What the heck are top hats made of?

[Alexander Sommerset]

So, I've been looking at getting a vintage top hat, but now I am all kinds of confused.

Many of the ebay sellers are saying they have a "beaver top hat." Others are saying "silk." Still others are using the strange term "beaver silk."

I emailed one guy who called his hat "silk" and he showed me a wikipedia page that said that almost every top hat made after the American civil war is made of silk plush. He had another page showing how the process was done to make the silk plush to look like fur.

So, from what he showed me, it seems that he's right; almost no top hat on ebay is beaver or has any beaver in it at all.

And since there are very few hats out there older than the civil war, I'd guess no top hat is made of beaver.

But the guy also said the brand new toppers being made by Christy's are made of beaver again because the silk plush makers have all disappeared.

However, I just don't know for sure. Do any of you have any more concrete info on this thing?

 

[alanfgag]

I am not familiar with modern hats, but the statement about silk plush for vintage top hats is accurate. None of the top hats advertised on eBay as beaver are beaver. I recently posted a photo of an early 19th century beaver top hat - it is golden and very fleecy. There is a photo of an Argentine nutria Crofut & Knapp top hat that I own on the Toppers Unite thread - which is worth a read.

 

[F. J.]

This may help . . .

Guide to Buying a Top Hat

 

[mayserwegener]

My guess is the Melusine that is being used today for higher end Top Hats is Hare or Hare / Rabbit fur based. As far as I know the last company making Silk Top Hats was P. & C. Habig Wien (see 1975 article below). I have no idea what happened to the equipment and Silk Plush stock (assuming there was any left) when P. & C. Habig Wien went out of business in the late 1980s. Christys' came across a stock of Silk Plush a couple years ago but have no idea of the current status.

Circa 1980 Silk Top Hat made by P. & C. Habig Wien

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/5-p-c-habig-hutfabrik/page-5#entry1285

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I don't have any information on history of top hats but I just made myself a nice short crown (4 inch) top hat out of 100% beaver and it is awesome! I also have two in progress that are made out of rabbit for my 15 year old daughter. I will try to remember to post some pictures tonight when I get home. If you can find yourself a beaver top hat I would recommend it.

 

[alanfgag]

If you can find yourself a beaver top hat I would recommend it.

They are hard to come by.

 

[alanfgag]

Here is a comparison of two early 20th century top hats - one covered with silk plush, one with Argentine nutria.

 

[F. J.]

They are hard to come by.

If you’re looking for an authentic 19th century beaver hat, I am told Dirty Billy’s Hats is the place.

(Model C28)

Although, unless you’re a Civil War re-enactor, it is probably less than practical compared to the modern melusine ones, especially since the taller Christy’s models can be found for about the same price.

 

[mayserwegener]

From what I have read the Beaver felt was applied in sheets similar to how Silk Plush is applied (similar construction). Maybe Alan can confirm? Also a glossy / shiny finish was achieved (similar to Velour) so different than Alan's example. This is from a German source.

 

[Joao Encarnado]

Alan, that topper is marvelous

 

[alanfgag]

The golden beaver top hat above is from a display of period clothing at the Genesee Country Museum in Leroy, NY. I've seen one or two come up for sale on eBay over the years.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

They are hard to come by.

True, they are hard to find. I am fortunate enough to have access to a five piece puzzle block from time to time. Sorry about the bad contrast in the images below. It was rush picture job at work from my phone.

Details about my hat:
Material: 100% Beaver
Crown: 4 inches
Brim: 2 5/8 inches
Brim Curl: 5/8 inch curling shackle
Brim Shape: Finished with hand shaping
Ribbon: Approximately 25 ligne; bow includes ocean blue accent color

Two others that are in progress are 5 inches and 5.5 inches tall respectively. Those are Rabbit for my 15 year old daughter. Colors are (Kelly Green and Orange). Green because she asked for a Leprechaun Hat, Orange and Black are her High School colors so the orange one is to wear to her schools sporting events. The orange one has a long hair shag finish on it. Once I finish I will post those as well.

 

[RJR]

Very cool,Vito.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Thanks RJR!

 

[Joao Encarnado]

I hate the "victorian brim" on top hats.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I hate the "victorian brim" on top hats.

LOL. Don't worry, there will be another one without that brim. Practicing, shaping. I do get asked about it quite a bit by strangers though. People are very interested.

 

[mayserwegener]

As I mentioned the Beaver felt was applied in sheets. The construction method was similar to a Silk Plush Top Hat. Also the finishing technique was similar to Velour.

This video shows how Silk Top Hats were contructed. Spoorenberg is mentioned in the article I posted above.

 

[alanfgag]

That's wonderful Steve... thank you!

 

[Strapped-4-Cache]

I'd appreciate a translation of the text in the film. Seeing the work being done is great, but knowing more information from the description wold be helpful.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Hi Alanfgag

Any chance you could post some specs on this nice golden Top Hat? Looking for:

• Crown Height
• Brim Width
• Does the crown flare/slope outward as the crown gets higher?

I would like to try and make a block similar to that over the next 3 months and see about possibly making a hat based on that. Although my little Jiffy steamer won't be able to handle it, I will have to upgrade to a steam generator.