[Field Leathers] First-time full custom – D-pocket & hide advice needed

[TartuWolf]

After all if you like D pocket then why not buy buco j24.
Small size used has quite affordable price and easy to buy from japan.

I know these are not completely representative but most of the fit pics (new) I've seen did not inspire me AT ALL - seemed very bulky and boxy, not slim/trim fitting.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

You’d fit just right in here, being obsessive about details. But it’s a quest for futility if you ask me.

I should note that your region, despite being near Dalat, has been increasingly affected by global warming and industrialization, and is no longer considered chilly. It’s so hot now, just like Ho Chi Minh City’s weather. Why do you want shearling lining and a fur collar? Your D pocket fits fine and has everything you need, for your purposes and where you live.

And horsehide isn’t going to drape the way you want it to be. I agree that you’re chasing a phantom jacket. How a jacket looks on another person doesn’t necessarily translate how it’d look on you. There are good reasons why people pay that person to model clothes for a living. For example, just Tom Cruise looks good with a G-1 doesn’t mean the same G-1 would look good on me.

And you’re not going to find a sharp or structured jacket through custom work on you compared to your current Schott. You should really browse and zoom in the fit pics of each custom maker you are considering, you’d see what I mean. To this date, after seeing thousands of jackets, I’ve only seen the leather jackets of Field Leathers and Regius to be sharp and on point. But it doesn’t mean that if I were to get jackets from those two leather-jacket masters, the jackets would look like that on me. The standalone jackets might look good on their own, but they wouldn’t look like that on me.

I replied to Aloysius earlier about the shearling lining — it’s actually due to my health. I have chronic asthma, and keeping my neck and chest warm is important, especially in the mornings and evenings. I already have a Schott 184SM with full shearling lining that serves that purpose well.
So, my idea now is to combine all the features I need from different jackets into one single piece — that way I don’t have to swap jackets for different uses. ❤

As for the fit, maybe the way I explained it earlier made it sound like I’m chasing something unrealistic
To simplify it: I’m just looking for something that allows good mobility without being too boxy or baggy.
Maybe I’m a bit greedy, but hey, it’s the “final boss” jacket, right?

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I just want a D-pocket jacket with a structured fit — something like the fit of my current jacket,

or similar to this.

 

[Zoro]

But in my case, I’ve had asthma since I was a kid, and my doctor strongly advises me to always keep my neck and chest warm, especially during chilly mornings and evenings. It’s more of a health requirement than a fashion choice.

I don't ride but I'm in a similar place in here. Once winter comes (or in the places I've lived, basically the whole year round except for summer), I wear neckwarmers as otherwise I get throataches. In my experience, having a collar doesn't particularly help or at least not to the degree neckwarmers do. I particularly like a Spanish brand called Buff, I have several in different materials (for warmer or colder weather) and shapes (bandana or tubular).

For the body, just layer. Having a shearling lining in this kind of jacket would be overkill and you would likely run into the problem that the jacket ends up looking too big and boxy even if the shearling was removable as it would still have to account to having it, bringing you precisely to what you don't want out of it. I think you would be better off just layering underneath. At this point, you would be best with two different jackets (or the same jacket in two different sizes, a bigger one for layering).

Examples of me in a Vanson Model E, one wearing a cloth Buff and just a tshirt and one wearing a merino Buff and a hoodie.

 

[TartuWolf]

I just want a D-pocket jacket with a structured fit — something like the fit of my current jacket,
or similar to this.

That last jacket photo looks sweet! But your own jacket looks like a pretty typical JP cut with no taper straight down.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

That last jacket photo looks sweet! But your own jacket looks like a pretty typical JP cut with no taper straight down.

Yeah yeah, I think you’ve got my point — I just want a jacket that has a structured, clean silhouette, not something as baggy as my Schott 611H. If I could get something that fits like that last photo, that’d be perfect.
My Japanese jacket is exactly as you described — no taper at the waist and I can barely lift my arms. Seems like this is a common issue with a lot of JP jackets?

Lately I’ve been thinking… what if I mod the Field Manhattan with the gussets like the ones you see on Schott jackets? I used to own a Saint Laurent L17 and it had that kind of gusset — nice shape and still easy to move in. If it works out, that’d be ideal: great form and full mobility

 

[red devil]

After discussing with everyone, I’ve narrowed it down to these brands:

, Johnson Leathers, Aero, Lewis, Rugged West — and as a last resort, Schott.

Could I ask for some recommendations on Asian brands that offer good custom or ready-to-wear options within a reasonable price range? I’d love to get a broader perspective.

I don't know about Rugged West, but Aero are not riding jackets.

Lewis Leathers on the other hand are not riding jackets anymore, but they retain the pattern that was initially designed for riding, so they do work well on the bike.

You could look at Kadoya

I don't whether they have a model you'd like, I don't own any of their jackets either. However they do proper riding gear, have been to their shop and bought a great pair of boots.

Being a Vietnamese with typical Asian body frame, i would say that you will fit a size 34-36 in Japanese jacket nicely.

For budget D-pocket option, you can look at Y2 or FourSpeed (rarely see but a great riding jacket). West Ride can be another budget option, although the pattern/stitching/leather) are not top end. All other high end brands (Freewheelers, Rainbow Country, RMC, etc…) are more like fashion jackets than riding jackets.

I can confirm that FourSpeed makes good riding jackets, been to his workshop.

And lastly as @Zoro stated, you're much better off with some sort of scarf or a buff to keep your neck warm. That is what my exprienced riding friends do here in the UK when it gets cold.

 

[red devil]

Yeah yeah, I think you’ve got my point — I just want a jacket that has a structured, clean silhouette, not something as baggy as my Schott 611H. If I could get something that fits like that last photo, that’d be perfect.
My Japanese jacket is exactly as you described — no taper at the waist and I can barely lift my arms. Seems like this is a common issue with a lot of JP jackets?

Lately I’ve been thinking… what if I mod the Field Manhattan with the gussets like the ones you see on Schott jackets? I used to own a Saint Laurent L17 and it had that kind of gusset — nice shape and still easy to move in. If it works out, that’d be ideal: great form and full mobility

A word of advice, if you want good mobility, go with a company that has riding history, or a great pattern.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I don't know about Rugged West, but Aero are not riding jackets.

Lewis Leathers on the other hand are not riding jackets anymore, but they retain the pattern that was initially designed for riding, so they do work well on the bike.

You could look at Kadoya

I don't whether they have a model you'd like, I don't own any of their jackets either. However they do proper riding gear, have been to their shop and bought a great pair of boots.



I can confirm that FourSpeed makes good riding jackets, been to his workshop.

And lastly as @Zoro stated, you're much better off with some sort of scarf or a buff to keep your neck warm. That is what my exprienced riding friends do here in the UK when it gets cold.

Does Fourspeed accept making jackets based on other brands’ designs? I’m a bit worried they might not want to do that since it wouldn’t carry their own design signature

 

[Tom71]

Being a Vietnamese with typical Asian body frame, i would say that you will fit a size 34-36 in Japanese jacket nicely.

For budget D-pocket option, you can look at Y2 or FourSpeed (rarely see but a great riding jacket). West Ride can be another budget option, although the pattern/stitching/leather) are not top end. All other high end brands (Freewheelers, Rainbow Country, RMC, etc…) are more like fashion jackets than riding jackets.

Not wanting to wise-***, but Y2 is no budget option (at least not here) and does not do custom (at least not here). Also, their double-rider (HR-55 and its siblings) is a pretty boxy cut (everywhere).

I am saying this as a big fan of them.

 

[Quan_love_leather]

I don't ride but I'm in a similar place in here. Once winter comes (or in the places I've lived, basically the whole year round except for summer), I wear neckwarmers as otherwise I get throataches. In my experience, having a collar doesn't particularly help or at least not to the degree neckwarmers do. I particularly like a Spanish brand called Buff, I have several in different materials (for warmer or colder weather) and shapes (bandana or tubular).

For the body, just layer. Having a shearling lining in this kind of jacket would be overkill and you would likely run into the problem that the jacket ends up looking too big and boxy even if the shearling was removable as it would still have to account to having it, bringing you precisely to what you don't want out of it. I think you would be better off just layering underneath. At this point, you would be best with two different jackets (or the same jacket in two different sizes, a bigger one for layering).

Examples of me in a Vanson Model E, one wearing a cloth Buff and just a tshirt and one wearing a merino Buff and a hoodie.

View attachment 716667
View attachment 716668

Alright, that way works too. I’ll take note of it

 

[red devil]

Does Fourspeed accept making jackets based on other brands’ designs? I’m a bit worried they might not want to do that since it wouldn’t carry their own design signature

Can't say for sure, although I suspect they would be quite open for customisation

 

[jchance]

Custom Leathertogs B, Moose body, 4.5oz HH arms, leather collar facings, belt and D pocket

I really like this customization. If I were to go custom, I’d get deerskin body and HH arms. It would drape nicely and the arm rolls are still there.

What does “leather collar facings” mean?

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

What does “leather collar facings” mean?

Inner side of the collar/lapels

 

[jchance]

View attachment 716745

Inner side of the collar/lapels

To be made of horsehide instead of moose? I’m still trying to understand what it means in this context.

 

[jchance]

Does Fourspeed accept making jackets based on other brands’ designs? I’m a bit worried they might not want to do that since it wouldn’t carry their own design signature

Why do you need Fourspeed to make other brands’ designs? Fourspeed already makes 2 D-pocket designs, one with the vertical left pocket and one with the slanted left pocket.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

To be made of horsehide instead of moose? I’m still trying to understand what it means in this context.

Yeah, like pictured, the inner side of the lapels + collar would be out of HH.

 

[tuanhng614]

Yeah, like pictured, the inner side of the lapels + collar would be out of HH.

That’s an interesting detail when you mix two different leathers into a jacket.

Learning something new today

 

[tuanhng614]

Not wanting to wise-***, but Y2 is no budget option (at least not here) and does not do custom (at least not here). Also, their double-rider (HR-55 and its siblings) is a pretty boxy cut (everywhere).

I am saying this as a big fan of them.

No problem. And you are absolutely right on a brand new Y’2 at msrp.

However, one the second hand market, Y’2 doesn’t command high price vs FW/RC/RMC.

One can find a reasonable Y’2 leather jacket between ¥60k-¥90k.

These two aren’t D-pocket but patience is key.

https://buyee.jp/mercari/item/m61065091662?conversionType=Mercari_DirectSearch

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/...versionType=jdirectitems_auction_DirectSearch

 

[tuanhng614]

And while we’re at it, why not adding some flares

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/...versionType=jdirectitems_auction_DirectSearch