Vintage Excelled motorcycle jacket -- keep or return? (photo heavy)

[Gamma68]

Today, I received a vintage Excelled jacket that I won in an eBay auction. It's my first "Perfecto-style" jacket. Got it at a very good price, around 50 smackers.

There are some issues not revealed in the original listing, and I'm not sure which direction I want to take: keep or return. Hoping the good folks here can add their two cents.

First, fit pics. I think shoulders, chest and sleeves are really good. How is the length?

The main zipper is an Ideal. The sleeve zips are YKK. Do the zips, main label or belt buckle help in indicating when this jacket was made?

Now for condition issues. There are mold or mildew spots all over this jacket. Some areas are worse than others...

Behind the main zip:

Under both collar flaps:

Under the coin pocket flap:

These next issues bother me most -- leather cracking at the back of the collar along the top of the fold (two pics):

...and leather wear / flaking along the top edge of the belt:

A minor rip on the interior lining:

The leather overall is supple and doesn't feel brittle. However, this jacket is dirty and was obviously not stored properly or maintained with care. Can anyone tell me what kind of leather it is? I'm not experienced enough to know for sure. It does have a distinct leather scent that is not like my steerhide or cowhide jackets.

If you guys think the fit is right, I'm not opposed to putting some elbow grease into this jacket and attempting to clean it. But if you guys are concerned about the mildew (won't come out) and if the leather cracks at the rear collar and flaking along the belt are indicative of more problems to come, then I'll seek a return.

Yes, I acknowledge that in the world of leather jackets, 50 clams is cheap (ya get what ya pay for). And it's also not new or a recently made jacket. But I also want to enjoy wearing a jacket that is reasonably clean. If the leather cracks are considered acceptable for its age, I'm cool with that.

I have Lexol and Pecard's antique leather dressing. I wonder if this is a candidate for the washing machine, because I've seen some mildew spotting on the interior pockets. However, I don't want to cause more cracking/flaking.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[Butch_Coolidge]

I think the jacket fits you well. There are places that can clean, condition and fix some minor issues if needed. As far as condition, it's old. As you said, it was not taken care of too well. You could always get a new one, but you would be putting up more money and have to break it in.


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[Monitor]

Beautiful jacket! No clue how old it is. Probably 80's. The belt buckle is so nice!

In any case, the mildew is very easily cleanable. You should be able to just wipe it off but it will definitely come down with saddle soap or a leather cleaner. Or better yet, alcohol. That's what I've got experience with and it works like a charm. Any alcoholic solution will do. Just mix pure alcohol or vinegar with water and wipe the entire jacket down with velvet - yes, I kid you not, use velvet! It's get the job done better than any other fabric! It somehow literally rejuvenates the stuff. So, clean it very thoroughly, round motions and all... And should be as good as it will ever be!

No need for professional cleaners.

 

[Fonzie]

It fits you well so I would keep it, then put it in the washing machine (on cold) and dry it flat in the sun. It will get rid of the mould and smells. For $50 it's a cheap option and no harm done, if you want to explore this style instead of spending top dollars and then realising you don't wear it enough.
It is what you wear with that jacket that will make it work or not, it is not a style that you can just grab and go unless you're a biker.
Those jeans for example don't suit the style of the jacket IMO.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Nice fitting jacket with some interesting details. I particularly like the almost-vertical pockets which give the jacket a 'vertical' appearance.

Any alcoholic solution will do. Just mix pure alcohol or vinegar with water and wipe the entire jacket down...

I've never done this, but my instinct tells me to make sure the mix is mostly water...

 

[Butch_Coolidge]

Beautiful jacket! No clue how old it is. Probably 80's. The belt buckle is so nice!

In any case, the mildew is very easily cleanable. You should be able to just wipe it off but it will definitely come down with saddle soap or a leather cleaner. Or better yet, alcohol. That's what I've got experience with and it works like a charm. Any alcoholic solution will do. Just mix pure alcohol or vinegar with water and wipe the entire jacket down with velvet - yes, I kid you not, use velvet! It's get the job done better than any other fabric! It somehow literally rejuvenates the stuff. So, clean it very thoroughly, round motions and all... And should be as good as it will ever be!

No need for professional cleaners.

Well said. My comment was paramount to spraying Windex on your arm to cure a medical ailment. You obviously know your stuff. I don't think I would ever risk a washing machine though. [emoji15]


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[Guppy]

Today, I received a vintage Excelled jacket that I won in an eBay auction. It's my first "Perfecto-style" jacket. Got it at a very good price, around 50 smackers.

There are some issues not revealed in the original listing, and I'm not sure which direction I want to take: keep or return. Hoping the good folks here can add their two cents.

First, fit pics. I think shoulders, chest and sleeves are really good. How is the length?

The main zipper is an Ideal. The sleeve zips are YKK. Do the zips, main label or belt buckle help in indicating when this jacket was made?

Now for condition issues. There are mold or mildew spots all over this jacket. Some areas are worse than others...

Behind the main zip:

Under both collar flaps:

Under the coin pocket flap:

These next issues bother me most -- leather cracking at the back of the collar along the top of the fold (two pics):

...and leather wear / flaking along the top edge of the belt:

A minor rip on the interior lining:

The leather overall is supple and doesn't feel brittle. However, this jacket is dirty and was obviously not stored properly or maintained with care. Can anyone tell me what kind of leather it is? I'm not experienced enough to know for sure. It does have a distinct leather scent that is not like my steerhide or cowhide jackets.

If you guys think the fit is right, I'm not opposed to putting some elbow grease into this jacket and attempting to clean it. But if you guys are concerned about the mildew (won't come out) and if the leather cracks at the rear collar and flaking along the belt are indicative of more problems to come, then I'll seek a return.

Yes, I acknowledge that in the world of leather jackets, 50 clams is cheap (ya get what ya pay for). And it's also not new or a recently made jacket. But I also want to enjoy wearing a jacket that is reasonably clean. If the leather cracks are considered acceptable for its age, I'm cool with that.

I have Lexol and Pecard's antique leather dressing. I wonder if this is a candidate for the washing machine, because I've seen some mildew spotting on the interior pockets. However, I don't want to cause more cracking/flaking.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

First, it looks like it fits you very well.

I'm not sure what you can do about the mold and mildew, others here may be more knowledgeable. My hunch is that it's not salvageable, but I don't have a great deal of experience with that problem. My biggest worry would be that the mold could be "contagious" and spread to your other jackets. Definitely don't store it with any other leather garments until you are certain that the mold is dead.

$50 ain't much, but the fact that the issues were not disclosed by the seller ahead of time makes me think you should return it, if only out of principle and to keep sellers honest. They absolutely should have disclosed it, and probably shouldn't have bothered to sell it in that condition.

 

[ton312]

Fit looks great and the Art Deco belt buckle alone is really something else and not standard but def a custom add on. The mold would not make me happy. That absolutely should've been revealed in the listing. Mold can be difficult to fully remove and often leaves a lingering odor that is next to impossible to fully remove. Does it smell?
I personally would probably opt to return based on the undisclosed fungus. These aren't rare jackets and for a similar price you can find another without these issues. Tell the seller you wish to return it and offer him $10 for the buckle and put that on your next one.

 

[ProteinNerd]

The impression I had was that mould is almost impossible to completely get rid of once it's taken hold of a material like leather that is organic and porous. I could be wrong, I've never really looked into it before, it's just the general impression I had of mould. There are houses that literally have to be demolished because of mould infestations and subsequent health risks.....

It maybe as easy to remove as suggested above. Do some research on google. Personally I'd be inclined to return it, that's an issue that clearly was omitted by the seller just so it would sell.....and why the hell didn't they try to remove it before posting? I ALWAYS give things a clean etc before selling and posting!

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks to everyone for all the comments. I'm leaning toward returning this jacket.

I am disappointed that the seller didn't bother to give this jacket a wipe down, let alone disclose the mold issue. ProteinNerd makes a good point about leather as an organic and porous material. I could give cleaning a shot, but would I ever feel confident that all the mold is gone? What's inside the lining? The jacket doesn't have a moldy or musty smell, by the way.

Here's what Pecards says about cleaning mold from leather:

Mold is caused by keeping the leather in a damp environment. Many people think that storing their leather in plastic will protect it, but in reality, it is a sure way to encourage mold growth.

Move your leather to a dry place and give it time to dry completely. (Avoid putting it near a heating source or in direct sunlight as both things can damage leather.)

Once the leather is dry, put on a protective mask (so you don’t breathe in the mold you’re wiping away) and use a cloth or soft bristle brush to wipe off the mold. Working outside or using a vacuum to suck up the spores as you work helps contain the spores. DO NOT use the vacuum directly on the leather as that can damage the leather. When the mold is gone, you can condition your leather with Pecard.

Then there's the issue of the cracked leather. I also don't think the belt itself is original. I can only buckle it at the first hole, and it's definitely not because it's cinched tight against my waist. The buckle is cool, and crusty.

I'm still curious about the type of leather this jacket is made from. Can anyone tell from the photos?

 

[navetsea]

return it.
white mold I read somewhere is not dangerous compared to black fungus to your health.
however the leather looks cheap. (the creasing lines none of them looks natural, probably cowhide with thick paint made it technically half plastic)

 

[ton312]

Thanks to everyone for all the comments. I'm leaning toward returning this jacket.

I am disappointed that the seller didn't bother to give this jacket a wipe down, let alone disclose the mold issue. ProteinNerd makes a good point about leather as an organic and porous material. I could give cleaning a shot, but would I ever feel confident that all the mold is gone? What's inside the lining? The jacket doesn't have a moldy or musty smell, by the way.

Here's what Pecards says about cleaning mold from leather:

Mold is caused by keeping the leather in a damp environment. Many people think that storing their leather in plastic will protect it, but in reality, it is a sure way to encourage mold growth.

Move your leather to a dry place and give it time to dry completely. (Avoid putting it near a heating source or in direct sunlight as both things can damage leather.)

Once the leather is dry, put on a protective mask (so you don’t breathe in the mold you’re wiping away) and use a cloth or soft bristle brush to wipe off the mold. Working outside or using a vacuum to suck up the spores as you work helps contain the spores. DO NOT use the vacuum directly on the leather as that can damage the leather. When the mold is gone, you can condition your leather with Pecard.

Then there's the issue of the cracked leather. I also don't think the belt itself is original. I can only buckle it at the first hole, and it's definitely not because it's cinched tight against my waist. The buckle is cool, and crusty.

I'm still curious about the type of leather this jacket is made from. Can anyone tell from the photos?

I think that a return is your best bet and you're fully justified in so doing. TBH Excelled are garden variety cow/steer and really man, you can find a very nice one from Sears, Fidelty etc for not a whole heck of a lot more than you paid. Measure this jacket so you know what numbers to look for in the next one. If this were something exceptionally rare I'd get behind a project but I suspect you'll put more effort into this jacket than you need to given the plethora of available comparables.

 

[CRAZYBUBBA]

It fits really well on you

I feel bad for the seller in this case, despite their decision to not clean the jacket or note washable wear.

The jacket is wipeable and it's not hard to bring this to A-1 condition

The creases are par for course, nothing to worry about


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[Gamma68]

I think that a return is your best bet and you're fully justified in so doing. TBH Excelled are garden variety cow/steer and really man, you can find a very nice one from Sears, Fidelty etc for not a whole heck of a lot more than you paid. Measure this jacket so you know what numbers to look for in the next one. If this were something exceptionally rare I'd get behind a project but I suspect you'll put more effort into this jacket than you need to given the plethora of available comparables.

Can you please provide a list of quality comparable brands I should seek? I had thought Excelled was on-par with the Sears Leather Shop brand.

And if anyone here has a comparable languishing in their closet, looking for a loving new home, in solid condition, please PM me.

This Excelled fits well for me and measures chest 21", sleeve 24", shoulders ~18", length 23.75" (25" with the collar).

 

[ton312]

Excelled, Sears (leather Shop era), Fidelity (often unlabeled), Wards all punched out very similar jackets of like quality. The earlier Sears (Hercules) and Wards (California) labels are more expensive and better made. At any point in time there are literally hundreds for sale on ebay, etsy etc. Now that you know what numbers to look for size wise you can spend time filtering your search to that fit.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Some of the Sears and Wards jackets were made by Excelled. Excelled has a small, struggling factory still in Kewanee, IL and they have a little shop there. Sadly, most of what they offer there are all Mall-type jackets not even of their own making. I previously lived about 40 miles from here and visited there a few times. They appear to be based in New York, http://www.excelled.com/

That said, I'd return that jacket. There are plenty of these out there, some better than others. Some of their products I've handled in the store (and owned a similar one to yours as my first motorcycle jacket) are pretty thick steerhide. However many are pretty thin, more fashion or mall-style jackets. I have noted a couple on ebay that indicate they are horsehide, however those are much earlier, such as 50's or 60's time frame.

In any case as has been indicated here, I would send this jacket back to the seller, and look for a better one. The brands suggested are good, you could also try a Harley Davidson "Basic Skins" model as these are Made in USA, good quality Steerhide, and offer a simplified Perfecto style you may find appealing. I've owned one for many years, check out the review here: http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...davidson-basic-skins-2001.85982/#post-2183236

 

[Gamma68]

There seems to be some differences of opinion about Excelled quality, here and in other threads. I recently came across a Perfecto-style Sears Leather Shop jacket in a vintage clothing store. The leather quality seems the same between it and this Excelled. It's not thin by any means. I actually kinda like the leather smell of the Excelled -- it's the mold and cracking that turns me off.

@CRAZYBUBBA, while it may be possible to get the mold off the leather, I don't know what's inside the lining. If I can get a similar jacket in better condition without spending too much more, then I think I'll take that route.

 

[CRAZYBUBBA]

Fair, and the seller failing to note it is not excusable

@CRAZYBUBBA, while it may be possible to get the mold off the leather, I don't know what's inside the lining. If I can get a similar jacket in better condition without spending too much more, then I think I'll take that route.

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[Monitor]

I really haven't had that much trouble with mold on jackets and I've seen a few... And for a $50, that's really a good deal on a good jacket. These jackets go for 'round a hundred $ - usually - but yeah, they're not that hard to find and if you don't wanna bother with it, by all means, send it back... Although I am particularly fond of this one. That belt buckle is so cool and it's just the right length.

These are not the highest quality jackets but are far from bad and while it sucks big time that the seller didn't disclose the jacket is a bio-hazard risk but man, for that kinda money, I'd salvage it. Just spray it with alcohol all over and let it dry. Slap some leather lotion on it afterwards and it should, in my limited experience, be good. Alcohol and bleach especially are excellent against mold. Kills it off instantly!

 

[Gamma68]

These are not the highest quality jackets but are far from bad and while it sucks big time that the seller didn't disclose the jacket is a bio-hazard risk but man, for that kinda money, I'd salvage it. Just spray it with alcohol all over and let it dry. Slap some leather lotion on it afterwards and it should, in my limited experience, be good. Alcohol and bleach especially are excellent against mold. Kills it off instantly!

How would you treat the mold in the pockets and possibly in the lining?