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4 month review of Bill Kelso A2 Victory Horse Dark Seal Aero 18775

Persimmon

One of the Regulars
Messages
134
Location
Nottingham
4 Month Review.
At last I have found some time to sit down and do a review of my latest A2 purchase, a Bill Kelso Arco (Aero) 41-18775 P in their dark seal Victory Horse leather.

A brief background was that at the beginning of this year I received a test jacket Arco(Aero 18775) in the Victory Horse Leather to access and comment on.
I did post a few pictures and a small review ... in the following VLJ thread

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14128

Although I was sad to return it, the main advantage was that it allowed me to adjust the measurements to my exact size specifications and to have exactly what I wanted re fit when I took delivery.

This was all sorted by Platon and Andy at BK (who was very helpful and kept me fully updated with regard to awaiting the delivery of the leather, manufacture (including pictures of it under construction), shipping, etc) and I placed the order for delivery as soon as the Victory Horse leather in the dark seal was available.

Having agreed all the details in late Feb/early March, the Aero jacket was received at the beginning of June (it was a perfect birthday present for me). A brief note re my fit requirements that are perhaps known to some, is that I prefer the more war time close to the waist rather than a slightly looser longer fit.

My initial reaction on first wearing the A2 was that it was slightly stiff and felt a little “heavy”. (The jacket was perfectly delivered in a sealed sturdy box and was tracked for safety). The jacket also had that new leather smell when it arrived that just makes you want you to try it on.

Of course I am probably some sort of a “ lightweight” being more used to the capeskin A1 and the ELC Werber. Still in comparision to my previous A2 purchase – a Goodwear Monarch, it did feel heavier.

Although after email conversations with Platon he highlighted that the specs were spot on and in keeping with Goodwear etc.

BK info
The details are that the weight is 3oz (i.e) 1.1mm - 1.2mm which is what AAF specified.
The ideal is 1.1mm but no tannery in the world can make that exactly.
They can make either 1.1mm - 1.2mm or 1.0m - 1.1mm
Although 0.1 mm does not sound like much it makes great difference.
It will make a jacket of 1.2mm feel heavy and it will make a jacket of 1.0mm feel very light For this reason BK prefer 1.1mm - 1.2mm over 1.0m - 1.1mm

In summary this jacket just needed to be worn and broken it.
The quality of the leather and the lining and stitching thread were simply spot on.

Of course in England we are used to perfect A2 wearing summer conditions - wet, windy, cold and damp etc !! Ah yes those lovely summer days. However this year as soon as I took delivery it’s been almost a heatwave for much of the summer with temp getting to 90 degrees.

So wearing it everyday since June has been impossible so instead it’s been a case of occasional wear, plenty of jacket sunbathing (catching those rays !!) and lots of hand wrigging/kneading in the evenings to break it in.

Now four months later, the weather has finally allowed me to start wearing it every day and the occasional rain showers has also added to that look of age. There is much more to come for sure with such stunning leather quality and I look forward to wearing and looking at this jacket throughout the next year.

Certainly the redish undertones pop out as I wanted.

For the record no artificial sanding (timeworn) or HWT (hot water treatment) has been done to the jacket. Hopefully the pictures will show how pleased I am with the look and fit of the jacket.

Bill Kelso has certainly upped their game with the Victory Horse leather. The manufacture, to my exact measurements has given me the best A2 I have owned- best fit, the very best of quality in leather and to me – who has to wear it after all - the best looking. (For reference in A2 repro’s, I have owned 4 Goodwear’s, 5 Eastman’s, 2 RMNZ and 3 Aero’s)

Additionally I would highlight that I did not have the year plus wait that anyone purchasing a new Goodwear has to joyfully endure. And I got that perfect fit jacket which was worked to my precise measurements. Oh and of course there is a good price saving as well.

The Dark Seal Victory Horse leather was my ultimate requirement and I did have to wait to get it (approx 4 months) but it was worth it and is stunning. Plenty of grain has developed already and there is more to come.

In the cloudy sky days, the jacket can appear as a dark looking jacket but with a little sunlight on it the red undertones come out superbly. I have tried to show pictures in both lighting conditions.

The rust knits are top quality (N.B. In some photos I have taken but not used and in others I have seen posted of BK red knit Aero’s the camera can on some occasions make them look almost bright red.) However in real life - they are perfectly coloured - red rust to give that iconic Aero look.

Would I recommend Bill Kelso for their A2 Victory Horse leather jackets ? A resounding .....YES.

Sorry there are a lot of pictures ... just wanted to try and offer as many angles as possible.
Alan
 
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Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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2,069
Location
Berlin
This leather is truly spectacular. Usually I am not a huge fan of seal, especially the very dark versions. But this is without a doubt the most beautiful leather I have seen so far.
 

Persimmon

One of the Regulars
Messages
134
Location
Nottingham
Very nice. How would you say it compares in feel/accuracy to a Goodwear or ELC?

ELC generally lack total accuracy. (There are stunning examples of top quality though- eg their Werber.
The feel of wearing the Werber is wonderful.
Goodwear of course have been the accuracy standard. JC offers exact replicas.
This A2 is a totally accurate Aero repro and is as good as Goodwear.
The feel and look of this jacket using the Victory Horse leather matches anything I have worn or indeed seen by Goodwear.
I have owned 4 Goodwear's and it is better than all of them. Of course that can be down to fit, comfort, etc as well. But I am stunned by the Victory Horse leather.
Still in football (soccer) terms and based on this jacket I would only put Goodwear and BK in the Champions League. The others remain still high but only in the Premiership.
Alan
 
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aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,338
Location
Kent, England
ELC generally lack total accuracy. (There are stunning examples of top quality though- eg their Werber.
The feel of wearing the Werber is wonderful.
Goodwear of course have been the accuracy standard. JC offers exact replicas.
This A2 is a totally accurate Aero repro and is as good as Goodwear.
The feel and look of this jacket using the Victory Horse leather matches anything I have worn or indeed seen by Goodwear.
I have owned 4 Goodwear's and it is better than all of them. Of course that can be down to fit, comfort, etc as well. But I am stunned by the Victory Horse leather.
Still in football (soccer) terms and based on this jacket I would only put Goodwear and BK in the Champions League. The others remain still high but only in the Premiership.
Alan

I agree with this analysis Alan. The Werber is by far the most accurate ELC repro and Good Wear A2s speak for themselves. It's great to see BK at the top of the tree with GW.
 

aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,338
Location
Kent, England
Just playing Devils Advocate, but if anyone is customising the fit then they going away from the original specification and cannot by definition be making an exact copy.

The problem I have with this is that there was significant variation with the sizes original jackets from the same contract with the same size tag. In the end I guess it depends on the extent to which a repro has been customised and differs from any extant originals.
 

aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,338
Location
Kent, England
Half an inch or so variance I could imagine, but inches onto the sleeves or off the body length?

Not necessarily. I used to own a RW 27752 labelled as a 44 which fitted like a 40 and was four inches less across the chest than other size 44s from the same contract that I have owned.
 

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