Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[PeterRocco]

Another one ive had for a while now. Early 40s Californian horsehide half belt. Wartime stop box. Unfortunately the zipper bottom tore off so it can no longer zip up. Still a great fit regardless
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Hi.
Love all the Beautiful Jackets Posted. Great Finds.
I just have a question. Do you find a lot the end of the Sleeves have Cracking?

 

[tmitchell59]

Here is a Sears Topline Goatskin with the wartime Conmar zipper.

 

[PeterRocco]

Here is a Sears Topline Goatskin with the wartime Conmar zipper.


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I really love them. Do lucky to own them.

 

[tmitchell59]

here are some goatskin jackets.

 

[PeterRocco]

here are some goatskin jackets.

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What a Beautiful Collection. They all look in Beautiful Condition.

 

[tmitchell59]

What a Beautiful Collection. They all look in Beautiful Condition.

They are all in very nice wearable condition in size 44/42.

 

[jchance]

Unlabeled but seller is local and wants $550 obo. Seller claims 1940s. Not sure if the white stuff is mold. There looks like holes on the collar. “Some patches of dryness and crackling. Leather is a bit rigid due to age.” Some zipper pulls are missing. Loose stitching. Lining with holes.

Is it worth it? It looks to me like a 1960s Sears Oakbrook (Talon 42 zipper?). Its grains look really good though.

 

[AHP91]

Unlabeled but seller is local and wants $550 obo. Seller claims 1940s. Not sure if the white stuff is mold. There looks like holes on the collar. “Some patches of dryness and crackling. Leather is a bit rigid due to age.” Some zipper pulls are missing. Loose stitching. Lining with holes.

Is it worth it? It looks to me like a 1960s Sears Oakbrook (Talon 42 zipper?). Its grains look really good though.

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No. The jacket is quality - 50s Hercules by California Sportwear, I believe. For the asking range I would not want any of those issues. Or at least not all of them together.

 

[tmitchell59]

Another no on the price. Yes on CSC. The collar wear is enough to walk away from. Too many decent MC jackets out there for that money. A very nice jacket when in better condition. Certainly not from the 40s.

 

[jchance]

Mid-1960s Sam Lewis brochure

 

[jchance]

 

[jchance]

Peter’s Cafe Racer, 1950s

PETERS CAFE RACER LEATHER JACKET - 古着屋 ｜ mushroom(マッシュルーム)　ヴィンテージクロージングストア

ヴィンテージ専門店『マッシュルーム』です。毎月アメリカへ赴いてこだわりのアイテムを買い付け、ほぼ毎日新商品をご紹介しています。サイト内SHOP NEWS(買付ブログ)にて新着情報を掲載中。リペアやトレード、買い取りもお気軽にお問い合わせ下さい。

vintage-mushroom.net

 

[jchance]

1930s Star Glove Cossack with mouton collar

STAR GLOVE SINGLE-BREASTED LEATHER JACKET - 古着屋 ｜ mushroom(マッシュルーム)　ヴィンテージクロージングストア

ヴィンテージ専門店『マッシュルーム』です。毎月アメリカへ赴いてこだわりのアイテムを買い付け、ほぼ毎日新商品をご紹介しています。サイト内SHOP NEWS(買付ブログ)にて新着情報を掲載中。リペアやトレード、買い取りもお気軽にお問い合わせ下さい。

vintage-mushroom.net

 

[jchance]

I just thought of another way of dating the jackets. By the type of thread used.

Poly cotton thread wasn't really commercialized until the 50s. So if the loose thread melts with a lighter, it's poly blend, aka post war. If the loose thread keeps burning and doesn't melt then it's cotton so pre war. Of course this would need to burn a small thread to know, which isn't ideal. But another way is to look for melted thread ends around the cuff and inside hem. If visible, then it's poly, if not then cotton. The melted thread ends has been one of my pet peeves on expensive repros depending where they are located, it irritate my skin the wrong way. And one thing lead to another, I fell upon this thought about the threads.

This is such an underrated dating method. Poly cotton threads became widely available by 1950, so if your vintage leather jacket uses cotton threads by the burning test, it’s 1940s or earlier.

 

[jchance]

Hello everyone!

Been lurking this forum for a bit and finally decided it was time I participate! View attachment 647745

Thought id break the ice by sharing one that some may have seen recently. As soon as i saw it i knew I had to have it! It’s not often this size in this condition pops up for this style! Will be posting more soon.

That looks like an August 1939 Admiral Byrd. The HH label is the same one that Joe Mccoys repro uses.

The top right jacket in the 1941 ad below, note the sleeve straps and “last year’s best seller” description (1940).

 

[tmitchell59]

That looks like an August 1939 Admiral Byrd. The HH label is the same one that Joe Mccoys repro uses.

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The top right jacket in the 1941 ad below, note the sleeve straps and “last year’s best seller” description (1940).

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The Jacket in the right top corner is not the same jacket as the pictured jacket. Both are Roughwear clothing jackets. The catalog jacket has the patented "two way" pockets.

This particular page shows jackets made by at least 3 different makes; bottom right is a California Sportswear, the Roughwear above it and the others probably Block of California.

 

[tmitchell59]

Though no maker label, made in California very similar to the jackets pictured in the catalog

 

[jchance]

2 Summers LA

 

[semolina_pilchard]

Seattle Woolen half-belt / aviator jacket. It might be from the 30s based on the pocket tag.

According to this thread the American Federation of Labor became affiliated with the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America in 1933. The label in this jacket looks to be that shown below, as it states A F of L along the top left, so it suggests the jacket was made before the affiliation.

If anybody has any further insight or suggestions for the decade in which it was made (in the absence of a zipper) please comment.

 

[tmitchell59]

Seattle Woolen half-belt / aviator jacket. It might be from the 30s based on the pocket tag.

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According to this thread the American Federation of Labor became affiliated with the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America in 1933. The label in this jacket looks to be that shown below, as it states A F of L along the top left, so it suggests the jacket was made before the affiliation.

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If anybody has any further insight or suggestions for the decade in which it was made (in the absence of a zipper) please comment.

First of all, this is a wonderful jacket from one of the greats, Seattle Woolen. I would say it is post 1934 with the half-belt and side gussets with straps. The 1934 date references the Iconic Hercules. I could not find a jacket, in the Sears catalog, that had this design prior to 1934. I continue to believe this is the first use of this style in a fashion jacket.

I continue to search for an example earlier than the Sears Hercules.

And, the Aviator style, as presented, is not seen until the late 30s.