German & Austrian Hutmachers

[steur]

We can't hope to top a hat like the BGH, Steve has posted, but this hat has some things going for it. Rockel Exquisit in longhair finish and beige colour, with darker brown ribbon. Steve has one of these on his website, but I don't know if that one was posted here before and I figured we can always use one more of these. Underwelt brim 6cm and 10 cm crown, lined with plastic covering of crown patch. Cloth sweatband is a bit odd feature but doesnt look a replacement. Fairly stiff hat which is not very common, because these longhairs are usually quite pliable. This one dates from the seventies I think. Not the heyday of Rockel, but still a nice hat and quite rare in this light colour.

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, The color and finish are great looking. Based on other Rockel hats from this time period I tend to think the original sweatband was replaced. Regarding modifications, I am just about to post a really interesting hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

Max Wiese Berlin (M.W.B.) "Halali Special", measures 58cm probably late 1930s early 1940s, modified probably 1970s or later. The crown of this hat was cut down and the band was changed to a felt type. The over welt was also added and probably the hat was reformed to further reduce brim width (modified dimensions Crown Open 5 1/2 inches, Brim 2 1/4 inches). The modification work is really well done (saved original sweatband, tip patch (could be cut from liner) and paper label) but I am sure the original hat was amazing. The felt on this hat is really fantastic and easily dry creases (see photos).

Open Crown

You can see that the sweatband was reattached after modification.

You can see the where the crown was cut (just below stitching).

Here is advertisement for a Max Wiese Berlin "Halali Hut". I think this one is later but it's probably close to what this hat originally looked like. What is interesting is Halali is associated with hunting but these hats are Dress Hats.

They were made by other companies and go back to the early 1900s or further.

Today I can only find an association with hunting.

https://www.halalico.com/

 

[steur]

Max Wiese Berlin (M.W.B.) "Halali Special", measures 58cm probably late 1930s early 1940s, modified probably 1970s or later. The crown of this hat was cut down and the band was changed to a felt type. The over welt was also added and probably the hat was reformed to further reduce brim width (modified dimensions Crown Open 5 1/2 inches, Brim 2 1/4 inches). The modification work is really well done (saved original sweatband, tip patch and paper label) but I am sure the original hat was amazing. The felt on this hat is really fantastic and easily dry creases (see photos).

Open Crown

You can see that the sweatband was reattached after modification.

You can see the where the crown was cut (just below stitching).

Here is advertisement for a Max Wiese Berlin "Halali Hut". I think this one is later but it's probably close to what this hat originally looked like. What is interesting is Halali is associated with hunting but these hats are Dress Hats.

They were made by other companies and go back to the early 1900s or further.

Today I can only find an association with hunting.

https://www.halalico.com/

Steve, that is certainly a special hat and a great backstory. Can't say it's really my taste after the modifications but I agree that the original must have been really something. I think you are right about the Rockel, by the way. I saw the other one on your website did appear to have a leather sweatband. It wouldn't have been due to wear, because the hat looks practically unworn. Maybe it was modified to be worn by a woman.
I have another interesting find I will post in a few moments for you to take look at. Maybe you can shed some light on that one.

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, Thanks! I agree on the new look but it fits perfectly and looked pretty good on my head (at least I thought so). The crown still has a nice form with some height too. I will post photos wearing it later. Looking forward to your post.

 

[steur]

This one i picked up yesterday just because the look of it appealed to me. I think this is an old one, but I can't really guess how old. Not a fedora and not a homburg either, so let's say dress hat in grey. Model name is Adler, but I can't make out the maker's name on the crown patch. Labels are in German, so a German or Austrian maker. It shows what looks like a three pronged crown on the crownpatch. Size 55, but fits me near enough. Brim at 6cm and crown 10 cm in front. Ribbon 5cm and unreeded sweatband with cord all the way round. Really interesting shape. The felt is certainly not of the highest quality and if not completely wool, then at least in part. In was incredibly dusty but cleaned up very nice.

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, Super find! It looks fantastic. I think might have been made by R. & M. Wegener. The paper label label similar but "Garn" instead of "Com" and no "R. & M. W.".

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/4-rm-wegener-hutfabrik/page-2#entry387

The ribbon and bow is very similar to old R. & M. Wegener of mine (missing paper label).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/4-rm-wegener-hutfabrik/page-3#entry1030

 

[steur]

Stefan, Super find! It looks fantastic. I think might have been made by R. & M. Wegener. The paper label label similar but "Garn" instead of "Com" and no "R. & M. W.".

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/4-rm-wegener-hutfabrik/page-2#entry387

The ribbon and bow is very similar to old R. & M. Wegener of mine (missing paper label).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/4-rm-wegener-hutfabrik/page-3#entry1030

Steve, thanks. These are certainly strong clues towards R&M Wegener as a maker. Could be the hat was marketed under another name and that's why the R.&M. W. was not on the label. Quick research work!

 

[mayserwegener]

Stefan, Thank you. When I saw that paper label I thought of R. & M. Wegener but it could be just a coincidence. My guess would be late 1920s early 1930s. Similar time period to the Wegener I posted above. Again great find!

 

[steur]

We had a bit of a hunting theme going on yesterday with Steve's remarkable Halali-hat and I thought to myself "why not not take this hunting theme a bit further and set out for some antilope?" So I hunted in my own collection for the hats with antilope finishes and I didn't care if they called themselves "chamois" or "peach" or "suede" instead. Found a few of them and here's the first trophy. In my mind antilope is a bit shorter haired than velour, which is in turn shorter than real longhair, but I must admit these finishes come in so many names and forms I lose track.
Lembert antilope in black, size 55 (but fits me easily), bound edge, unlined and no crown patch either (doesn't look like it ever had one), perforated sweatband in the front. Brim at 6,5cm and crown 10 cm at the pinch. Had this dated as mid fifties to mid sixties, but can't say why exactly. This is one of those petting hats.

 

[steur]

It doesn't count as a herd if there's only one, so I might as well do a second one right away. Peschel Chevret in brown, size 57, bound brim at 6,5cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Lined and with a nice thin ribbon. Made for Hellings, Bonn (of which I have another hat, but that's for another time). Same period as the Lembert I think.

 

[steur]

I haven't seen this brand come up here before and it is one of the herd, so here it is. Gallinat Antilope in grey, size 56, bound brim at 6,5cm and crown 9,5 cm at the pinch. Nice thin two-toned ribbon. Despite it's fancy French sounding name I believe this to be a hat made by a German or Austrian manufacturer. There is no label behind the sweatband, but the markings on the sweatband are all in German ("Rein Haar" and "Handarbeit"). Made for Hut-Müller in Munich. High quality hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

We had a bit of a hunting theme going on yesterday with Steve's remarkable Halali-hat and I thought to myself "why not not take this hunting theme a bit further and set out for some antilope?" So I hunted in my own collection for the hats with antilope finishes and I didn't care if they called themselves "chamois" or "peach" or "suede" instead. Found a few of them and here's the first trophy. In my mind antilope is a bit shorter haired than velour, which is in turn shorter than real longhair, but I must admit these finishes come in so many names and forms I lose track.
Lembert antilope in black, size 55 (but fits me easily), bound edge, unlined and no crown patch either (doesn't look like it ever had one), perforated sweatband in the front. Brim at 6,5cm and crown 10 cm at the pinch. Had this dated as mid fifties to mid sixties, but can't say why exactly. This is one of those petting hats.

Stefan, Great looking Lembert! My guess is it had a liner because the inside of the hat doesn't look finished. I think it's old enough that the liner would have been stitched. The antilope finish is made by pouncing / sanding. I need to find out if such a finish required hot wet brushing during felting. My guess is some did and some did not. Same regarding Hare fur content.

It doesn't count as a herd if there's only one, so I might as well do a second one right away. Peschel Chevret in brown, size 57, bound brim at 6,5cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Lined and with a nice thin ribbon. Made for Hellings, Bonn (of which I have another hat, but that's for another time). Same period as the Lembert I think.

This Peschel is fantastic! A.P.D. made really great hats. Very high quality. Great color and finish!

I haven't seen this brand come up here before and it is one of the herd, so here it is. Gallinat Antilope in grey, size 56, bound brim at 6,5cm and crown 9,5 cm at the pinch. Nice thin two-toned ribbon. Despite it's fancy French sounding name I believe this to be a hat made by a German or Austrian manufacturer. There is no label behind the sweatband, but the markings on the sweatband are all in German ("Rein Haar" and "Handarbeit"). Made for Hut-Müller in Munich. High quality hat.

Super looking hat! I am not sure what company made it. Would it be possible to post a clearer photo of the liner logo?

 

[Redfokker]

Impressive herd Stefan, all with a beautiful finish and classic lines. If one more is posted, it will be a stampede! A definite treat to see.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Great looking Lembert! My guess is it had a liner because the inside of the hat doesn't look finished. I think it's old enough that the liner would have been stitched. The antilope finish is made by pouncing / sanding. I need to find out if such a finish required hot wet brushing during felting. My guess is some did and some did not. Same regarding Hare fur content.


This Peschel is fantastic! A.P.D. made really great hats. Very high quality. Great color and finish!


Super looking hat! I am not sure what company made it. Would it be possible to post a clearer photo of the liner logo?

Steve, thanks. More to come. Here's the additional shot of the liner logo. Not much to go on there though: it has the French fleur de lis and a cockerel on top. All suggest a French make, but the sweatband says something else. no labels inside unfortunately.

 

[steur]

Impressive herd Stefan, all with a beautiful finish and classic lines. If one more is posted, it will be a stampede! A definite treat to see.

Mike, thanks. More to come in a moment. Might make a small herd of it yet.

 

[steur]

The fourth of the small herd of antilope hats of today. Echter Mayser Wildleder in grey brown, size 56, bound brim 6cm and crown at 11cm at the pinch. No liner, ut a crown patch with plastic covering. Nice thin constrasting ribbon in the asme colour as the brim binding. Great hat this one. I have it down as mid fifties to mid sxties. Made for Hut-Müller.

 

[steur]

Next one I'm completely unsure of, but I base its make as German or Austrian purely on the German sounding name on the label and the similarity to the other antilope hats. Valetini Superior in size 57, bound brim 6,5 cm and crown 10 cm at the pinch. Lined with plastic covering of the crown patch. Thin contrasting ribbon again. Label states "Herold" and "rosenholz". Very thin felt with beautiful finish. Doesn't shape easily though.

 

[steur]

And the last one (I have another one, but that one is definitely French and could even be considered a velour). This is certainly not the least one of the herd and is the final hat I picked up in the eight hat haul of last week. Danubia (but according to the label made by Hutfabrik Gebrüder Kurzthaler, Linz) in black, size 55 or 56 (label is unclear, but fits me perfectly so it's 56 to me). Bound brim at 6,5 cm and crown 10 cm at the pinch. Inlined with just a cloth crown patch. This is an early one, late forties, early fifties I think. This one is a bit longer haired, almost a velour, as opposed to the Valetini, which is very short and closer to a regular felt finish. Can't figure out what the quality designation on the label is supposed to say, but is is a excellent hat.

 

[Steve1857]

Some really nice hats. Thanks for posting them.
My best guess for what the quality designation on the Danubia is would be "Erste".

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk