[Field Leathers] First-time full custom – D-pocket & hide advice needed

[Quan_love_leather]

Dude, you are not a 34. I am 176 cm and weigh 65 kgs, and am 38 right on the nose in Vanson.

Ah I see! I think I’m probably closer to a size 36 then – I have a Schott in size 36 that fits me pretty well.

Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[Carlos840]

The color and detailing on that jacket are incredible – super sharp!
Did you feel like you needed bi-swing back or gussets for better mobility? Or is it already comfortable enough without them?

Bi-swing/gussets don't guarantee better mobility.
The mobility of the LT-B is better than the Trojan, better than the J-24, better than the Buco Ryder, better than the Appalachian, the Speed Demon, better than every other jacket i own.
That pattern doesn't need it.

Edit: if you look at the pics above in the arm pit area you can see there is quite a bit of room there in the back, it's almost like a natural gusset. The biceps area is also pretty large which really helps forward reach.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I’m from My Tho. What city are you at? There are a couple Vietnamese’s on here, I think one in Vietnam and another in OC.

We are going to want to see a fit pic of your tailored 611H. Your height and weight don’t match your measurements. And what’s wrong with your 611H? That’s a black D-pocket, why do you want another D-pocket?

I’m also 175cm and 70kg, I wear 38 US and 40 JP OTR.

I’m from Lam Dong – a mountain province in Vietnam. I’m 173cm tall, 63kg, shoulders 44cm, back length 59cm, sleeves 61cm.

The jacket below is a Schott 611H in size 36 that I had tailored – shortened the body length, adjusted the waist, and sleeves.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Bi-swing/gussets don't guarantee better mobility.
The mobility of the LT-B is better than the Trojan, better than the J-24, better than the Buco Ryder, better than the Appalachian, the Speed Demon, better than every other jacket i own.
That pattern doesn't need it.

Edit: if you look at the pics above in the arm pit area you can see there is quite a bit of room there in the back, it's almost like a natural gusset. The biceps area is also pretty large which really helps forward reach.

That’s actually really interesting – I’ve always spent a lot of time thinking about gussets,
mostly because I’m a bit greedy I want something that fits close to the body, holds a clean shape, but still allows plenty of movement and comfort. Not an easy combo!

 

[red devil]

budget-consciousness… weighing all of these is driving me crazy

I’ll probably have to rule out Langlitz and Lost Worlds – they’re just out of my budget range at this point.

And no, I’m not looking to add armor. I ride casually for daily life – if I go on a proper tour, I’d wear full moto gear anyway.

I think your best bet is Johnson leather, might be worthwhile to give them a call and discuss your requirement. They do full custom and send you a mock up to get the fit how you want it.

That's my riding jacket from them, it was an OTR with forcefield armour added

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I think your best bet is Johnson leather, might be worthwhile to give them a call and discuss your requirement. They do full custom and send you a mock up to get the fit how you want it.

That's my riding jacket from them, it was an OTR with forcefield armour added

View attachment 716513

Cool…
Johnson Leather is actually on my list too. But I think their website might be having issues lately? I’ve had trouble accessing it.

 

[Will Zach]

Cool…
Johnson Leather is actually on my list too. But I think their website might be having issues lately? I’ve had trouble accessing it.

Has been like that for years. You have to call them.

 

[TartuWolf]

I'm having a hard time following this fast moving thread with my currently limited time but unless you're rally set on a d-pocket (which is totally understandable) I'd recommend Vanson E / Highwayman again as a budget option. Easy to find a 34 in JP listings for very cheap. If you truly have a 82cm chest then you're a 34. But if you're also truly 173cm and 63kg then I'm not sure where your weight is as it definitely ain't in the chest. What's your chest vs waist vs hips circumference? I'm 172cm at ~57kg with a 92cm (inhaled) chest and therefore need a 36, but my natural waist is really slim at ~78cm and ~85cm over the belt. That kind of hourglass type body build really benefits from the model E due to the laces - I'm convinced that there is no OTR off the rack jacket on earth that would fit me better because of those laces. But if your weight is located more towards your waist then you won't benefit from laces as much.
My main gripe with the model E is the lengthened and stiffened lower back and extra long sleeves as I don't ride. But those two aspects make the jacket absolutely perfect for riding.
Here's me in the model E size 36:

And for any custom build my personal 1st go to would be Johnson Leathers. TFL has convinced of that.
LW is amazing but super expensive.
I have no interest in JP stuff. Too much of a mine field in terms of cuts and patterns and overall leaning too much into "fancy" category (read overpriced).
Stuff from FL, Aero, Thedi, SB is fantastic but likely not the best for riding.
Vanson is top notch but not sure how custom can you go with them - my dream is to get a custom model E someday.

 

[Will Zach]

1997 Vanson C2 in size 38 on a 176cm, 65 kg guy (me). I think a C2 in size 36 might be perfect on OP.

 

[TartuWolf]

I also think that giving a size 34 (based on your chest) C2 from JP (look for older, talon zipper ones) is a good idea as it's a VERY cheap gamble (we are talking 150-200eur). The main issue with the C2 for is the V taper (I need more of a Y or even a bit )( in terms of shape) and the VERY short length (around 55-56cm typically). And my particular (fancy) specimen also had VERY roomy sleeves, but I'm not sure if that's the rule or exception..
Here's the C2 I had next to my beloved E:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-jacket-appreciation.116356/post-3155085
You can see how much bulkier it is.
But I've also seen some lovely slim C2s like the one @Will Zach has or this lovely example:
https://www.reddit.com/r/leatherjacket/comments/1c81fr5

 

[Will Zach]

I also think that giving a size 34 (based on your chest) C2 from JP (look for older, talon zipper ones) is a good idea as it's a VERY cheap gamble (we are talking 150-200eur). The main issue with the C2 for is the V taper (I need more of a Y or even a bit )( in terms of shape) and the VERY short length (around 55-56cm typically). And my particular (fancy) specimen also had VERY roomy sleeves, but I'm not sure if that's the rule or exception..
Here's the C2 I had next to my beloved E:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-jacket-appreciation.116356/post-3155085
You can see how much bulkier it is.
But I've also seen some lovely slim C2s like the one @Will Zach has or this lovely example:
https://www.reddit.com/r/leatherjacket/comments/1c81fr5

This is our TFL guy, forget his handle atm.

 

[Tom71]

I’m from Lam Dong – a mountain province in Vietnam. I’m 173cm tall, 63kg, shoulders 44cm, back length 59cm, sleeves 61cm.

The jacket below is a Schott 611H in size 36 that I had tailored – shortened the body length, adjusted the waist, and sleeves.
View attachment 716500

In terms of fit, this looks very good to my eye. Would you like to have any major chances to the custom built?

 

[Zoro]

This is our TFL guy, forget his handle atm.

Checking the reddit profile, it says TelemarkTumalo.

 

[Tom71]

I also think that giving a size 34 (based on your chest) C2 from JP (look for older, talon zipper ones) is a good idea as it's a VERY cheap gamble (we are talking 150-200eur). The main issue with the C2 for is the V taper (I need more of a Y or even a bit )( in terms of shape) and the VERY short length (around 55-56cm typically). And my particular (fancy) specimen also had VERY roomy sleeves, but I'm not sure if that's the rule or exception..
Here's the C2 I had next to my beloved E:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-jacket-appreciation.116356/post-3155085
You can see how much bulkier it is.
But I've also seen some lovely slim C2s like the one @Will Zach has or this lovely example:
https://www.reddit.com/r/leatherjacket/comments/1c81fr5

Off topic, but I have to get it out: still shocked that you sold the C2. With the padded shoulders, I thought it looked even better than the E (and man, can you wear the E…!). Also, the length (or lack of it) works much better on you than on me.

 

[TartuWolf]

This is our TFL guy, forget his handle atm.

I know, I also don't remember his TFL name, but his Reddit post is easy for me to find when I look for C2 inspiration (together with your posts!).
@TelemarkTumalo ! This guy also have a crazy nice original J24 (or 22 or 23, don't remember).

 

[TartuWolf]

Off topic, but I have to get it out: still shocked that you sold the C2. With the padded shoulders, I thought it looked even better than the E (and man, can you wear the E…!). Also, the length (or lack of it) works much better on you than on me.

Thanks mate (about the E comment)!
Yes that C2 was one of a kind, but it was "off" enough for me not to enjoy wearing it. In contrast I really really enjoy wearing my E. And that's the main thing right! It went to a nice dude outside of TFL, he even came to Estonia (as a part of a trip) to meet me (my friend who lives in Tallinn to be more exact) to pick it up in person. I really hope he is wearing and enjoying it.
I'm really tempted to alter my E to remove the kidney panel stiffener and shorten the back (and the sleeves), but I'm not sure if I'll ever actually do it. Maybe when the zipper gets toasted and I send the jacket off to replace it.

 

[Zoro]

I disagree, the E is goated and it just fits you like a glove, the padded C2 still falls short despite its uniqueness. If I was in charge of Vanson I would want to place your fit pics in its product page - I know, low bar because the model pics in the Vanson website are quite bad, but I don't think it could be topped how it fits you.

 

[TartuWolf]

I disagree, the E is goated and it just fits you like a glove, the padded C2 still falls short despite its uniqueness. If I was in charge of Vanson I would want to place your fit pics in its product page - I know, low bar because the model pics in the Vanson website are quite bad, but I don't think it could be topped how it fits you.

This has already been discussed - @ton312 would be the undisputed fit model for not only Vanson but many other brands. That's how he should be making a living while also making the world a much better place. But thank you for placing me as a candidate as well, I'd be flattered to cover the small sizes examples for them. So far I've gone through 6+ Vanson jackets with one more (Oxford!) coming in - huge fan of Vanson. I don't see how you can beat a good 200-400eur specimen from Japan in terms of value assuming you like heavyweight black moto style jackets.

 

[Zoro]

This has already been discussed - @ton312 would be the undisputed fit model for not only Vanson but many other brands. That's how he should be making a living while also making the world a much better place. But thank you for placing me as a candidate as well, I'd be flattered to cover the small sizes examples for them. So far I've gone through 6+ Vanson jackets with one more (Oxford!) coming in - huge fan of Vanson. I don't see how you can beat a good 200-400eur specimen from Japan in terms of value assuming you like heavyweight black moto style jackets.

You're lucky there for having a smaller size. I've basically given up on Japan a while ago as it is almost impossible for something in my size to show up. And even the ones that are bigger it seems they're already placing them at high prices I guess because they know they are rare in Japan and/or they will be sold to us westeners.

 

[jchance]

the E is goated and it just fits you like a glove, the padded C2 still falls short despite its uniqueness.

I agree with this. Leather jacket is thick relatively (as compared to other fabrics) and appears bulky on a human body. The smaller your body frame, the more fitted you want your jacket to look to minimize that outward thickness view. That E looks so much better on you.