a felt hat of special quality and iron had not yet been unknown price, which made its name on the hat gentlemen sector.
A branch operation in Frischborn, Krs. Lauterbach, was built in 1935 to there Tailoring perform the hair on their own. In the course of the year so that was the coarsest percentage needed in the hat factory hat substance manufactured Tailoring in your own hair. The achieved control of the precursor, which is essential for the breakdown of the qualities that a further important step in the direction of the company to its present importance.
IN THE WAR YEARS was obliged fabrication of Füfslingen (Fur Felt Socks) and Fur Felt Gloves are included for the Wehrmacht. a hair was out Füfslingen (Fur Felt Socks) then through lengthy trials felt slipper developed which is particularly warm because of the high qualities of rabbit hair and on addition stylish and appealing could be designed.
POST-WAR YEARS
Demand for hat-manufactures was very great due to the failure of the supply from the East, the fabrication hand connected in the postwar period due to the absence of many products met considerable difficulties. In particular, the lack of spare parts supplies made äufserst unpleasantly. Since the hat machines factories without exception are in the east, was obliged to be a move to produce spare parts in the widest sense of self. To satisfy the strong demand in some measure, to know how the manufacturing premises were expanded considerably in recent years. The number of Fanned machines - decisive for the capacity of a hat factory - is the anniversary year seven. are currently employs more than 500 staff and workers.
EXPORT
The hat made in the company brands found before the war abroad have strong appeal. Importing countries were substantially Holland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark. The torn by war threads are war torn threads are tied up for the time since. So the export business with Holland has been initiated again. Other countries will follow.
Within this small, internal correspondence some BASIC REMARKS ABOUT THE HAT are allowed. Unerlaefslicher part of the well-dressed gentleman, he already enjoyed in ancient times especially attentive and loving attention. Pictures of old masters thus represent the man almost exclusively with hat represents the personality and weight Reprasentation confer and also the totality of man Stressing for the hat like no other garment icon was.
The consciousness of this wholeness is gone today more or less lost us. Thus we see the disintegration of social ties and the associated dissolution of individuality in an existing as mere fiction "wholeness mass", the image of punishment if not dominate the hatless man as the visible expression of this phenomenon, but also change. Do we us right. people with rolled shirtsleeves there will always be. Those often sympathetic figures with wade avert convention and tradition are not interested here. the hatless gentleman in elegant double-breasted but is spiritually a torso, which is not up in the sense of dignity that is consciousness penetrated, at least but missed two lafst. Suave unit and with nuance unit of a neat, comprehensive the whole human lifestyle we speak pro domo we do not think an example will suffice:., imagine in addition to a clean, elegant and cultured woman - before a man without a hat - a lady in the original meaning of the word. Carelessness? Tactlessness? It is that sense of the wholeness of man to restore. Then the hat will be back more than mere headgear, namely expression increased vitality.
In April 1950,
To our esteemed business friends!
On the occasion of the 25th anniversary of our company we allow us inside to present a paper on the history of our company. We wish to express our heartfelt thanks for the confidence shown us in recent years. It will be our endeavor to justify this confidence in the future.
Yours
ROCKEL & CO.
The Google translation is rough but it's very much worth taking a look at.
(Click On Photos To Expand)
A business one drives from without; but work is only where it is active for communication of reason from within.
-Paracelus
THE FIRST HALF OF THE 20TH CENTURY
has all the features of the unusual. Two world wars, political upheavals greatest extent and bold foray, the human mind in previously barely glimpsed areas have changed the face of the world decisively. Mankind has entered the atomic age; immense forces her into the hand, and while they often endeavor despairing of greatness that lie ahead of her task is to overcome the terrible consequences of the last war, the issue is still not decided whether these forces for the destruction should find and destroy or to build and advance application, a curse or a blessing of all.
1925
Exactly in the middle of the first half of the century falls the foundation of the company. Mr. Rockel started his own business after his professional training with 24 years and founded on April 15, 1925 the company ROCKEL & CO. as a limited partnership.
Personally entertaining shareholders who Mr. Henry Rockel, limited partner Mr Albert Stein, who, however, already retired five years later from the company. As founding Alsfeld was chosen because here accidentally factory rooms, if, were also modestly available. It was started with five workers and increased the number of employees in the first year on 30th were made initially only hair stumps that were sold as semi-finished to the processing ladies hat industry. Particular difficulties lay in this, that, in Alsfeld not learned skilled workers were available, Mr. Rockel therefore each was obliged to teach in person.
Personally entertaining shareholders who Mr. Henry Rockel, limited partner Mr Albert Stein, who, however, already retired five years later from the company. As founding Alsfeld was chosen because here accidentally factory rooms, if, were also modestly available. It was started with five workers and increased the number of employees in the first year on 30th were made initially only hair stumps that were sold as semi-finished to the processing ladies hat industry. Particular difficulties lay in this, that, in Alsfeld not learned skilled workers were available, Mr. Rockel therefore each was obliged to teach in person.
At the time of establishing strong competition prevailed, and who exceptionally hard to enforce for the company over the grofssen holdings of old hat industry. Nevertheless, the manufacturing space soon proved too small from. In 1929, therefore, the company moved to its current plant site.
IN 1931 WAS THE MEN HAT - PRODUCTION added. In the following period, the company brought out a felt hat of special quality and iron had not yet been unknown price, which made its name on the hat gentlemen sector.
A branch operation in Frischborn, Krs. Lauterbach, was built in 1935 to there Tailoring perform the hair on their own. In the course of the year so that was the coarsest percentage needed in the hat factory hat substance manufactured Tailoring in your own hair. The achieved control of the precursor, which is essential for the breakdown of the qualities that a further important step in the direction of the company to its present importance.
IN THE WAR YEARS was obliged fabrication of Füfslingen (Fur Felt Socks) and Fur Felt Gloves are included for the Wehrmacht. a hair was out Füfslingen (Fur Felt Socks) then through lengthy trials felt slipper developed which is particularly warm because of the high qualities of rabbit hair and on addition stylish and appealing could be designed.
POST-WAR YEARS
Demand for hat-manufactures was very great due to the failure of the supply from the East, the fabrication hand connected in the postwar period due to the absence of many products met considerable difficulties. In particular, the lack of spare parts supplies made äufserst unpleasantly. Since the hat machines factories without exception are in the east, was obliged to be a move to produce spare parts in the widest sense of self. To satisfy the strong demand in some measure, to know how the manufacturing premises were expanded considerably in recent years. The number of Fanned machines - decisive for the capacity of a hat factory - is the anniversary year seven. are currently employs more than 500 staff and workers.
EXPORT
The hat made in the company brands found before the war abroad have strong appeal. Importing countries were substantially Holland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark. The torn by war threads are war torn threads are tied up for the time since. So the export business with Holland has been initiated again. Other countries will follow.
Within this small, internal correspondence some BASIC REMARKS ABOUT THE HAT are allowed. Unerlaefslicher part of the well-dressed gentleman, he already enjoyed in ancient times especially attentive and loving attention. Pictures of old masters thus represent the man almost exclusively with hat represents the personality and weight Reprasentation confer and also the totality of man Stressing for the hat like no other garment icon was.
The consciousness of this wholeness is gone today more or less lost us. Thus we see the disintegration of social ties and the associated dissolution of individuality in an existing as mere fiction "wholeness mass", the image of punishment if not dominate the hatless man as the visible expression of this phenomenon, but also change. Do we us right. people with rolled shirtsleeves there will always be. Those often sympathetic figures with wade avert convention and tradition are not interested here. the hatless gentleman in elegant double-breasted but is spiritually a torso, which is not up in the sense of dignity that is consciousness penetrated, at least but missed two lafst. Suave unit and with nuance unit of a neat, comprehensive the whole human lifestyle we speak pro domo we do not think an example will suffice:., imagine in addition to a clean, elegant and cultured woman - before a man without a hat - a lady in the original meaning of the word. Carelessness? Tactlessness? It is that sense of the wholeness of man to restore. Then the hat will be back more than mere headgear, namely expression increased vitality.
In April 1950,
To our esteemed business friends!
On the occasion of the 25th anniversary of our company we allow us inside to present a paper on the history of our company. We wish to express our heartfelt thanks for the confidence shown us in recent years. It will be our endeavor to justify this confidence in the future.
Yours
ROCKEL & CO.
Last edited:
KY Crusader
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Question for those who either own or have had experience with the fur-felt hats made by Hutkonig out of Regensburg: How would you rat the quality of these hats relative to their price? I started by "hat obsession" after purchasing a few nice trachten-style hats; but I have recently also become addicted to the classic fedora style. What I like about Hutkonig is that many of their models seem to combine these two traditions. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on one of the Classic Salzburger models; but, even with the dollar doing well against the Euro, this hat is still rather pricey for a rabbit felt (will be about $280 shipped). Would those of you with more experience than I recommend that better deals could be had searching for vintage Wegeners, Maysers, etc.?
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I am very familiar with Hutkönig Regensburg. Their hats are nice but very expensive. I have one of their trachten models and some NOS hats (P. & C. Habig Wien, Borsalino, ect). My friend has some of the Siberian Hare model hats which have some city dress elements but the photos are missing from my site. I will try to find them.
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/23-hutkonig-regensburg-hutmacher/
You might want to check out Zapf (Werfen, Austria). I just visited their factory recently.
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...-werfen-austria-factory-tour-january-19-2016/
I am focused on 1950s and older German and Austrian hats. You may want to take a look through my site which is better organized (also more information) than this thread.
Finding pre 1960 German and Austrian city dress hats (soft and stiff felts) requires checking European sources (an occasional gem will pop up on American Ebay). I would start with German and Austrian Ebay. It can be tricky because many sellers do not accept PayPal or do not want ship to America. Getting around these obstacles is something that I am good at. What size do you wear?
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/23-hutkonig-regensburg-hutmacher/
You might want to check out Zapf (Werfen, Austria). I just visited their factory recently.
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...-werfen-austria-factory-tour-january-19-2016/
I am focused on 1950s and older German and Austrian hats. You may want to take a look through my site which is better organized (also more information) than this thread.
Finding pre 1960 German and Austrian city dress hats (soft and stiff felts) requires checking European sources (an occasional gem will pop up on American Ebay). I would start with German and Austrian Ebay. It can be tricky because many sellers do not accept PayPal or do not want ship to America. Getting around these obstacles is something that I am good at. What size do you wear?
Last edited:
KY Crusader
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I am very familiar with Hutkönig Regensburg. Their hats are nice but very expensive. I have one of their trachten models and some NOS hats (P. & C. Habig Wien, Borsalino, ect). My friend has some of the Siberian Hare model hats which have some city dress elements but the photos are missing from my site. I will try to find them,
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/23-hutkonig-regensburg-hutmacher/
You might want to check out Zapf (Werfen, Austria). I just visited their factory recently.
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionz...-werfen-austria-factory-tour-january-19-2016/
I am focused on 1950s and older German and Austrian hats. You may want to take a look through my site which is better organized (also more information) than this thread.
Thanks for the links and the info: I always enjoy your postings on the FL. I am familiar with Zapf: In fact, I already own two of their current models (a Lamberg and an Axam), and they are fine hats. However, I'd like to explore some other makers. Moreover, if you go into Zapf's Habsburg line, you're looking at about the same price as the mid-range Hutkonigs. And, yes, I have noticed that vintage German and Austrian hats are rather difficult to find for sale in the US. And I have noticed that many vendors on any of the European E-bay sites do not ship outside of the EU. All of which is how I ended up looking at Hutkonig. Anyway, to answer your last question: My actual size is about a 57.5, but 58 is what I get unless I'm ordering a custom.
And what wonderful photos of the Zapf factory! I feel like I've just been there myself!
Last edited:
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Thanks! On my recent visit I actually purchased this Velour (sourced from FEPSA) hat at Zapf that cost $191.00 but I didn't have to pay shipping (carried back on airplane). I don't think you will find the same detail work (brim binding & ribbon/bow work) from HKR. I will post photos later today.
There is a custom maker in Cologne (Jürgen Eifler) that I visited a while ago but he also has very high prices. He also doesn't have the machinery that Zapf and HKR have which helps to produce a better hat.
http://www.hut-classic.com/
Wegener might also be worth checking out because they do make to order Homburg style hats. You may want to see what else they have available. I wanted to visit Wegener on my recent trip but I couldn't make it work.
There is also Lembert in Augsburg. They have the machines to make very high quality hats but their finishing (sweat band, liner, ribbon/bow) are suspect.
http://www.hutfabrik-lembert.de/huetefuerherren.html
I visited Lembert a few years ago and couldn't believe the number machines, wood blocks and flanges they had all in working order. The owner / production manager Christian Lembert (a very friendly person) has kept all the machines in working order. Truly amazing!
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/13-kr-lembert-hutfabrik/#entry423
Factory video (You can see all the hat machines they have!)
I am also around 58cm. You can find 1950s and older German and Austrian soft felt city dress style hats in this size range but it takes a lot of searching to find them.
There is a custom maker in Cologne (Jürgen Eifler) that I visited a while ago but he also has very high prices. He also doesn't have the machinery that Zapf and HKR have which helps to produce a better hat.
http://www.hut-classic.com/
Wegener might also be worth checking out because they do make to order Homburg style hats. You may want to see what else they have available. I wanted to visit Wegener on my recent trip but I couldn't make it work.
There is also Lembert in Augsburg. They have the machines to make very high quality hats but their finishing (sweat band, liner, ribbon/bow) are suspect.
http://www.hutfabrik-lembert.de/huetefuerherren.html
I visited Lembert a few years ago and couldn't believe the number machines, wood blocks and flanges they had all in working order. The owner / production manager Christian Lembert (a very friendly person) has kept all the machines in working order. Truly amazing!
http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/13-kr-lembert-hutfabrik/#entry423
Factory video (You can see all the hat machines they have!)
I am also around 58cm. You can find 1950s and older German and Austrian soft felt city dress style hats in this size range but it takes a lot of searching to find them.
Last edited:
KY Crusader
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Thanks for the Eifler info: I've not heard of him before. From what I see on his web site, he is certainly someone to consider.
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I added some additional information.
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Hutmacher Zapf "Franz Karl" Collection Habsburg, size 58cm, felt sourced from FEPSA. I purchased (rare step out of the vintage world) this hat at the Zapf factory back in January. It is machine + hand formed with high quality finishing work.
Unique sweatband color!
Unique sweatband color!
KY Crusader
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Very nice indeed! Especially the detailing. Thanks for sharing.
TheDane
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That looks gorgeous, Steve! I really like the composite type ribbon - and the very elaborate "ribboned" underwelt. Beautiful and creative, indeed!
What are your thoughts on the felt quality?
What are your thoughts on the felt quality?
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That is one nice looking hut, Steve! I really like the unique ribbon and edge treatment!
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25 OR
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TheDane
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Perry, that's a wonderful example of a Southern Bavarian kuh-junge hut. Sehr schön!
25 OR
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Ole, The felt was supposedly sourced from FEPSA. I am not sure if Zapf did anything to the finish. I will check with them about the finish. It's not really a Velour so I am interesting to see what they hay to say. The color and felt quality are very good. The felt is of a heavier weight. The stiffness is perfect and the brim snaps perfectly. I am fairly certain Zapf could make a really interesting / high quality vintage city style dress hat in open crown if they wanted to but that isn't their market. They have the machines plus hand work to do the work correctly. They also have a high attention to detail.
PS. I received word that it's considered Velour.
Harv, Thanks!
KY Crusader, Thanks again!
PS. I received word that it's considered Velour.
Harv, Thanks!
KY Crusader, Thanks again!
Last edited:
TheDane
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Thanks Steve, very interesting. But it is "a really interesting / high quality vintage city style dress hat". It's just a European one
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Yes I was addressing the FL tall crown / wider brim fans. Zapf makes a high quality machine assisted (critical during the forming process) hat. As you know machines are not the enemy.
Bahner Hat Machines told me the problem is that some hat companies are not maintaining their machines properly (or not investing in new machines) so this impacts quality. This extends to the felting business too. I learned much on my visit to Bahner Hat Machines but I can't get into the details.
Zapf makes a high quality machine assisted (critical during the forming process) hat. As you know machines are not the enemy.Bahner Hat Machines told me the problem is that some hat companies are not maintaining their machines properly (or not investing in new machines) so this impacts quality. This extends to the felting business too. I learned much on my visit to Bahner Hat Machines but I can't get into the details.
Last edited:
Chepstow
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Great Rockel Book and a good Story, Steve!
Cusader, If you have any problem with Shipment to US let ne know, maybe I can help!
You will find a lot of Mix Trachten hats in your Size in German EBay - also from Mayser and Wegener - also in Great Quality.
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Cusader, If you have any problem with Shipment to US let ne know, maybe I can help!
You will find a lot of Mix Trachten hats in your Size in German EBay - also from Mayser and Wegener - also in Great Quality.
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Manfred, Thanks! I was hoping you would see the Rockel booklet.