German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

G. Panizza & C. Hutfabrik Ghiffa (Italien), Visit Announcement, Representative: dr. Antonio Gamba

Printed Matter, Adler Hat Shop, Schaffhausen (Switzerland, German - Swiss Border), November 27, 1933

Dr. Antonio Gamba (Museo dell’Arte del Cappello di Ghiffa)

 

[steur]

Beautiful hat as usual. I find it interesting that it has the lines of a Homburg without the binding on the brim. Is this the "nexus" of what we call a Lord's Hat (an American term(?).

Mike, thanks. As Steve has pointed out when discussing the "arbeitsgeberhut" the hat style with brim roll was quite common in the tens, twenties and thirties. I don't know when this style first popped up though. The style was very varied but as hat forms and models diminished over the years the forms that remained were the homburg hat and lords hat. So in that sense this style in general could be called the nexus of the lords hat.

 

[steur]

yes, i've been looking on ebay. I suppose it's as much about luck as anything, that your size appears for sale, in the colour style and shape you seek when you have the time to search. I've favorited a couple of online shops i've found that sell similar items if not in my size. But google doesn't seem to lead to much right now. By foot, Most b & m, thrift stores in Dublin shut down by the 2000s and there aren't decent flea markets here anymore. Pity. Before Temple Bar became a tourist attraction in the late 1990s it was full of such stores, now it's full of super pubs and tourists.

but thanks, i'm going to england in the summer on holidays, maybe I'll try and suss out where thete are some good used flea markets and drop by.

Online sources for vintage hats are very scarce. Ebay is an obvious site to visit, but the listings are not always in the most logical place. I find some of my hats on Dutch auction sites, but good ones are few and far between. Vintage clothing stores can be a good source as well, but usually don't have sites with their wares on them, because the turnaround is too quick and the prices too low to make it worth the effort.

 

[KarlCrow]

Online sources for vintage hats are very scarce. Ebay is an obvious site to visit, but the listings are not always in the most logical place. I find some of my hats on Dutch auction sites, but good ones are few and far between. Vintage clothing stores can be a good source as well, but usually don't have sites with their wares on them, because the turnaround is too quick and the prices too low to make it worth the effort.

thanks for the reply and information. Much appreciated.

 

[mayserwegener]

Mike, thanks. As Steve has pointed out when discussing the "arbeitsgeberhut" the hat style with brim roll was quite common in the tens, twenties and thirties. I don't know when this style first popped up though. The style was very varied but as hat forms and models diminished over the years the forms that remained were the homburg hat and lords hat. So in that sense this style in general could be called the nexus of the lords hat.

You see similar style hats going back to last quarter of the 19th Century. The English Hat Companies were really conservative and so were the American Hat Companies but to slightly lesser degree (they were heavily influenced by the English). They fought the late 19th Century Continental Soft Felt trend tooth and nail. The "Lord's Hat" is an Anglo term for hats worn by English Elites like Anthony Eden (black, curled brim, no brim binding, very formal form with very high end components).

 

[mayserwegener]

"Scherenschnitte / Scissor Cuts" Postcards, German, 1920s. The cuts are actually glued to the postcards.

 

[KarlCrow]

that ebay buy that was labelled greif haarhut arrived today, there were no makers or vendors names under the leather sweatband. It was in a shocking state, shipped unsupported in a plastic shipping bag!

after steaming, brushing, and generally beating the soul back into it, it looks like a fine gardening hat, perhaps a 45mm black ribbon to replace the tatty one.

 

[KarlCrow]

it's a thick coarse felt as predicted by MeyserW, it's either washed out or purposefully multicolour. I may try dying it, if i find information on how to do that.

 

[mayserwegener]

It looks like it came back to life. The felt is purposely mixed colors (I have a really fantastic 1930s example coming). I like the look of it with the original ribbon.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

I wouldn't change the ribbon, too.
Like it like that!

 

[KarlCrow]

the ribbon is tattier than it looks there. Anyway, it's not bad, t-shirt, old jeans type of hat with charachter. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[mayserwegener]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik "Turf", Weather - Proof, Crown Open 5 1/2, Brim 2 1/2 inches, 55cm probably later 1930s. I have been looking for a B.G.H. hat for a long time. Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik was the largest hat factory (Wool and Fur Felt divisions) in Germany but didn't survive WWII. I think they must have sold mostly non branded hats to distributors, whole sellers and large retail establishments. The mixed color felt on this hat is really extraordinary. Also great form and interesting Bow and Over Welt This is now one of my favorite hats even though I can't wear it. What is interesting is this hat was distributed by Friedrich W. Schneider Köln (still in business today and own Stetson Europe) for Jung Augsburg (also still in business today).

Open Crown

Qual. / Quality Turf
Farbe / Color: Azalee / Azalea
55 / 55cm
F.W.S. Koeln / Friedrich W. Schneider Köln

Meh / Mehrfarbig / Multicolored

Alles Unter Einem Gubener Hut!

 

[RJR]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik "Turf", Weather - Proof, Crown Open 5 1/2, Brim 2 1/2 inches, 55cm probably later 1930s. I have been looking for a B.G.H. hat for a long time. Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik was the largest hat factory (Wool and Fur Felt divisions) in Germany but didn't survive WWII. I think they must have sold mostly non branded hats to distributors, whole sellers and large retail establishments. The mixed color felt on this hat is really extraordinary. Also great form and interesting Bow and Over Welt This is now one of my favorite hats even though I can't wear it. What is interesting is this hat was distributed by Friedrich W. Schneider Köln (still in business today and own Stetson Europe) for Jung Augsburg (also still in business today).

Open Crown

Qual. / Quality Turf
Farbe / Color: Azalee / Azalea
55 / 55cm
F.W.S. Koeln / Friedrich W. Schneider Köln

Meh / Mehrfarbig / Multicolored

Alles Unter Einem Gubener Hut!

That finish and the colors are outstanding.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! In the Bow and Over Welt photos you can see the individual fibers.

 

[steur]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik "Turf", Weather - Proof, Crown Open 5 1/2, Brim 2 1/2 inches, 55cm probably later 1930s. I have been looking for a B.G.H. hat for a long time. Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik was the largest hat factory (Wool and Fur Felt divisions) in Germany but didn't survive WWII. I think they must have sold mostly non branded hats to distributors, whole sellers and large retail establishments. The mixed color felt on this hat is really extraordinary. Also great form and interesting Bow and Over Welt This is now one of my favorite hats even though I can't wear it. What is interesting is this hat was distributed by Friedrich W. Schneider Köln (still in business today and own Stetson Europe) for Jung Augsburg (also still in business today).

Open Crown

Qual. / Quality Turf
Farbe / Color: Azalee / Azalea
55 / 55cm
F.W.S. Koeln / Friedrich W. Schneider Köln

Meh / Mehrfarbig / Multicolored

Alles Unter Einem Gubener Hut!

As said before: love everything about this one. Congratulations on this find (pity it isn't your size). I must admit though that I am a bit surprised that there were still hats that you didn't have

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks! It's possible one of the older no company mark hats I have is from Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik. The large paper label in this one is from F.W.S. and the smaller paper label with no company mark I assume is from B.G.H.. This is definitely a rare find. I normally only purchase hats in my size range but I have a few where I made an exception (like this one). The hat probably measures closer to 54cm. It will definitely be on display. I have the B.G.H. 50 Year book I need still need to translate and post.

 

[Redfokker]

After looking at that B.G.H. beauty on a couple of threads now, I am truly amazed. The finish is probably the most wonderful I've ever seen. I would be afraid to wear such a museum piece even if it did fit. Constant care and brushing to keep the fur going in the right direction. Again, you are awesome Steve!

 

[mayserwegener]

Mike, Thank you!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik "Turf", Weather - Proof, Crown Open 5 1/2, Brim 2 1/2 inches, 55cm probably later 1930s. I have been looking for a B.G.H. hat for a long time. Berlin Gubener Hutfabrik was the largest hat factory (Wool and Fur Felt divisions) in Germany but didn't survive WWII. I think they must have sold mostly non branded hats to distributors, whole sellers and large retail establishments. The mixed color felt on this hat is really extraordinary. Also great form and interesting Bow and Over Welt This is now one of my favorite hats even though I can't wear it. What is interesting is this hat was distributed by Friedrich W. Schneider Köln (still in business today and own Stetson Europe) for Jung Augsburg (also still in business today).

Now with more time allowed to see with quiet this hat I only can say: It is Super!
What I can say more than this?

 

[mayserwegener]

Daniele, Thank you! It's unique.