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Five Star Leather Jackets

rockandrollrabbit

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Chicago, IL
Damn, I just realised I think I overdid it on the sleeve length. Jacket has not been shipped yet, hopefully Shawn sees my email before he ships it out tomorrow. I took measurements from a jacket with a very curved sleeve. 5* sleeve is straight. I measured outside the curve which added about 2 inches. Cautionary tale, ask for a picture of how they take sleeve measurements before. Not like I did, after the jacket is already built. Well, hopefully he’ll see my email in time and they can fix it. Otherwise, I’m sure I’ll find someone locally to shorten the sleeves. It’ll be a lot more expensive though.
Looks like he goes from the top of the sleeve stitch straight down the flat front of the sleeve to the middle of the sleeve opening.

This was in an email from him when I inquired about his measurements. Incidentally, I'm getting ready to order his Dubow A-2; I'm going to send him the dull purple knits to use. Can't wait to post it here
 

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Messages
17,181
Location
Chicago
That back looks sweet. Nice teaser. Interested to see how the details pop in a much darker color. That Russet, though not a perfect shade, DID show off the front details pretty well. Hopefully the Seal is still the Deal!! That 26" back length is the ghost I'm always chasing in Vintage pieces. Its the perfect length for me. One of the reasons I am so interested in your projects is that our size preferences seem to be very much the same. Looking forward to seeing this one even though I already know its gonna be bitchen.
It’s essentially the same as the first but I narrowed the cuffs by 1”, threw the all weather collar on it and red quilted lining, seal brown primo goat:
1.0
3C65DD98-B610-4B24-B02B-6A487CDE502E.jpeg

2.0:
3F885557-A99C-4A0A-BD10-EF8D1251BD34.jpeg
3422FEAD-D18B-436A-B2C3-C6098F579509.jpeg
 

Claybertrand

One Too Many
Messages
1,544
It’s essentially the same as the first but I narrowed the cuffs by 1”, threw the all weather collar on it and red quilted lining, seal brown primo goat:
1.0
View attachment 293940
2.0:
View attachment 293941 View attachment 293942


The new jacket looks great man. Hope you get it soon. THE COLLAR, should be a fixture on all your designs!!! Its legendary. I have an old Hercules---the oldest one I have---and it has a luxuriously large collar. I'm gonna measure it up and if its bigger than yours, I may go with it on my jacket. Otherwise its THE TONY COLLAR or bust!!!!!!! Members may recall, it used to be known around here as THE BATES COLLAR......... the nomenclature has evolved with your 5* successes man.

AND the new labels are WAYYYYYY classier. Its surprising how much some small thing like a label can make an item seem of better quality and craftmanship. Certain colors work and certain ones don't. I like the new labels. I mean, they can continue to evolve and change over time and that just adds to the jacket history. Geeks like us will say, "Ohhhhh this is an early 5* with the Red and Blue label!!! This was before the Great Label Upgrade of 2020!!"

Anyway, looking forward to the fit pics on the new Seal Starcadia.
 

rockandrollrabbit

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Chicago, IL

abone

A-List Customer
Messages
429
Location
British Columbia
I've got a couple more designs in my head assuming this first one comes back in good shape. I really like the Cossack design, similar to Aero teamster. I might play with the pockets though and maybe go more G1 style, similar to the Thedi jackets.

Hello, I was wondering if you got around to working with 5* on this type of design? I've been thinking of the same and have discussed with Shawn, a combination of his Cossack but with a different collar and buttons like the pic attached. He says he can do it but I want HH and it's not available yet. Might have to go with one of his existing leathers and therein lies the problem, it's so difficult to choose leathers without seeing them in person.
 

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marker2037

Practically Family
Messages
834
Location
Curacao/NJ, USA
I haven't emailed them yet because I'm not sure I want to go down this rabbit hole currently, but does anyone know if they have access to very light wearing and light colored hides like natural or cream or off-white?
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Hello, I was wondering if you got around to working with 5* on this type of design? I've been thinking of the same and have discussed with Shawn, a combination of his Cossack but with a different collar and buttons like the pic attached. He says he can do it but I want HH and it's not available yet. Might have to go with one of his existing leathers and therein lies the problem, it's so difficult to choose leathers without seeing them in person.

I don't know... over 35 years of jacket buying samples have never been helpful to me. Just my view - you can't tell what jacket will look like or how it will behave. All you get is the color but you are quickly misled by a small piece of leather into thinking it has certain properties which totally are absent when it's actually made into a garment. Best sample is to see an actual jacket before buying, unfortunately.
 

abone

A-List Customer
Messages
429
Location
British Columbia
I don't know... over 35 years of jacket buying samples have never been helpful to me. Just my view - you can't tell what jacket will look like or how it will behave. All you get is the color but you are quickly misled by a small piece of leather into thinking it has certain properties which totally are absent when it's actually made into a garment. Best sample is to see an actual jacket before buying, unfortunately.

Yeah, I agree. The 5* prices are so damn compelling but I realise its a bit of a crap shoot. Design is one thing, but if the leather doesn't work, then the rest doesn't matter much. To me anyway.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Yeah, I agree. The 5* prices are so damn compelling but I realise its a bit of a crap shoot. Design is one thing, but if the leather doesn't work, then the rest doesn't matter much. To me anyway.

Here's how I would approach this. And did. It's easy to overthink a jacket. @ton312 here has a lot of experience with many jackets, makers and leathers. He has demonstrated good taste and judgment. He really likes the seal premium goat. That's enough for me. Tick. Next... :D
 
Messages
17,181
Location
Chicago
That works! Now I gotta re-read the thread and find his jacket in seal premium goat!
I can show you! I have this one, my first HB type jacket:
C095D5EF-9A85-422A-BE88-15ADA474BC94.jpeg
FC7221D9-4425-4083-9F24-1595F2241563.jpeg
3D620EB5-7D52-4B80-9936-3CEFE4DFB98A.jpeg

And the incoming referenced on the previous page. I’ve had the brown steer, red russet, black and seal goat. The seal is the best goat imho by a long shot. The black is nice too (pictured below) but the seal is nicer.
01FCE524-C188-409F-BA1D-8143B7767D04.jpeg
 

abone

A-List Customer
Messages
429
Location
British Columbia
Thanks! That helps a bunch. Those look like thick leathers which surprises me for some reason, always thinking goat is thinner. Do you happen to remember the thickness?
That style is also very similar to my Vanson Oxford, which I love.
Is the first jacket posted an olive colour, or is that deceiving?
The design I am aiming for would look good in a darker reddish brown colour, but not sure Shawn has that right now.
Appreciate the help!
 
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