How are greatcoats meant to fit?

[EarlGrey]

Long time lurker here, and have greatly benefited from the collective wisdom of the Fedora Lounge over the years. I've finally come across a question I haven't been able to find an answer to.

I have come into possession of a couple of British Civil Defense greatcoats, and am confused by how they are supposed to fit. Some sources seem to indicate quite form fitting, without regard for, say, a suit jacket/military tunic. At most maybe over a shirt and sweater. On the other hand, everything I know about great/trench coats say they should fit over a jacket.

Does anybody have any insight on this? Much thanks!

 

[tonypaj]

I did my military service way up north. My thinking was always to get a big enough thing to layer a lot of of stuff underneath. I've slept in them at zero C, no tent, no nothing, against a tree. Back then I could not care less about what I looked like, warm was the way to go.

If you want it as a modern garment, I'd go the same way as you'd go with the trench coats.

 

[ProteinNerd]

I think it would depend on how you plan on wearing it. If you expect you will wear it over just a shirt and sweater most of the time, use that as your fit guide or alternatively if you plan to use it over the top of a suit jacket or whatever, use that.

 

[Dinerman]

Generally, the rule of thumb is the measured chest of a coat should fit six inches larger than your measured chest size taken over your shirt.

 

[zzzbrod]

I generally have my coats tailored so even the length falls mid calf. I see men have it shorter but I think mid calf is just perfect.

 

[havocpaul]

They were always meant to be worn over uniform typically battledress and the CD ones would be the same when issued, however, I have always bought mine with the view of wearing them over a shirt and jumper so not oversized.

 

[EarlGrey]

Thanks for the insight guys!

My main confusion stems from the fact that most coats I own are tailored to take into account for layers. My bridge coat is a 38, but that's taking into consideration for 38 + layers of clothes. For whatever reason, the British CD coat in 38 is pretty much exactly 38, leaving little to no room for layering. I guess people really were thinner back then!

I do like the CD greatcoat though. Thick outer wool layer, thinner wool liner, weights a ton, but so very stylish and warm. They really don't make them like they used to. I will admit, the thought of wearing a 60 year old coat is a bit odd... hopefully it will last a few more decades!