Men's New Evening Jan. 16, 1939

[Undertow]

First off, I apologize I cannot post this article or the pictures in their entirety. I found this while browsing the exhaustive LIFE Magazine archive in Google Books (links posted elsewhere on the lounge).

I'm referring to an article starting on pg. 42 of the following link: Men's New Evening Suit Harks Back to Overalls

"Color and fantasy in men’s Wear is not confined to southern resort clothes and jewelry. The pictures at right show a refreshing new evening fashion for men seen recently at a party held at the Coq Rouge in New York by the School of Professional Arts.

This new style is the result of a project for new design in men’s clothes undertaken by the students of the school under the supervision of Archibald Gunning Loomis, designer. At the School’s party, seven members of the school and Chauncey Mathews of Yale and Roger Conant of Lord and Taylor bravely wore the strange pastel-colored garb for which each had paid $50. Although startling at first sight, the new clothes were soon accepted and mingled unchallenged with the white ties and tails of the more conservative guests."

Picture Captions:

1. All-In-One pants and vest of light blue flannel are zipped up the side.
2. Suspenders start at the shoulders, button to the inside of the high-waisted pants.
3. Silk Dickey, in white or in colors, takes place of the dress shirt, stiff collar and tie.
4. Signet picture ring of gold with platinum initials is worn by Lawrence Tibbett. Inside is a picture of Mrs. Tibbet. Signet rings and rings with huge, gaudy stones are popular.
5. Gold nut-and-bolt cuff links are worn by Eddy Duchin. Coupling is so made that links can be put on without unscrewing. Paul Flato designed them, sells other like them for $75.
6. Tie ends of dickey go through a slit at the back, are fastened into a soft square knot at front.
7. Buttonless short coat of blue flannel completes the outfit. At right, Mr. Mathews at the party.

Any thoughts on this? I thought this was a relatively entertaining article and quite interesting. I don't think I've seen or heard of an outfit like this EVER. Notice the prices; that had to have been quite expensive in that day and age!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Any thoughts on this? I thought this was a relatively entertaining article and quite interesting. I don't think I've seen or heard of an outfit like this EVER. Notice the prices; that had to have been quite expensive in that day and age!

In the 1930s, Filipino/African-American/Chicano/Nisei (male) Lindyhoppers sometimes wore a variation of this at the Savoy Ballroom and other venues. Their very high-waisted wool or rayon trousers had built-in or detachable 'overall' straps, made in the same fabric as the trousers. In fact, the trousers were so high-waisted, they almost did look like overalls.


I've seen only one pair in person: the 'overall' trousers were part of a 1930s two-piece suit.

 

[Fletch]

I was gonna say "dancers," myself. Bobby Burgess of the Lawrence Welk Show often danced in 1-piece vest-and-trouser outfits.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.
Here's are LIFE magazine photos of Lindyhopper Frankie Manning wearing a pair:

 

[Two Types]

First off, I apologize I cannot post this article or the pictures in their entirety. I found this while browsing the exhaustive LIFE Magazine archive in Google Books (links posted elsewhere on the lounge).

I'm referring to an article starting on pg. 42 of the following link: Men's New Evening Suit Harks Back to Overalls

I noticed another feature in the same magazine (but couldn't clearly read the caption) that showed some sort of 'beach jacket' without lapels. I am interested in these - does anyone know anything about them?

 

[Undertow]

Two Types, is that the one on pg 40 that looks like a heather green cardigan with three buttons? The caption reads: Daytime jackets minus collars. The wording next to it reads: A great many more [men] will wear collarless jackets over shirts and slacks (right).

That looks very much like a cardigan with a high button stance and no collar or lapel. It has a strange little front pocket for a handkerchief, unless that's just a funny angle and the pocket is actually bigger. The material seems to be hanging funny - it can't be wool, it must be rayon or cotton, or maybe some rayon/wool blend. Quite casual. I like how the big, unbuttoned collar of the shirt is used to overlap the missing collar of the jacket. It seems late 60's/early 70's. I've never seen anything like that, either.

Take a look at those "brief trunks" that apparently closely resemble the "bandana-diapers" of last year! Good lord...and we thought speedos were bad? These things look like a multicolored hernia brace. (truth be told, I'd wear 'em, lol)

I also like the gray evening jacket with shawl lapels and single-button closure to the left. It would be a nice casual jacket for evening events without "dressing to the nines" by today's standards.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.
The caption under the top left photo on page 41 isn't kidding. For proof, here's are two 1940 photos of Los Angeles haberdasher James Oviatt (with some Hollywood studio executives and directors) golfing on Catalina Island. Mr. Oviatt (at far left) has got that untucked polo shirt thing down pat:

 

[Qirrel]

I noticed another feature in the same magazine (but couldn't clearly read the caption) that showed some sort of 'beach jacket' without lapels. I am interested in these - does anyone know anything about them?

Well, there is the "patriotic" suit:

Here in a more sporty setting, which might be what you are looking for:

 

[Dinerman]

I've seen some similar suits from the '80s- mostly double breasted, which looks even stranger.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Cary Grant in Philadelphia Story 1940.

German, 1948

 

[Undertow]

Aha, great scans everyone!

So these collarless suits were like a leisure suit of sorts? Relatively casual, maybe worn by someone with a sense of style?

Marc, Mr. Oviatt does seem to pull that off well enough. I prefer the tucked guys myself. The picture in the LIFE magazine is kinda bad, in my most humble opinion.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Marc, Mr. Oviatt does seem to pull that off well enough. I prefer the tucked guys myself. The picture in the LIFE magazine is kinda bad, in my most humble opinion.

Agreed. Judging by James Oviatt's goofy grin in the photos, I reckon that he was fooling around for the camera. Out of the dozens of photos I've unearthed of the man --images which span seven decades-- these two are the only ones that show him looking even remotely sloppy.


Here are more typical pics of Mr. Oviatt:

 

[Undertow]

Oh my gosh, yes. That man is slick!

So were those Lindyhopper outfits along the same lines as the Zoot suits? They seem to be very similar. Was there a jacket that accompanied Manning's suit? The below picture is Cab Calloway and Jonah Jones. Their trousers are drawn nearly to their sternums. Manning's is maybe only slightly higher.

Also, both of Qirrel's images show guys looking in amazement and maybe even disbelief at the collarless suit-wearer. I take it those didn't quite catch on!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Was there a jacket that accompanied Manning's suit?

I don't know about Manning, but I did once see in person a vintage suit whose trousers were like his. The jacket was single-breasted and not long at all. It would never have been mistaken for a zoot jacket.

 

[Two Types]

Cary Grant in Philadelphia Story 1940.

German, 1948

These are interesting. The reason I asked about them is because I once interviewed a British sailor whose ship was sunk in the Atlantic in WW2. He was rescued and taken to Puerto Rico where he had to buy new clothes. He described buying what he called a 'beach suit' (in blue with white stripes) which was designed to be worn without a shirt in daytime, and with a shirt underneath in the evenings. The casual suit just reminded of that and thus I wanted to know more about casual summer suit styles.

He told me he wore it with a broad brimmed straw hat and spectators. When he left Puerto Rico to travel to New York, someone gave him a white tuxedo to wear on evenings out in New York. What I like about his story is that at the time he was just 17 years old. For a seventeen year old English boy (especially one who lived in a mining community) to be dressed like that in 1942 would have been incredible. Unfortunately, his ship was sunk on the way home and he lost all his new clothes.

However, he told me that he ended up back at the Seaman's Mission in New York where he was ushered into a room filled with suits, hats, shirts, overcoats and shoes (which had been donated for distressed seamen) and told to help himself. Imagine how many 'Holy Grail' items must have been in that room!

 

[herringbonekid]

let's not forget the Beatles collarless / lapel-less suits:

http://beatlesuits.com/images/beatles5990.jpg

actually, let's forget them.