[Field Leathers] First-time full custom – D-pocket & hide advice needed

[jchance]

Thanks for pointing that out – I think there was a misunderstanding.
Just to clarify: my chest measurement (82cm) is full circumference, measured around the widest part of my chest.
My shoulder measurement (44cm) is across the back, seam to seam – not shoulder circumference. So it’s definitely not wider than my chest
Really appreciate all the insights so far. I’m learning a lot just from these discussions!

Thanks for clarifying. I understood you correctly.

Your chest measurement, measured in circumference, is 82cm (32.3 in), so you’d want a size 34 (JP) jacket. JP sizing is weird, such that their tag size is exactly their chest measurement and you’d want some room in your chest for movement.

Shoulder measurement (you said 44-45cm) is measured in half, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. So to get a shoulder circumference, you’d want to double that, which is 88cm-90cm. That makes your shoulder measurement bigger than your chest measurement, if both are counted in circumference.

We, TFL members, often complain about Japanese leather jackets with tubular body but that’s pretty much what you want for your measurements. Same shoulder and chest measurements in a jacket give you a fitted shoulder and a bit of room for chest. If you get your jacket tapered by a tailor, you’d get a good fitted jacket. That’s a V shape from the shoulder to waist (not the typical V shape from chest to waist).

Let me give you an example of a typical sizing. I’m a size 38 chest, 31 waist. For leather jackets, the shoulder is 17” (43cm or 86cm if twice for circumference) and chest is 20” (51cm, or 102cm if twice for circumference). My chest is larger than my shoulder. Then I’d want a tapering hem to make my 31W (79cm) flattering. It’s like a diamond shape, if we are only looking at the body of the jacket.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I would add the Vanson Model E / Highwayman. It is more tapered and slim fitting than the C2 and has the side laces to further adjust the taper.

There's still the con that others mentioned about Vanson possibly not fitting their smaller sizes as good as the bigger ones (of which I'm unsure of) and that there's far far less Model E than C2 in the market, but you can always have a look into the JP market as, then again, since they wear smaller sizes than EU/US you might be lucky finding a lone size 34.

Thanks for the tip – I’ve actually been curious about the Model E / Highwayman as well.


The more tapered cut and side laces definitely sound promising for my needs.





I’ll look deeper into the Japanese market like you suggested – size 34s are hard to come by, but maybe I’ll get lucky.





If you or anyone else has experience with how Model E fits in the smaller sizes compared to the C2, I’d love to hear it.


Appreciate the input!

 

[Tom71]

I agree to the previous suggestions..

@Quan_love_leather, you have a pretty clear idea on what you are after which is a brilliant starting point. You have also handled some OTR jackets, so you have first hand experience. Even better!

I don’t question your patience, but with Greg’s lead times, you are taking quite the gamble. It may well be that after a long wait you will find, that he offers hides that are just not suitable for riding in your climate.
Other than that, he IS good with slim-fitting patterns, so he may indeed be the man for you in this respect.

Vanson offers great functional jackets, but they are not really slim-fitting. Do have a look at @TartuWolf in his Model E. He is also on the smaller side, and still makes the jacket look spectacular. The competition weight is very good in wet conditions, so that should work as well.
I wouldn’t really recommend the C2. It’s a great jacket but even more generously fitting than the E.

Have you had a look at Lewis Leather? They offer a “STF” pattern (“super trim fit”), predominantly for the Asian markets. They also do custom. They have a very distinct “signature” look, so you may not like it. Their standard horsehide is very good in the rain due to a super tough topcoat.

Lastly, you can always reach out to Aero. They have all sorts of hides, and the “Ridley” is a reasonably slim filtern moto jacket. Prices and lead times are attractive too. Don’t forget that Greg learned his craft with them.

 

[Mrfrown]

Hey Quan,

Vanson can indeed do custom work, including adjusting sleeve length, body length, and circumference of a standard jacket.

They can also make design changes.

Depending on the specific dimension or design change there is an associated cost

As you make more changes, and the overall project becomes more complicated, the chances of some kind of error increase. FYI this was clearly told to me by the folks at Vanson

For example, I’m working on a redesign of the Enfield to turn it into a halfbelt. One of the changes involved moving the chest pocket higher. We ended up needing to redo that whole front panel because the pocket placement put it too close to the sleeve hole but it wasn’t realized til after cutting the pocket took place.

The C2 changes were minimal- delete back seam and reduce sleeve length by 1”. We had no issues there.

I think the C2 is a wonderful jacket. The only consideration for a slighter build would be the arms- you may find them a little larger on the bicep than you’d want from “looks” perspective. But they do allow for greater comfort and ease of movement which you’d probably appreciate on the bike. The hem has a 2” drop from the chest which isn’t super aggressive. The belt allows for some adjustment but also a consideration.

Some shots of the C2:

Custom can turn out great but it can also be a major disappointment. I think if you’re interested you should think of it as a commitment to a process between you and a maker you really like. Maybe with great communication and good information flowing from both sides, you get the perfect outcome the first time. Maybe not. But then the second outcome can be better, and so on.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Thanks for clarifying. I understood you correctly.

Your chest measurement, measured in circumference, is 82cm (32.3 in), so you’d want a size 34 (JP) jacket. JP sizing is weird, such that their tag size is exactly their chest measurement and you’d want some room in your chest for movement.

Shoulder measurement (you said 44-45cm) is measured in half, from shoulder seam to shoulder seam. So to get a shoulder circumference, you’d want to double that, which is 88cm-90cm. That makes your shoulder measurement bigger than your chest measurement, if both are counted in circumference.

We, TFL members, often complain about Japanese leather jackets with tubular body but that’s pretty much what you want for your measurements. Same shoulder and chest measurements in a jacket give you a fitted shoulder and a bit of room for chest. If you get your jacket tapered by a tailor, you’d get a good fitted jacket. That’s a V shape from the shoulder to waist (not the typical V shape from chest to waist).

Let me give you an example of a typical sizing. I’m a size 38 chest, 31 waist. For leather jackets, the shoulder is 17” (43cm or 86cm if twice for circumference) and chest is 20” (51cm, or 102cm if twice for circumference). My chest is larger than my shoulder. Then I’d want a tapering hem to make my 31W (79cm) flattering. It’s like a diamond shape, if we are only looking at the body of the jacket.

Wow, your body measurements sound perfect for most Western jackets – I’m a bit jealous!
Seriously though, thanks a lot for the advice and the breakdown – I’ve always measured in centimeters so when people start throwing around inches, I get a bit lost haha.
I guess that pretty much kicks me out of the European jacket game…

I actually have a Schott 611H in size 36 – had to shorten the sleeves, slim the waist, and even alter the hem to make it look a bit more like a Buco J24. So yeah, been there with trying to force a fit

Out of curiosity – are there any brands you’d recommend that might suit my build better? I’d be happy with either OTR or made-to-measure, as long as the fit works and it’s within a reasonable budget.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I agree to the previous suggestions..

@Quan_love_leather, you have a pretty clear idea on what you are after which is a brilliant starting point. You have also handled some OTR jackets, so you have first hand experience. Even better!

I don’t question your patience, but with Greg’s lead times, you are taking quite the gamble. It may well be that after a long wait you will find, that he offers hides that are just not suitable for riding in your climate.
Other than that, he IS good with slim-fitting patterns, so he may indeed be the man for you in this respect.

Vanson offers great functional jackets, but they are not really slim-fitting. Do have a look at @TartuWolf in his Model E. He is also on the smaller side, and still makes the jacket look spectacular. The competition weight is very good in wet conditions, so that should work as well.
I wouldn’t really recommend the C2. It’s a great jacket but even more generously fitting than the E.

Have you had a look at Lewis Leather? They offer a “STF” pattern (“super trim fit”), predominantly for the Asian markets. They also do custom. They have a very distinct “signature” look, so you may not like it. Their standard horsehide is very good in the rain due to a super tough topcoat.

Lastly, you can always reach out to Aero. They have all sorts of hides, and the “Ridley” is a reasonably slim filtern moto jacket. Prices and lead times are attractive too. Don’t forget that Greg learned his craft with them.

Thanks a lot for the thoughtful reply – really appreciate you taking the time!
You’re absolutely right about Greg’s lead times being a gamble, and I’ve been thinking hard about whether I want to wait that long only to end up compromising on the hide. That said, his slim-fitting patterns are definitely what drew me in – the silhouette is hard to beat.
I’ll take a closer look at TartuWolf’s Model E – thanks for pointing that out. If it looks good on someone smaller-framed, that’s very encouraging.
I have looked into Lewis Leathers before – the STF pattern seems well-suited to my size, but I personally prefer a firmer, more structured silhouette, something like the Flat Head Delraiser. Some of LL’s fits come off a bit too soft or slouchy for my taste. That said, I’ve always liked the Twin Track Bronx design, so it’s still on my radar.

And Aero – yes! I didn’t know Greg had trained there, that’s a great detail. I’ve always liked the Ridley’s lines but wasn’t sure if the fit would work. I might revisit that idea with your comment in mind.

Again, really appreciate the suggestions – this is super helpful for narrowing things down. If you have any thoughts on how LL STF or Aero Ridley fit on smaller frames, I’d love to hear more.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks a lot for the suggestion! I’m actually leaning toward reaching out to Stu soon – the durability and weather resistance of LW really appeals to me since I ride daily and live in a pretty humid area.

I’ve seen that most of their patterns are based on vintage styles and run a bit boxy, but I’ll try asking if some small adjustments can be made for a slimmer fit.

I definitely agree that Field leans more into the fashion side of things – what draws me there is the craftsmanship and clean execution, especially in terms of stitching and finishing. But for heavy-duty use, Lost Worlds sounds like the smarter pick.

Appreciate the insight – if you have any specific model recommendations from LW that would suit a slimmer build, I’d love to hear them!

To me the best riding jackets patterns made by LW are the Leathertogs ones.
I have most riding jackets they do and the one i use everyday is a Leathertogs A

It has the best mobility, is the most comfortable on the bike and is the best at allowing layering whilst still looking slim when only wearing a T shirt. I love the hidden inside pocket as i can keep my motorcycle papers in it.
It is for me the perfect leather jacket.

 

[jchance]

I actually have a Schott 611H in size 36 – had to shorten the sleeves, slim the waist, and even alter the hem to make it look a bit more like a Buco J24. So yeah, been there with trying to force a fit

Out of curiosity – are there any brands you’d recommend that might suit my build better? I’d be happy with either OTR or made-to-measure, as long as the fit works and it’s within a reasonable budget.

I’m also Vietnamese (American). To fit typical American clothes, I hit the gym for 5 years and took a lot of protein powder. Now I fit OTR clothes, 38 S or Medium. If you’re willing to put in the work to “body build”, you don’t need to always visit a tailor.

How tall are you? What’s your weight?

Currently, if I were to buy new from JP, I’d get a Double Helix. You should read through the main thread, I was almost convinced to order one because it’s highly underrated for the price point and the value they offer. I heard they do custom measurements (reach out to them to see whether it’s true). Their Innovator model with D pocket currently runs at $1430.

I also heard the Flat Head has wider shoulder. Otherwise, JP sites have a lot of secondhanded jackets in size 34 for cheap ($300-700).

Double Helix Works?

Hello all - I'm sure somebody here has some experience of and/or thoughts on Double Helix Works jackets? My eye has been caught in particualr by this jacket, which the more perceptive among you may just notice bears an ever so slight resembelance to a Freewheelers Mulholland -...

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[Zoro]

To me the best riding jackets patterns made by LW are the Leathertogs ones.
I have most riding jackets they do and the one i use everyday is a Leathertogs A

It has the best mobility, is the most comfortable on the bike and is the best at allowing layering whilst still looking slim when only wearing a T shirt. I love the hidden inside pocket as i can keep my motorcycle papers in it.
It is for me the perfect leather jacket.

I've queried upon that jacket - https://lostworldsinc.com/Beck_Northeaster_Leathertogs_Horsehide_Motorcycle_Jacket.htm Edit - I think there's pics of you in the link too!

I think the problem that Quan might have is that it states sizes start at 38, but at the same time I guess it's all a matter of contacting them and ask if they would do a smaller one for him

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Hey Quan,

Vanson can indeed do custom work, including adjusting sleeve length, body length, and circumference of a standard jacket.

They can also make design changes.

Depending on the specific dimension or design change there is an associated cost

As you make more changes, and the overall project becomes more complicated, the chances of some kind of error increase. FYI this was clearly told to me by the folks at Vanson

For example, I’m working on a redesign of the Enfield to turn it into a halfbelt. One of the changes involved moving the chest pocket higher. We ended up needing to redo that whole front panel because the pocket placement put it too close to the sleeve hole but it wasn’t realized til after cutting the pocket took place.

The C2 changes were minimal- delete back seam and reduce sleeve length by 1”. We had no issues there.

I think the C2 is a wonderful jacket. The only consideration for a slighter build would be the arms- you may find them a little larger on the bicep than you’d want from “looks” perspective. But they do allow for greater comfort and ease of movement which you’d probably appreciate on the bike. The hem has a 2” drop from the chest which isn’t super aggressive. The belt allows for some adjustment but also a consideration.

Some shots of the C2:

View attachment 716484 View attachment 716485 View attachment 716486 View attachment 716487

Custom can turn out great but it can also be a major disappointment. I think if you’re interested you should think of it as a commitment to a process between you and a maker you really like. Maybe with great communication and good information flowing from both sides, you get the perfect outcome the first time. Maybe not. But then the second outcome can be better, and so on.

I really appreciate your insights on Vanson – thank you for sharing in such detail.
To be honest, I’ve been a big admirer of yours ever since I started getting into secondhand leather jackets. I’ve read a lot of your posts, even though I don’t always fully understand everything (my English isn’t the best ).

I understand the risks involved with Vanson customs, as you described. But I’ve kind of fallen in love with the D-pocket design.
Since you have experience working directly with them, I’d really love your opinion: do you think my custom idea would be something Vanson might accept?

• Base form: Flat Head Delraiser-style silhouette (slim and structured)
• Custom elements:
  • Hem kidney panel like a Buco J24
  • Collar strap with mouton collar
  • Wool or mouton lining inside

From what I’ve researched, brands like Vanson, Langlitz, and Lost Worlds are known for weather-resistant leather – but Vanson seems to be the most budget-friendly option.

If I can get great leather + a design that fits my needs and my body type, that would be a dream come true in this crazy climate

 

[Quan_love_leather]

To me the best riding jackets patterns made by LW are the Leathertogs ones.
I have most riding jackets they do and the one i use everyday is a Leathertogs A

It has the best mobility, is the most comfortable on the bike and is the best at allowing layering whilst still looking slim when only wearing a T shirt. I love the hidden inside pocket as i can keep my motorcycle papers in it.
It is for me the perfect leather jacket.

That’s wonderful – it’s truly great to find something that fits your needs and can stay with you for a long time. I hope I can achieve the same someday!

 

[red devil]

Aero, FL are definitley not riding jackets. Sure you can wear them and ride as you could with a Zara leather jacket but it is as far as it goes.

In terms of sewing, Greg is very good, but there are better made jackets out there as well.

In terms of abrasion and water resiostance, chrome tanned leathers are better. If you are looking for a reasobly functional vintage style jacket, these are the companies to look for:

- Johnson Leathers
- Langlitz
- Lost Worlds
- Vanson

The other question is weather you want armour or not under.

 

[Carlos840]

Here, this was the last leather jacket i bought, most likely my last ever.
It has all the things i want in a leather jacket, it is my perfect LW.
Custom Leathertogs B, Moose body, 4.5oz HH arms, leather collar facings, belt and D pocket

It fits just like this one:

The reason for going to leather arms was the fact that in winter when riding in the wet the arms of my full moose one would end up feeling humid inside as moose isn't great at dealing with rain.
I don't get the torso wet cause i have a screen on my bike.
So i went with moose body for comfort, leather arms for water resistance and a real D pocket rather than a slit pocket cause it's cool...

As mentioned above, it's the only one my jackets that looks slim in a T shirt but allows a thick wool jumper in winter.
To wear the same thick jumper in a J24 i have to size up to a size 44 and it is still not as comfortable as the size 42 LT-B.
It's really a magical pattern.

 

[Carlos840]

I've queried upon that jacket - https://lostworldsinc.com/Beck_Northeaster_Leathertogs_Horsehide_Motorcycle_Jacket.htm Edit - I think there's pics of you in the link too!

I think the problem that Quan might have is that it states sizes start at 38, but at the same time I guess it's all a matter of contacting them and ask if they would do a smaller one for him

With Stuart it's usually add-ons, he will do most things if you are ready to pay for them...

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I’m also Vietnamese (American). To fit typical American clothes, I hit the gym for 5 years and took a lot of protein powder. Now I fit OTR clothes, 38 S or Medium. If you’re willing to put in the work to “body build”, you don’t need to always visit a tailor.

How tall are you? What’s your weight?

Currently, if I were to buy new from JP, I’d get a Double Helix. You should read through the main thread, I was almost convinced to order one because it’s highly underrated for the price point and the value they offer. I heard they do custom measurements (reach out to them to see whether it’s true). Their Innovator model with D pocket currently runs at $1430.

I also heard the Flat Head has wider shoulder. Otherwise, JP sites have a lot of secondhanded jackets in size 34 for cheap ($300-700).

http://[URL]https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/double-helix-works.106511/

[/URL]

Oh wow, where in Vietnam are you originally from? It’s rare to meet a fellow Vietnamese here – really cool to connect!

I’m 173cm tall and weigh around 63kg.

Thanks for the tip – I’ll definitely take a closer look at Double Helix. I’ve heard the name before but never really explored it until now.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I've queried upon that jacket - https://lostworldsinc.com/Beck_Northeaster_Leathertogs_Horsehide_Motorcycle_Jacket.htm Edit - I think there's pics of you in the link too!

I think the problem that Quan might have is that it states sizes start at 38, but at the same time I guess it's all a matter of contacting them and ask if they would do a smaller one for him

Haha this feels like my “final leather jacket,” so I’m being super picky about sizing this time. If it doesn’t work out, my wife might kick me out of the house
That’s why I’m considering asking them directly

 

[Will Zach]

Oh wow, where in Vietnam are you originally from? It’s rare to meet a fellow Vietnamese here – really cool to connect!

I’m 173cm tall and weigh around 63kg.

Thanks for the tip – I’ll definitely take a closer look at Double Helix. I’ve heard the name before but never really explored it until now.

Dude, you are not a 34. I am 176 cm and weigh 65 kgs, and am 38 right on the nose in Vanson.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Aero, FL are definitley not riding jackets. Sure you can wear them and ride as you could with a Zara leather jacket but it is as far as it goes.

In terms of sewing, Greg is very good, but there are better made jackets out there as well.

In terms of abrasion and water resiostance, chrome tanned leathers are better. If you are looking for a reasobly functional vintage style jacket, these are the companies to look for:

- Johnson Leathers
- Langlitz
- Lost Worlds
- Vanson

The other question is weather you want armour or not under.

budget-consciousness… weighing all of these is driving me crazy

I’ll probably have to rule out Langlitz and Lost Worlds – they’re just out of my budget range at this point.

And no, I’m not looking to add armor. I ride casually for daily life – if I go on a proper tour, I’d wear full moto gear anyway.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

Here, this was the last leather jacket i bought, most likely my last ever.
It has all the things i want in a leather jacket, it is my perfect LW.
Custom Leathertogs B, Moose body, 4.5oz HH arms, leather collar facings, belt and D pocket

It fits just like this one:

The reason for going to leather arms was the fact that in winter when riding in the wet the arms of my full moose one would end up feeling humid inside as moose isn't great at dealing with rain.
I don't get the torso wet cause i have a screen on my bike.
So i went with moose body for comfort, leather arms for water resistance and a real D pocket rather than a slit pocket cause it's cool...

As mentioned above, it's the only one my jackets that looks slim in a T shirt but allows a thick wool jumper in winter.
To wear the same thick jumper in a J24 i have to size up to a size 44 and it is still not as comfortable as the size 42 LT-B.
It's really a magical pattern.

The color and detailing on that jacket are incredible – super sharp!
Did you feel like you needed bi-swing back or gussets for better mobility? Or is it already comfortable enough without them?

 

[jchance]

Oh wow, where in Vietnam are you originally from? It’s rare to meet a fellow Vietnamese here – really cool to connect!

I’m 173cm tall and weigh around 63kg.

Thanks for the tip – I’ll definitely take a closer look at Double Helix. I’ve heard the name before but never really explored it until now.

I’m from My Tho. What city are you at? There are a couple Vietnamese’s on here, I think one in Vietnam and another in OC.

We are going to want to see a fit pic of your tailored 611H. Your height and weight don’t match your measurements. And what’s wrong with your 611H? That’s a black D-pocket, why do you want another D-pocket?

I’m also 175cm and 70kg, I wear 38 US and 40 JP OTR.