Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[jeo]

Yes, all Conmar.

Thank you.

The Conmar zipper on mine is somewhat different.

And I was mistaken. My other one has a 50’s Talon zip, not Conmar.

 

[tmitchell59]

Zippers, Labels, Linings, Leathers, we have come a long way. Answers often raise question, I always have one or two I'm curious about. I don't know that I have an answer.

Montgomery Ward catalog pages advertising is scarce to me. I would be most interested in the late 40s early 50s pages. I don't recall seeing any from that time. You have any, or a source please post.

I just found some old MW catalog pages a friend had sent me. I will post them, I don't think this are out there.

Question: Why the leather tags? I believe they were very brief, all the major makers used one, but all stopped.

 

[ABCD]

I don't recall seeing any from that time. You have any, or a source please post.

1949

It's interesting that they offered better or best quality horsehide, best being chosen for its super fine, smooth texture.

 

[tmitchell59]

These pages are from the 1930-31 catalog.

Notice the mention of the Talon Hookless Fastener, 1930-31. The zipper was prominent within a couple of years.

This is from the 1931 Sears Roebuck catalog and the first mention of the Talon fastener I have found in the outerwear section.

I will include this page as this is where catalog searching started for me. This is famous ad that features a very rare Gibson guitar. This Recording King guitar was made with the dimension of the famous Nick Lucas model, Gibson most expensive flat top. Back in the day I bid on one, I was second. Today you will not find one.

 

[tmitchell59]

1932-33 Montgomery Ward catalog

Note: Field and Stream

 

[jeo]

 

[hieu]

Here's a jacket I had briefly a while back. The condition was poor and it was too small for me so I ultimately let it go. Still a very interesting jacket. I especially like the wool under the collar.

It's got no makers label, only a generic horsehide tag. I've seen these horsehide tags on wolf jackets but I remember reading somewhere that they're generic (not sure). Anybody know the maker?

 

[tmitchell59]

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very interesting jacket, looks like one in the 1932 Sears Roebuck catalog.

 

[hieu]

I got this Californian a few months ago. I believe it's the surrogates model but with an earlier style collar.

Label says goatskin but it feels very different than my other vintage goatskin jackets. The leather is much softer, a bit heavier too. Maybe the label isn't original to the jacket.

The fit isn't great on me (sleeves too long, body too small) so it'll probably end up on classifieds after some restoration work.

 

[jeo]

I got this Californian a few months ago. I believe it's the surrogates model but with an earlier style collar.

Label says goatskin but it feels very different than my other vintage goatskin jackets. The leather is much softer, a bit heavier too. Maybe the label isn't original to the jacket.

The fit isn't great on me (sleeves too long, body too small) so it'll probably end up on classifieds after some restoration work.
View attachment 746719

Nice! I own two of these, one from the late 30’s and one from the early 50’s. You’re correct, this is the Surrogates design but with a different collar. It’s definitely goatskin and the label is original. Yours looks like it’s from the late 40’s. These have a different fit than the Surrogates model.

 

[hieu]

Nice! I own two of these, one from the late 30’s and one from the early 50’s. You’re correct, this is the Surrogates design but with a different collar. It’s definitely goatskin and the label is original. Yours looks like it’s from the late 40’s. These have a different fit than the Surrogates model.

Thanks for info! Would love to see some pics of yours sometime. I'll keep an eye out for them on your IG.

 

[tmitchell59]

Nice! I own two of these, one from the late 30’s and one from the early 50’s. You’re correct, this is the Surrogates design but with a different collar. It’s definitely goatskin and the label is original. Yours looks like it’s from the late 40’s. These have a different fit than the Surrogates model.

I look at this jacket and see the very low handwarmer pockets. Is this me or one of the distinguishing characteristics of the surrogate style? What other features are characteristic?

 

[Woolwonders]

1950s all weather garment half belt jacket. Got this amazing jacket on ebay for a pretty cheap price. Needed serious TLC. When it arrived it was bone dry and really sad looking. After a couple of hours of washing and conditioning, i think its safe to say this jacket is breathing new life again! Really enjoy these types of projects and seeing how the garment goes from someone’s trash to another's treasure!

Before conditioning:

After conditioning:

 

[Woolwonders]

1950s all weather garment half belt jacket. Got this amazing jacket on ebay for a pretty cheap price. Needed serious TLC. When it arrived it was bone dry and really sad looking. After a couple of hours of washing and conditioning, i think its safe to say this jacket is breathing new life again! Really enjoy these types of projects and seeing how the garment goes from someone’s trash to another's treasure!

Before conditioning: View attachment 747061 View attachment 747062 View attachment 747066

After conditioning: View attachment 747067 View attachment 747068 View attachment 747069 View attachment 747070 View attachment 747071

Pt.2

 

[tmitchell59]

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Great job! All Weather are tough jackets.

 

[Leigh H]

Here's a pocket design you don't see very often on motorcycle jackets, i've collected a few examples.

This design makes so much sense while riding motorbike. Just like the easy access you have with a D-pocket design, you access the pockets with the opposite hand.

Let me know if you've a seen any other jackets with this pocket design.

 

[Pandemic]

 

[Biff42]

Here's a pocket design you don't see very often on motorcycle jackets, i've collected a few examples.

This design makes so much sense while riding motorbike. Just like the easy access you have with a D-pocket design, you access the pockets with the opposite hand.

Let me know if you've a seen any other jackets with this pocket design.

View attachment 749791


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Leigh is the first one yours, or do you know who made that?

The guy in the third picture looks exactly like the robotic cab driver from the original Total Recall.

 

[Willcp30]

A couple of vintage jackets I own and absolutely love

Wights Burgundy Wool Varsity Jacket - picked this one up from Stockroom Vintage in NYC…

Also this Acme plaid Wool coat…

 

[Leigh H]

Leigh is the first one yours, or do you know who made that?

The guy in the third picture looks exactly like the robotic cab driver from the original Total Recall.

The jacket was found on facebook marketplace by @axlepressbutton, maker unknown
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/cal-leather.89250/page-17#post-3115818