The Real Mccoy's Buco J-22 or J-24

[markstachow]

I'm looking at purchasing a Real Mccoy's Buco J-22 or J-24. I looked online and researched there are differences, by asking the vendor. The obvious difference is the lining, the J-22 has wool and J-24 has a padded lining. The less noticeable difference is the jackets finishes. Both are vegetable tanned but the J-22 has an aniline finish and the J-24 has a pigment finish.

I've read that the J-24 is the most popular of the line as well, but not sure about why?

Which of the liners is better and which of the finishes for the J-22 vs. the J-24?

Please let me know what you think.

 

[Superfluous]

Wool liners can make a leather jacket a bit too warm for milder weather. Therefore, I prefer non-wool liners.

 

[zhz]

I love J-24.

 

[markstachow]

That's 2 votes for the J-24 over the J-22. Does anyone know about the finishes on the horse hide though? Which is better or worse?

 

[Monitor]

J-22 for me, though it's hard to decide when it comes to Real McCoy's. I mean...




I've heard you have to be careful about the size, though, as these run very small. . .

 

[Blackadder]

They do indeed run small. In addition to the differences you mentioned, there is also a small difference in the shoulder. The slope is greater on J-22's shoulder. The J-22's wool lining is actually thinner and lighter. I myself prefer J-24 because I am kind of allergic to wool. There might be a reason why the J-24 is more popular. I read here that the original J-22 is supposed to have only one zip pocket in the back in stead of two. If that is true, that would make the RM J-22 less accurate than their J-24.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...-the-difference-between-Buco-j22-and-buco-j24

 

[markstachow]

Monitor that jacket is beautiful, is it a J-24, it looks like it without wool? I was told the J-22 runs one size smaller than the J-24. So if I wear a J-22 in a 42, I should get the J-24 in a size 40. Does anyone know about the difference in the leather finishes of the two? They look different in photos and I was told the J-22 is aniline finish vs. the J-24 has a pigment finish.

Based on everyone's input, I'm leaning towards the J-24. So the J-24 is warmer and heaver than the J-22?

Thank you for all your comments guys!

 

[Tarwater]

I suppose it depends largely on your purpose and what holes, if any, it will fill in your wardrobe/collection. Personally I'd be more likely to veer toward the nylon...rayon? Whichever. But given the distinctly Japanese sizing I'd shop for the cut and finish first. A lining can always be changed down the line but fit is forever.

 

[Monitor]

Monitor that jacket is beautiful, is it a J-24, it looks like it without wool? I was told the J-22 runs one size smaller than the J-24. So if I wear a J-22 in a 42, I should get the J-24 in a size 40. Does anyone know about the difference in the leather finishes of the two? They look different in photos and I was told the J-22 is aniline finish vs. the J-24 has a pigment finish.

Based on everyone's input, I'm leaning towards the J-24. So the J-24 is warmer and heaver than the J-22?

Mark, yep, that's a Real McCoy J-24 with rayon lining. Not sure about colour but it's an incredibly beautiful jacket nonetheless...

But really, be careful about the size. I've read about it here, in the Lounge, how some members weren't too happy with how small these jackets run, especially in the sleeve and body length, which is exactly why I've mostly given up on them. I need at least 26 inches in sleeve length so I definitely don't feel like taking a risk without trying the jacket first. What Tarwater said; you can and eventually will change the lining anyway but having such jacket tailored after you find out it doesn't fit... Well, that's just no good.

I don't know how warm rayon in their jackets is but yeah, typically, in war weather, I'm finding rayon lining to be a little bit warmer than just plain cotton/wool lining. Haven't noticed any significant difference when it's cold, though...

 

[markstachow]

Is there anything better than Real Mccoy's Buco? I was reading your forums and saw they make tons of repos, such as Diamond Daves and a few more. If I'm going to spend around 3K, I want to make sure it's the best one for the money.

 

[Blackadder]

Is there anything better than Real Mccoy's Buco? I was reading your forums and saw they make tons of repos, such as Diamond Daves and a few more. If I'm going to spend around 3K, I want to make sure it's the best one for the money.

I have the Lost Worlds J-23 and have tried on both the RM Buco J-22 and J-24L. The RM size 38 Buco fits like a size 36 Lewis leather Lightning but the Lewis Leather has longer sleeves. The RM Bucos are slim straight cut that is closer to the fitting of the Lewis Leather than to that of the Schott, Vanson or LW. It is true that the sleeves are short and bear in mind that it is meant to be made for Japanese market. Incidentally, the J-22's thinner lining leaves more room than the J-24. In addition to the cut, another main difference between Buco and LW (and possibly other brands) is that Buco's leather is Brown with Black overdye which is termed as "tea core". The Black overdye is very thin and will fade easily giving the whole jacket a distressed look in very short time (really short). IMHO, the Buco has been re-designed as a repro fashion jacket by RM. It looks great and certainly more fashionable than the bulky wide cut of the other repros (LW for one) but it is not made for riding if that is what you are looking for.

 

[Superfluous]

In addition to the cut, another main difference between Buco and LW (and possibly other brands) is that Buco's leather is Brown with Black overdye which is termed as "tea core". The Black overdye is very thin and will fade easily giving the whole jacket a distressed look in very short time (really short).

RMC offers both black over brown and black/black . . . the black/black will not fade in the manner you describe. I went with the black/black for that exact reason. On the other hand, many prefer the black/brown precisely because it takes on a vintage appearance.

 

[Monitor]

Blackadder and Superfluous, thank you for the info! I'm also in the market for one of the J's and I was seriously considering RMC, but as I do intend to use it on a bike I was wondering, when you say that it isn't made for riding, what exactly do you mean? Hide isn't as thick as on other repros, or is the cut too restrictive?

 

[Blackadder]

RMC offers both black over brown and black/black . . . the black/black will not fade in the manner you describe. I went with the black/black for that exact reason. On the other hand, many prefer the black/brown precisely because it takes on a vintage appearance.

My understanding is that their current line-up only offers black/black for the J-100. May be I am mistaken.

 

[Superfluous]

My understanding is that their current line-up only offers black/black for the J-100. May be I am mistaken.

The initial jacket I saw in February 2014, at Inspiration, was black over brown, and I was given a choice. That may have changed.

 

[Blackadder]

Blackadder and Superfluous, thank you for the info! I'm also in the market for one of the J's and I was seriously considering RMC, but as I do intend to use it on a bike I was wondering, when you say that it isn't made for riding, what exactly do you mean? Hide isn't as thick as on other repros, or is the cut too restrictive?

As said the cut is rather slim, short and more importantly straight. The sleeves are kind of narrow and straight as well. The biker cut like Schott and Vanson narrows down significantly from the chest to waist with plenty of room in the chest area. The more fashionable cut is a straight cut without much narrowing down re body and sleeves e.g. the Lewis Leather slim cut.
Unless you buy 2 size up, I doubt there is enough room in the chest area (I wear size 36 Lewis Leather, Vanson and RM Buco J-100 but I cannot zip up in a size 36 Buco J-24). On the other hand, if you go up two sizes, your waist might be loose.

 

[Blackadder]

The initial jacket I saw in February 2014, at Inspiration, was black over brown, and I was given a choice. That may have changed.

Interesting. The "Deep Black" is offered as a choice for the J-100 but not the J-24 on their official website/web store. The local dealer has stopped ordering from RM since Autumn 2013 and rumour has it that RM is planning to open their official store here. So my information is limited to RM's official website/web store and Rakuten.

 

[markstachow]

I found this dealer for the rmc Buco and see they are about 1,000 USD cheaper, any reviews on them?

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/three-eight/item/rmc-bj9111-031/?s-id=XB_soldout_option

 

[markstachow]

I made up my mind on the J-24, but now reading everyones posts about it being a bit short thinking about the J-24L? It's a few inches longer supposedly, would you guys think that was a better option over the original length? I wish I could try them on, but unfortunately overseas working for the govt.

 

[Blackadder]

I found this dealer for the rmc Buco and see they are about 1,000 USD cheaper, any reviews on them?

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/three-eight/item/rmc-bj9111-031/?s-id=XB_soldout_option

I doubt that three-eight ships directly to US. Vintage Paradise carries Buco J-24 and ships directly overseas. There is now a 8% sales tax in Japan (just raised from 5% since 1/4/2014). The price you see on Rakuten already includes this sales tax. Not all shops on Rakuten offers tax refund but Vintage Paradise does.
J-24L is a bit longer. It depends on how tall you are and the size you wear. Shops on Rakuten post rather accurate measurements. You can take a look at those measurements.