Simmons Bilt Statesman

[lina]

That's a shorter jacket, looks like it's only waist length, but yes, there's similarity with the pocket design. The line of the pocket flap of the Stateseman isn't curved, like on this one, but otherwise, they're quite similar. The button being on the corner of the pocket flap, rather than centered, seems like a stylistic touch, but I'm not sure if there's any practical purpose to it. What's your finding there? Does it make the pocket flap work better, or would a centered button have been more practical?

I discovered that corner button on vintage jackets that had the button flaps combined with (over the top of) handwarmers. I think originally they were functional in order to allow you to slip your hands in without having to unbutton the flaps; but it would still keep the flaps basically closed. Attaching here a pic of Terry's Roughwear (still one of my favorite jackets ever), which has the sort of layout I am talking about, though with a zip front of course.

For my own purposes, I just liked the off set look. I had thought about going with no button at all, but Dave though the flaps might pop up too much with something to hold them down. In any case, really like how it turned out.

 

[Guppy]

Oh, yeah. It's obvious the purpose of the corner button here. And it looks awesome.

 

[Guppy]

I mean, it feels about the same weight as my Aero CXL FQHH jackets. I haven't taken any precise measurements.

Update: absolute weight of the jacket is 7.5 lbs, making it one of my heavier jackets. Being a mid-length, 30" jacket, of course there's more material. The thickness of the leather is substantial, I would guess likely 3.0 - 3.5 oz.

Update 2: I've acquired some calipers and if I'm measuring right, the leather is about 1.6mm thick. So, good stuff!

 

[Guppy]

Fit pics today:

 

[ton312]

Fit looks pretty good, maybe 1 size too big, especially in the back. Sleeve length is too long...when the time comes

 

[Guppy]

Fit looks pretty good, maybe 1 size too big, especially in the back. Sleeve length is too long...when the time comes
View attachment 139055

The back does look a bit big -- waist adjusters would help, I think. But I think it's OK for an overcoat, and I'm hoping that the sleeves will shorten a bit as creases develop. I'll see again when it comes time to wear a bulky sweater under it. So many of my leather jackets don't accommodate sweaters.

 

[ton312]

The back does look a bit big -- waist adjusters would help, I think. But I think it's OK for an overcoat, and I'm hoping that the sleeves will shorten a bit as creases develop. I'll see again when it comes time to wear a bulky sweater under it. So many of my leather jackets don't accommodate sweaters.

In the event your mind changes....you know where to find me.
But I hear you. You could easily treat it as an over coat and just layer up for harsh Midwestern winters under it.

Or sell it to me.

 

[Sloan1874]

From the looks of those sleeves, I don't think those sleeves are going to shorten to much further than they already have. To me it's just oversized and in your position I would be seriously considering flipping.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I agree with Sloan. Sleeves will never shorten much more and, sadly, it just doesn't fit.

 

[Jejupe]

The back does look a bit big -- waist adjusters would help, I think. But I think it's OK for an overcoat, and I'm hoping that the sleeves will shorten a bit as creases develop. I'll see again when it comes time to wear a bulky sweater under it. So many of my leather jackets don't accommodate sweaters.

i'd give it a try with a thick sweater. My experience is that if sleeve length and fit are just right with a shirt, it won't be so with a thicker layer under it. That said, it might be that sleeves would still be too long for my taste even with a sweater.

 

[zebedee]

It's not an exact fit, but I've got a used Aero with similarly long sleeves. To hell with pedanticism, say I: wear the damn thing with a sweater and be happy. I think it looks great.

 

[Carlos840]

To me it looks so long you have crossed into "looks like you are wearing somebody else's jacket" territory...
I don't think the bottom of the coat should reach lower than the crotch of your pants as it currently does, the sleeves are a good 2" too long too and i doubt you will see much shrinking.
Nice design though!

 

[marmalademan]

It does look like a nice coat, alas one that was made for a way taller dude than you.

IDK, if you had a few inches taken off the sleeves maybe the body length is not such a disaster?

But probably you ought to be adding it to your menagerie and looking for something else that's shorter

 

[jacketjunkie]

It does look like a nice coat, alas one that was made for a way taller dude than you.

IDK, if you had a few inches taken off the sleeves maybe the body length is not such a disaster?

But probably you ought to be adding it to your menagerie and looking for something else that's shorter

I believe Steve does most test jackets such as this coat in his own size. I met him. He's tall and he can bench numbers larger than I can count to.

It's a very nice coat and it's very helpful OP posted fit pictures, but I'm inclined to agree it's too large. Have it re-tailored or move it on imho.

 

[Guppy]

Well, it's sweater weather! 46F, damp, and wonderful out here in Cleveland.

I put on my favorite bulky sweater, and tried the jacket on again, and as I suspsected, the sweater fills it out and it fits excellent. The sleeves ride up higher, so now they reach my first thumb knuckle, rather than coming down too far, and I think this is going to be my winter jacket this year. I'll have to get some new fit pics, but I don't have a photographer handy this weekend, so it might be some time before I am able to do it.

Sorry, @ton312. Maybe they'll make you one if you ask?

 

[ton312]

Well, it's sweater weather! 46F, damp, and wonderful out here in Cleveland.

I put on my favorite bulky sweater, and tried the jacket on again, and as I suspsected, the sweater fills it out and it fits excellent. The sleeves ride up higher, so now they reach my first thumb knuckle, rather than coming down too far, and I think this is going to be my winter jacket this year. I'll have to get some new fit pics, but I don't have a photographer handy this weekend, so it might be some time before I am able to do it.

Sorry, @ton312. Maybe they'll make you one if you ask?

Oh you'll come to your senses soon enough for me to just wait, I suspect.
I once owned a size 48" LW...but I don't anymore.

 

[Sloan1874]

For me, FQHH works best when it's just big enough to manage a sweater but no more - it means you spread the weight of it over the body. Too much loose heavy leather means you're carrying the bulk of the weight on your shoulders and it becomes exhausting after a while - I had an Highwayman that was beautiful cherry cordovan colour, but it was torture to wear for any length of time.

 

[Edward]

I find it less about the weight and more the drape.... IMO, heavier hides look great on an mc style, or a jacket cut snug like an inter-war halfbelt, but something boxier like a HWM visually benefits from a softer drape.

 

[Guppy]

I find it less about the weight and more the drape.... IMO, heavier hides look great on an mc style, or a jacket cut snug like an inter-war halfbelt, but something boxier like a HWM visually benefits from a softer drape.

It's still pretty stiff, but I can tell it's breaking in quickly, and will be a lot more flexible and the drape will improve as time goes on. This may in turn exacerbate the sleeve length issue... I'll keep evaluating it, but so far I still like it.

 

[Bobby Peru]

It's still pretty stiff, but I can tell it's breaking in quickly, and will be a lot more flexible and the drape will improve as time goes on. This may in turn exacerbate the sleeve length issue... I'll keep evaluating it, but so far I still like it.

If the sleeves end up being too short to your liking even after creasing from wear and the jacket is a 'keeper,' it's worth considering professionally shortening them. 'Keeper...' how many of those have we let go over the years though?