Overcoat for Black Tie?

[AEF17]

Yet another question about black tie, this time with outerwear.

For black tie, is it absolutely necessary that the overcoat have a chesterfield collar? Also, must the overcoat be black?

I have, confusingly enough:

--a black double-breasted overcoat from the 1930's or early 1940's with very wide lapels, but no Chesterfield collar.

--a gray double-breasted overcoat from the same time period, same lapel width, with a Chesterfield collar.

What would have been permissable "back then," and what can I, living in a podunk area of PA where probably no one even has this combination, wear so as to "do it right?" I really don't fancy looking for a vintage, black double-breasted overcoat with a Chesterfield collar. It gets ridiculous after awhile.

Please note that I really don't care for the modern "topcoat" look, with the notched lapels. Just not for me, unless I could find peak lapels. So easy, of course.

 

[rocketeer]

Please note that I really don't care for the modern "topcoat" look, with the notched lapels. Just not for me, unless I could find peak lapels. So easy, of course.

Like this?

http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2012/10/dropping-knowledge-the-chesterfield.html

Or this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chesterfield-Velvet-Collar-Coat-Topcoat-Overcoat-Gray-/280945969597

OK not black tie but it's the best I can do.

Not really up on overcoats so hoping to learn something myself as I have just purchased a covert coat in taupe with brown velvet collar, single breasted. I needed something smart but light for events other than funerals, so went for this. Most wearers wear them over suits but I was advised by the tailor that these are very 'in' when being worn with jeans as well.
J

 

[Fastuni]

For black tie the overcoat ought to be black, charcoal or midnight-blue.
A Chesterfield velvet collar is optional, but not essential. You could also wear a versatile Paletot without sportive details like patch pockets or full belts and only subtle fabric weaves. Equally good for day- and eveningwear.

An exception is black tie in a ressort setting. At least in Europe it was worn there also with a more sportive camelhair coat.

Both coats you have (first sounds like the dark Paletot I described) seem to be suited for black tie. I'd personally go with the first.

 

[rocketeer]

An exception is black tie in a ressort setting. At least in Europe it was worn there also with a more sportive camelhair coat.

Hi, I also am a fan of the camel hair coat, can you still buy the double breasted kind, bellow knee length, with the wrap over belt? New?
there is a shop in Paris with 100s of the things but the shop owner has a passion for heavy cuban cigars and the air is thick with the smoke.
John

 

[Two Types]

How about this one - double breasted with velvet collar:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vtg-1930s...n_s_Vintage_Coats_Jackets&hash=item4d08b78f95

 

[dhermann1]

I think if you look back at movies of the 30s and 40s, you'll find much less rigid adhesion to any rule than has been mentioned so far. An awful lot of the time a man will wear a plain trenchcoat over a black tie ensemble. I have a double breasted gray top coat that I sometimes wear, but I've also worn the trench, as well.
But I do think the nice Chesterfield would be necessary for white tie.

 

[Peacoat]

For black tie the overcoat ought to be black, charcoal or midnight-blue.
A Chesterfield velvet collar is optional, but not essential. You could also wear a versatile Paletot without sportive details like patch pockets or full belts and only subtle fabric weaves. Equally good for day- and eveningwear.

An exception is black tie in a ressort setting. At least in Europe it was worn there also with a more sportive camelhair coat.

Both coats you have (first sounds like the dark Paletot I described) seem to be suited for black tie. I'd personally go with the first.

I agree about the color. A dark overcoat without the Chesterfield collar can be worn with black tie, in podunk, as well as not so podunk locations.

Also agree with dhermann1 about the Chesterfield with white tie, but that isn't your problem right now.