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Underwelt vs. Overwelt

dnjan

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What comments do people have on underwelts versus overwelts?

From my limited experience, it would seem that an underwelt would allow water to run off better when caught in the rain, while an overwelt "looks" better to most people looking up at your hat brim (which holds true for most people unless you are really short and/or they are really tall). Also, an overwelt snap-brim hat looks better from behind than an underwelt snap-brim.

Other comments/opinions?
 

zetwal

I'll Lock Up
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4,343
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Texas
Your comments (that overwelt looks better than underwelt when viewed from the back, that underwelt looks better than overwelt when viewed from above, etc) assume that the welted edge looks better if the welt fold is not visible.

I personally don't see things the same way. I believe that the welt fold itself provides a contrasting boarder detail that some find attractive - sort of like cuffs on a trouser leg or shirt sleeve.
 

billyspew

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London, United Kingdom, United Kingdom
zetwal said:
Your comments (that overwelt looks better than underwelt when viewed from the back, that underwelt looks better than overwelt when viewed from above, etc) assume that the welted edge looks better if the welt fold is not visible.

I personally don't see things the same way. I believe that the welt fold itself provides a contrasting boarder detail that some find attractive - sort of like cuffs on a trouser leg or shirt sleeve.

Also depends what kind of stitching the welt has - I've seen some with some nice double row stitching.
 

MattJH

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I personally prefer a raw-edge look, so when possible, I avoid the overwelt. My first and only Art Fawcett VS has an underwelt because of it -- it's his lightweight felt, so I wanted some additional stability to the brim without the evidence of it being visible while being worn.
 

Dewhurst

Practically Family
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653
Location
USA
The lip of the hemmed or welted edge acting as a dam is fairly obvious. But the severity of the damming process would depend on how thick the felt is. In most cases, it would be more or less inconsequential.

Now, as for personal preferences. I like the edge hemmed above and below. I also like a basic raw edge. I am crazy for whip-stitched raw edge brims, these always look really classy. An edge bound in grosgrain looks great too. They all work for me.
 

jimmy the lid

I'll Lock Up
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5,647
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USA
My Mallory Nokabout has an underwelt. What I really like about it is that it gives the top of the brim a kind of faux Guild edge look, which I think looks really sharp:

Left-7.jpg



Cheers,
JtL
 

dnjan

One Too Many
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Location
Seattle
jimmy the lid said:
My Mallory Nokabout has an underwelt. What I really like about it is that it gives the top of the brim a kind of faux Guild edge look, which I think looks really sharp:
Yes, I'm fond of the cavanaugh/guild edge as well, especially as I prefer a 2" snap-brim. Hence my initial observation about an overwelt looking better from behind. The brown Dobbs I normally wear (unless it is warm enough to justify a straw) ends up being almost flat-brimmed in front while the sides and especially the back definitely curl up. So the overwelt on me looks mostly like a cavanaugh edge except to very tall people.
 

HarpPlayerGene

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4,682
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North Central Florida
My favorite style is a raw edge brim. I just like that sharpness. But I'm very glad to own certain models of hats that have all other variations of brim treatments. As far as over -vs- under; I'd generally lean to the underwelt. My Stetson Flagship is, however, an exception to that. :)
 

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