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The Flathead Rider Jacket (Last Ever?)

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,010
Older FH single riders were a bit shorter, at least one inch shorter by the looks of it:

1699307689884.jpeg

1699307720146.jpeg
 

Jasonissm

Practically Family
Messages
665
I am 100% on the same boat as you are.

I got the hs005 model with a bit different back design than yours.
I had the choice of both 38 and 40 but was much much more encouraged to get the 40 by the guy working there. The 40 fits almost identical as your photo and the 38 makes it look a bit too snug (i could zip up but barely, but the sleeve length on 38 is much nicer imo).

Granted I think the two men working at FH harajuku both wear this jacket a bit larger than I typically see so i can see why he recommended me to get 40.

I've been having remorse ever since I returned from Japan and now I'm just embracing the fact that I can layer a sweater underneath so I can wear it a lot longer during the fall and winter.

I really hope it breaks in nicely and make the sleeve a bit shorter.
Funny, the manager working at FH Harajuku convinced me the 42 (snug and trim fit) was the best size for me (although I agree, just felt a little tight), but that was also because they didn't have any 44 in stock which I suspect was a factor in that call lol
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,010
They also seem to have the pin lock zipper which real mccoys has on their 30s sport jacket
You dodged a ****** on that zipper. The later zippers are much better for daily use. The "Hookless" with the rivets is prone to fail. It screams 1930s as loud as it screams zipper replacement $150. It takes a lot of care and mindfulness to cope with that type of zipper on a daily basis, one small mistake, 150 bucks...
The zippers associated with the 40s jackets like Crown and Conmar are way better zipper by design and in everyday use.
 

mcnuonuo

Familiar Face
Messages
89
The sleeves will definitely get shorter via tunneling as you break it in.

The fit still feels a bit off to me, although I can comfortably layer in mine which I'm hoping will get me to wear it more as winter gets here. I prefer a more vintage length, wheras this has a more modern, longer body - but that makes wearing it with u tucked shirts much nicer.

Got any fit pics?
Here's me with a sweatshirt and a vest inside in 1 celcius weather.

It still bugs me how long the sleeves are when it's just worn over a t-shirt. But I guess the time will come .
 

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attack_decay

One of the Regulars
Messages
148
Here's me with a sweatshirt and a vest inside in 1 celcius weather.

It still bugs me how long the sleeves are when it's just worn over a t-shirt. But I guess the time will come .

Jacket looks good!

I think the sleeves will tunnel as you wear it and it will adapt to your arm length. The thick leather seems to be pretty good at that.

I think this jacket tends to look a bit sloppy when worn unzipped/open which might have something to do with the large collar opening making the shoulders appear even wider when it is unzipped. Wearing it zipped up might prevent the sleeves from moving down your arm quite so far.
That’s a great jacket! Fit looks perfect!

Thanks man, it definitely had a solid break in period where the very smooth, shiny, leather looked unnatural. I'm looking forward to seeing how it evolved with more break-in.
 

mcnuonuo

Familiar Face
Messages
89
Jacket looks good!

I think the sleeves will tunnel as you wear it and it will adapt to your arm length. The thick leather seems to be pretty good at that.

I think this jacket tends to look a bit sloppy when worn unzipped/open which might have something to do with the large collar opening making the shoulders appear even wider when it is unzipped. Wearing it zipped up might prevent the sleeves from moving down your arm quite so far.


Thanks man, it definitely had a solid break in period where the very smooth, shiny, leather looked unnatural. I'm looking forward to seeing how it evolved with more break-in.
I am waiting for the day to come for the tunneling!

And I think you're right. I don't have any other rider style jackets to compare with but the collar does look pretty big sometimes lol.

One thing I don't get from mine (newer version) is how high the bottom-end of the zipper is. It might have something to do with keeping the jacket zipped and sitting down. But it leaves a big bottom hem opened up there.
 

attack_decay

One of the Regulars
Messages
148
I am waiting for the day to come for the tunneling!

And I think you're right. I don't have any other rider style jackets to compare with but the collar does look pretty big sometimes lol.

One thing I don't get from mine (newer version) is how high the bottom-end of the zipper is. It might have something to do with keeping the jacket zipped and sitting down. But it leaves a big bottom hem opened up there.
That's interesting, taking a closer look at your photos, your zipper appears to end much higher than mine. Is yours an older version of the jacket? I'm not sure that I've seen that on other Flathead jackets.
 

sola fide

One of the Regulars
Messages
154
Location
San Fran Bay Area
After visiting Harajuku Flat Head clearly still in business October 2025 the jackets were beautiful so I jumped on one from eBay at a third of the price for new. It will be delivered this Friday in a size 38. I am 5’5 song hope it fits. I tried a Y2 in Ueno, thick tight. I’m not sure what model this is but looks like a HS005 brown with half belt, side adjusters, zippers on sleeves, diagonal zipped hand pockets with ring zipper pulls and a braided ******** main zipper pull. Looks like the latest jackets put braided straps on the hand pockets. I’ve owned a Montgomery Ward horsehide jacket for a few years but wore a couple of times now I want to wear it often and hopefully the Flat Head will fit well too. Supposedly the California edition Montgomery ward is from the late 40s to 50s. The jacket length is 29” so not a waste cut. Fingers crossed the Flat Head fits well.
 

itsme

New in Town
Messages
49
I have a question I’ve been wondering about, since I’ve only worn my jacket 2–3 times for a few hours. The shoulders are quite broad/square — did that loosen up for you over time?

Based on chest measurement I definitely need a 44. Even when I’m standing straight, the shoulders don’t show any wrinkles. However, I notice that when I sit down and bend my arms, the jacket starts to crease at the shoulders.

It’s a bit like those suits with shoulder pads from the ’70s — you know what I mean. Other than that, the jacket fits perfectly.
 

attack_decay

One of the Regulars
Messages
148
I have a question I’ve been wondering about, since I’ve only worn my jacket 2–3 times for a few hours. The shoulders are quite broad/square — did that loosen up for you over time?

Based on chest measurement I definitely need a 44. Even when I’m standing straight, the shoulders don’t show any wrinkles. However, I notice that when I sit down and bend my arms, the jacket starts to crease at the shoulders.

It’s a bit like those suits with shoulder pads from the ’70s — you know what I mean. Other than that, the jacket fits perfectly.
Flat head jackets have wide shoulders compared to the chest size. The shoulders will break in and soften with wear which makes it less noticeable.

I just grabbed some pictures I posted earlier in the thread, but the first picture is with a new jacket, and the pose is intentionally exaggerating the crease from the wide shoulders. The second picture is broken in, but you can still see some shoulder creasing in the arm holding the camera.
1772748989976.jpeg

1772749031171.jpeg
 

itsme

New in Town
Messages
49
Flat head jackets have wide shoulders compared to the chest size. The shoulders will break in and soften with wear which makes it less noticeable.

I just grabbed some pictures I posted earlier in the thread, but the first picture is with a new jacket, and the pose is intentionally exaggerating the crease from the wide shoulders. The second picture is broken in, but you can still see some shoulder creasing in the arm holding the camera.
View attachment 773611
View attachment 773612
Thanks a lot — that looks great and answers my question.
 

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