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Admiral Byrd thread
- Thread starter jchance
- Start date
tmitchell59
I'll Lock Up
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Admiral Byrd was a label used by Roughwear Clothing Co. The 2 way pocket is their patent.
The label was first used around 1937 and continued with variations into the 1950s.
Roughwear and California Sportswear were the 2 largest supplier of leather jackets.
Both made numerous jackets for Wards, Sears, Penney. The Admiral Byrd labels was also used independent of any other labeling, as noted above on a vest.
The unlabeled brown aviator is mine. I never thought of it as being Roughwear/Byrd, yet is is the same jacket as the Windward/Byrds posted. The lining in mine was replaced with an effort to match the original lining. Notice how that red plaid lining shows up in Byrd jackets.
The label was first used around 1937 and continued with variations into the 1950s.
Roughwear and California Sportswear were the 2 largest supplier of leather jackets.
Both made numerous jackets for Wards, Sears, Penney. The Admiral Byrd labels was also used independent of any other labeling, as noted above on a vest.
The unlabeled brown aviator is mine. I never thought of it as being Roughwear/Byrd, yet is is the same jacket as the Windward/Byrds posted. The lining in mine was replaced with an effort to match the original lining. Notice how that red plaid lining shows up in Byrd jackets.
Byrd also uses other makers, like Block-Bilt. I don’t see Byrd is just another face for Roughwear, i.e., Roughwear was not the only maker for Byrd. I see Byrd as a broader umbrella that uses Roughwear and other makers such as Block-Bilt. See link below.
This is similar to the relationship between Guide Master Wolf outerwear the jacket maker and Kit Karson, who was a famous American frontier. Wolf was not the only maker for Kit Karson, which employed other makers to seller under his namesake brand.
Admiral Byrd thread
This is the thread on leather jackets from Admiral Byrd. It is a highly underrated pre-war brand that was active during 1930s-1940s. It is sometimes labeled in addition to a Montgomery Ward / Windward label. I suspect that it was not a maker but sourced leather jackets from other makers and put...
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Only Admiral Byrd label, straight horizontal chest pocket instead of slightly slanted, button sleeves. By Roughwear (two-way pocket):
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History of Roughwear on ELC website, which confirms that Roughwear was one of the makers of Admiral Byrd:
In 1928, “two hundred people were employed, ninety-five of whom were in the stitching room. Many of the hides that were used were of domestic origin, although a large percentage of hides were received from France and Sweden, but raw material also arrived from South America, South Africa, and Australia.
…. The Middletown factory was well known. Their fleece-lined jackets were in demand-the employees took pride in their work. In 1934 they made the sheep-lined and leather coats and jackets for Admiral Richard Byrd’s expedition to ‘Little America.’
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In the 1940s, Rough Wear made custom motorcycle jackets for the New York Police Department, and during the World War II, under contract to the US Government, the factory manufactured over half a million leather jackets and flying suits for the Air Force and the Quartermaster Corps. During these years the company produced about 12,000 garments a week.
They were issue a total of 5 contracts for type A-2 flight jackets between 1940 and 1942 producing over 119,000 of the iconic garments in total using horsehide, cowhide and goatskin. The average cost per jacket at this time was $8.25.“
blog.eastmanleather.com
In 1928, “two hundred people were employed, ninety-five of whom were in the stitching room. Many of the hides that were used were of domestic origin, although a large percentage of hides were received from France and Sweden, but raw material also arrived from South America, South Africa, and Australia.
…. The Middletown factory was well known. Their fleece-lined jackets were in demand-the employees took pride in their work. In 1934 they made the sheep-lined and leather coats and jackets for Admiral Richard Byrd’s expedition to ‘Little America.’
…
In the 1940s, Rough Wear made custom motorcycle jackets for the New York Police Department, and during the World War II, under contract to the US Government, the factory manufactured over half a million leather jackets and flying suits for the Air Force and the Quartermaster Corps. During these years the company produced about 12,000 garments a week.
They were issue a total of 5 contracts for type A-2 flight jackets between 1940 and 1942 producing over 119,000 of the iconic garments in total using horsehide, cowhide and goatskin. The average cost per jacket at this time was $8.25.“
Eastman Leather Clothing Blog
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Unlabeled Aug. 1939 (zipper) of @Woolwonders but has Admiral Byrd details (sleeve strap) and horse label. It is suspected to be Admiral Byrd, made by Ram-Jack (see next post):
Compare with this 1930s, same horse label, note the same pocket stitching detail, without the top pocket zipper:
Compare with this 1930s, same horse label, note the same pocket stitching detail, without the top pocket zipper:
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Ram-Jack is suspected as the maker for Admiral Byrd because it uses same horse label and the same pocket stitching:
GM Wolf uses the same pocket stitching but different horse label
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jeo
Call Me a Cab
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Byrd also uses other makers, like Block-Bilt. I don’t see Byrd is just another face for Roughwear, i.e., Roughwear was not the only maker for Byrd. I see Byrd as a broader umbrella that uses Roughwear and other makers such as Block-Bilt. See link below.
This is similar to the relationship between Guide Master Wolf outerwear the jacket maker and Kit Karson, who was a famous American frontier. Wolf was not the only maker for Kit Karson, which employed other makers to seller under his namesake brand.
Admiral Byrd thread
This is the thread on leather jackets from Admiral Byrd. It is a highly underrated pre-war brand that was active during 1930s-1940s. It is sometimes labeled in addition to a Montgomery Ward / Windward label. I suspect that it was not a maker but sourced leather jackets from other makers and put...www.thefedoralounge.com
Ramjack was not a maker. One look at that label and the one motorcycle that was clearly made by Wolf confirms that.
That leather label that you’re saying belongs to them is a generic leather label. Many many different makers used it. One of my Durables has that leather label
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