Waistcoat question

drummer4hire · Jan 19, 2011

So, i have a querry of you fine gents, and those knowlegdable ladies as well. If this gtes moved, thta's fine by me, but the question i pose, i have no clue as to how to search. Anyway, here it goes: What way is the "proper" way to wear a three-piece suit? Is it with your jacket open, or buttoned? I am so confused, and would like clarification.

Shangas · Jan 19, 2011

The purpose of the waistcoat is to provide extra warmth as well as extra pocket-space (a very handy feature). As wearing a suit completly buttoned can feel rather close and warm at times, I would wear it with the jacket open, showing off the waistcoat underneath. This option is even more preferrable if you have a pocket watch and an Albert chain to go with your waistcoat.

S_M_Cumberworth · Jan 19, 2011

Shangas said:
The purpose of the waistcoat is to provide extra warmth as well as extra pocket-space (a very handy feature). As wearing a suit completly buttoned can feel rather close and warm at times, I would wear it with the jacket open, showing off the waistcoat underneath. This option is even more preferrable if you have a pocket watch and an Albert chain to go with your waistcoat.

I second this. Show off the waistcoat.

Nick D · Jan 19, 2011

When wearing a 3-piece, you can go either way. When I'm not wearing a waistcoat I always button up when standing, but when I'm wearing one I'll sometimes leave the jacket unbuttoned.

Lokar · Jan 20, 2011

I usually button up as I find coats look better buttoned (and, after all, they are cut to _be_ buttoned). I find my waistcoats show above the coat's buttoning point anyway, and when I'm sitting.

The less structured the coat, the more I stick to this rule - a really structured coat looks good unbuttoned, a really soft coat looks awful.

Tomasso · Jan 20, 2011

Nick D said:
When wearing a 3-piece, you can go either way.

My thoughts as well.

avedwards · Jan 20, 2011

It is entirely optional in my opinion. Old photographs show that both were perfectly acceptable. Personally I have my jacket buttoned when outdoors but unbuttoned when indoors. When not wearing a waistcoat I have it buttoned up nearly all the time, except occaisionally when sitting down.

dwebber18 · Jan 20, 2011

I typically button a coat when I stand and unbutton when I sit. Unless I'm doing a good deal of repetitive sitting and standing as in church, I'll just leave it unbuttoned. With a waistcoat I can go either way really it just depends on preference at the time. Here is another question for your ponderance(pretty sure that's not a real word but I like it). Do you button your waistcoat all the way down or do you leave the last button open?

scottyrocks · Jan 20, 2011

About 99% of the time, anytime Ive seen a person, or a picture of a person wearing a three-piece, the jacket has been unbuttoned. That said, if youre cold, then button it.

dnjan · Jan 21, 2011

dwebber18 said:
Here is another question for your ponderance(pretty sure that's not a real word but I like it). Do you button your waistcoat all the way down or do you leave the last button open?

Since you are asking as someone from the U.S., it depends upon the cut of the waistcoat as well as your build.
Some waistcoats are cut so that the bottom button should not be buttoned (the button is offset).
Others are cut so that the bottom button is in line with the rest, so it can be buttoned. If I can sit comfortably with that button buttoned (no bunching, etc), I tend to button it.
I believe our British associates would consider such behavior to be inexcusable.

CharlieB · Jan 21, 2011

dwebber18 said:
I typically button a coat when I stand and unbutton when I sit. Unless I'm doing a good deal of repetitive sitting and standing as in church, I'll just leave it unbuttoned. With a waistcoat I can go either way really it just depends on preference at the time. Here is another question for your ponderance(pretty sure that's not a real word but I like it). Do you button your waistcoat all the way down or do you leave the last button open?

I'm a typically a traditionalist - bottom button undone.

Lokar · Jan 21, 2011

dnjan said:
Since you are asking as someone from the U.S., it depends upon the cut of the waistcoat as well as your build.
Some waistcoats are cut so that the bottom button should not be buttoned (the button is offset).
Others are cut so that the bottom button is in line with the rest, so it can be buttoned. If I can sit comfortably with that button buttoned (no bunching, etc), I tend to button it.
I believe our British associates would consider such behavior to be inexcusable.

That's sort of the rule I (as a Brit) follow. If it's offset, always unbuttoned. If it's _not_ offset (which generally means modern suit), it depends on one simple thing: the rise of the trousers. If the rise is lower than I like, then the waistband can show - buttoning the bottom button helps conceal it a bit more. I'd rather conceal the waistband than follow the button rule. Otherwise, I leave it unbuttoned, if for no other reason than to stop people saying "shouldn't that be unbuttoned?"

S_M_Cumberworth · Jan 21, 2011

Lokar said:
That's sort of the rule I (as a Brit) follow. If it's offset, always unbuttoned. If it's _not_ offset (which generally means modern suit), it depends on one simple thing: the rise of the trousers. If the rise is lower than I like, then the waistband can show - buttoning the bottom button helps conceal it a bit more. I'd rather conceal the waistband than follow the button rule. Otherwise, I leave it unbuttoned, if for no other reason than to stop people saying "shouldn't that be unbuttoned?"

I follow the same logic. I typically leave it unbuttoned unless doing so exposes the waistband.

Shangas · Jan 21, 2011

dwebber18 said:
I typically button a coat when I stand and unbutton when I sit. Unless I'm doing a good deal of repetitive sitting and standing as in church, I'll just leave it unbuttoned. With a waistcoat I can go either way really it just depends on preference at the time. Here is another question for your ponderance(pretty sure that's not a real word but I like it). Do you button your waistcoat all the way down or do you leave the last button open?

I always button all my waistcoat buttons, but I know some people keep their bottom buttons undone.

Lokar · Jan 21, 2011

Shangas said:
I always button all my waistcoat buttons, but I know some people keep their bottom buttons undone.

Sometimes that's not doable:

If you imagine what would happen if that bottom button was buttoned - it would try to pull in the waistcoat, but it's at the hips and needs to be wider - so it would be stretched. It's much more common on vintage suits than modern, in my experience.

Torpedo · Jan 21, 2011

I would like to get a dollar every time somebody discreetly mentions I have my vest bottom button undone. The subsequent explanation usually leaves people in awe, specially if the vest is vintage and you can demonstrate it is not even designed to be tied. I have one where the buttonhole is not only offset, it is blind, also. I agree this feature has been generally abandoned today, and with it, the custom. The prevalent low waist trousers do not facilitate it, neither.

This said, I have a couple of vests with a square cut-off bottom, which I find look better buttoned all the way down; and one which, although traditionally cutaway, has only four buttons, and looks better with the bottom one tied (now that I think of it, maybe I could have additional buttonholes and buttons added to this one...).

avedwards · Jan 21, 2011

I think Torpedo has hit the nail on the head in regards to square cut-off waistcoats and those with fewer buttons. Personally I always leave the bottom one unbottoned except on one of my waistcoats which is a 5 button where the cutaway is quite high meaning the bottom button has to be fastened to avoid showing shirt front, even with high waisted trousers.

Hal · Jan 21, 2011

Torpedo said:
...I have a couple of vests with a square cut-off bottom, which I find look better buttoned all the way down...

This style of waistcoat made a brief appearance in the 1960s, and, as you say, should be buttoned all the way down.

CharlieB · Jan 21, 2011

Hal said:
This style of waistcoat made a brief appearance in the 1960s, and, as you say, should be buttoned all the way down.

Also very popular in the Victorian (i.e., late 19th century) era. You can see that the "Gentlemen's Emporium" offers several of each variety; sqaure and cutaway.

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/vests.php

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