Shirt proportions to suit my body type?

[Jovan]

Hey, I need a little help. I'm getting a bespoke shirt or two online this year, and want to know what collar height, point length, and other details would suit me. I'm 6'1 and fairly thin with broad shoulders. I've heard of heightening the collar a bit to proportion better against a long neck, but I'm not sure what to make of other things. I know I want a trimmer fit than I find off the rack, but not overly tight either. If it helps, my first purchase will be the quintessential white oxford button down.

Thanks.

 

[Jovan]

Um... anyone?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I can help you with the collar proportions. Since your neck is long, a higher collar is a good idea. Meanwhile, the proportions of the front of your collar will depend on the shape of your face.


Do you have a round face? A square face? An oval (heart-shaped) face? A long face? The rounder or more square the face, the deeper and sharper the "v" of the collar should be. (By "v", I mean the exposed area of your neck where your Adam's apple sits.) If your face is long, then the "v" should be wider. In general, spread collars look better on gents with long faces, while downward-pointing collars are best with wide, round faces. The bigger your head is, the bigger the collar flaps should be. As for exact measurements, that is up to the shirtmaker. He will (or should!) determine the dimensions in accordance with the dimensions of your head and neck.

.

 

[Jovan]

Thanks for the insight. Here's a picture, if it helps.

 

[manton]

You can take a big collar. It's hard to guess numbers just based on a photo, but possibly as much as 2" high in back and 1.5" in front. I would go for long points, 3.5", maybe more. Medium spread, opening around 120 degrees (i.e., not an extreme cutaway, but not a point either).

 

[Jovan]

Thanks, Manton. I don't know if I'd get them that long though -- I'm not necessarily going for a '30s or '40s style.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Jovan, I see that you have an angular, broad face a strong jawline and cheekbones. IMO, a fairly high collar with a medium-to-deep "v" will keep your face from looking broader than it really is. (Optical illusions can work for you and against you ) Consider getting a collar whose flaps are long but not overly big. I'd stay away from a spread (cutaway) collar.

.

 

[Jovan]

Manton? Did you mean to address me instead?

As for the medium spread, that's what I'm a fan of with regular collars, so that's good to know I can work it. This one is damn near perfect I think, but could be a bit taller. (Jeez, my hair was SHORT last year.)

Anything you recommend for a button down collar besides adjusting the proportions of the points and height? I'll get a picture of me in one if it helps.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Manton? Did you mean to address me instead?

Sorry about that! :eusa_doh:

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Wow! That second photo looks different from the first. Your face isn't particularly wide. Nix the pointy collar flaps; the regular collar you have on looks just right. As you say, it should be higher, that's all. If only President Bashar al-Assad of Syria would do the same ...

 

[Jovan]

Egads, that man's neck is long! He needs an adjustment more like a full inch or so.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The right collar height would really help to balance him out.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I just think he needs to pull in his neck.

It's unfortunate that to get a high collar nowaday you mostlikely need to go custom for it not to droop.

 

[Jay]

I just think he needs to pull in his neck.

It's unfortunate that to get a high collar nowaday you mostlikely need to go custom for it not to droop.

A bit off topic, but do all famous journalist/writers have a rulebook to follow on dressing differently? Is it a gimmick or what? I keep thinking of Hunter Thompson and another whose name escapes me...