Choosing a British tailor

Gentlemen,

I have a question for you:

I am considering (only considering) my first besoke suit (since 1995). However, I am interested in some guidance.

Back in the 1990s I had someone who I trusted and served me well. Now, I would have no idea where to start. I would be looking for a tailor with a genuine understanding of mid-20th century British tailoring, but whose understanding was such that he/she would not just be thinking about highly stylised details but about the classic lines of the suit. In other words, someone who could translate my thoughts into reality without distorting them i.e. I'm a broad shouldered bloke, with a big frame, so I don't want to be dressed up like some cartoonish gangster.

I know that Mark Powell has a reputation as someone with a broad knowledge of period tailoring, but does anyone have experience of him and his suits?

Can anyone recommend a tailor that might be suited to the task?

Is there anyone on Savile Row that would fit the bill?

(Of course, all of this depends on the budget, but it might be possible in the near future)

TT, i'm hesitant to talk too much about the world of bespoke because, as someone who has never had a bespoke suit made, i'd be faking it. there is lots of info over on the London Lounge about London tailors however those chaps aren't into period details. they may go for a high-ish waist now and then and a wider trouser, but to me their suits always have the generic-expensive-bespoke look. i.e. they're a bit boring.

my first thought would also be Mark Powell. he's the only tailor i know of in the UK who is genuinely interested in period suits, and i hear he started out by selling a load of deadstock demob suits before he became a tailor, so i imagine he knows the feel of that period.

i've heard good things about Timothy Everest and he claims to have literally no house style and will make anything. He copied someones favourite mod parka into tweed once, so is not remotely stuffy and is game for anything. (he also employs two 1940s-dressing coat-makers, so your jacket would very likely be made by one of them). overall though his stuff looks more contemporary as oppose to Mark Powell's more retro/classic.

I have heard goodthings about Colin Taub, though he mostly specialises in Ted drapes. Rocachas I have seen examples of, and been impressed. Had I the money (and assuming he is taking projects on at present), I'd go straight to Will Smith - he makes beautiful stuff and certainly knows the styles.

Edward said:

I have heard goodthings about Colin Taub, though he mostly specialises in Ted drapes. Rocachas I have seen examples of, and been impressed. Had I the money (and assuming he is taking projects on at present), I'd go straight to Will Smith - he makes beautiful stuff and certainly knows the styles.

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Thanks gents.

Edward: I am an idiot - how did I forget about Will? He is the obvious choice. Someone I know - someone with great personalstyle - someone who has the talent etc. Did you see the suit he wore recently at one of the NSC/Chap events: Light brown tweed, in a very heavy fabric. It looked splendid. I'm amazed I didn't immediately think of him. He is a coatmaker and, if I'm not mistaken, his partner is a trouser maker (or did I make that up?). Now I need to sort out some money.

HBK: Will Smith as referred to by Edward is, I believe, one of the period dressing coat-makers to whom you referred. I must sit down for a chat with him to get some idea of how much all this might cost me. Although I might go and have a look at Mark Powell as well (he was on that TV programme about Soho years ago and I remember my mother telling me that she thought he seemed a nice chap - so maybe I owe to her to check him out).

That said, I am currently having a suit made by Bookster. Three piece, wide trousers (copied from originals) peaked lapels. They are also using a differnet styling for the jacket, to produce a more traditional armscye (I think that's the right word). If that comes out nicely, I could buy four or more suits from then for the price of one from a bespoke tailor. I'll have to wait and see.

Thanks gents.

Edward, does Will Smith actually take on projects for other people ? i had assumed, maybe incorrectly, that all his time would have been taken up with working for Timothy Everest.

Two Types said:

He is a coatmaker and, if I'm not mistaken, his partner is a trouser maker (or did I make that up?)

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...his partner is also a coatmaker. i don't know them personally, i only know this from reading the TE blog....

http://blog.timothyeverest.co.uk/

herringbonekid said:

Edward, does Will Smith actually take on projects for other people ? i had assumed, maybe incorrectly, that all his time would have been taken up with working for Timothy Everest.

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I've known him to do private work as well as working for TE, but I imagine it depends on what time is available. I do plan to put some business his way once I can afford it. Bookster I've looked into for some stuff too.... hopefully at some point....

Does anybody here think Savile Row is a good option.

Obviously. Had I the cash, I would be straight 'round Henry Poole's shop, having them dig out their old patterns.

bk

Actually, if you want a period correct suit (without breaking the bank), your best best would be Costello & Sons in Ilford, North London. They do excellent bespoke work, as well as military and theatrical tailoring.

I have not heard of them. Please tell us more ....

I'm not sure what else there is to tell... oh yes, they also make the state uniforms for members of the Royal Household, turn around is quick, quality is excellent, and service is superb. Give 'em a call, then hop on the rattler and rumble up to Ilford; Costello & Son are about a five minute walk from the tube station.

Their website doesn't show any examples of their work. Do you have any photos? I would be most interested.