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Zoltan

New in Town
Messages
10
Location
Berkshire, Uk
Searched first before posting here. Any idea what year is this G1-1 Martin Lane? The best info is that is a D post 1971.
G-1.png
 

Al 916

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
GB
On a whim today I bought some cheapo leather gloves. They are just the job and fit beautifully, although built down to a price obv. But they have a strong chemical smell.

What can I do to shortcut this dissipating naturally?
Just air them outside under cover (you wont want to go the Ozone route...?)
(Mind out with cheaper ones in case the colour runs in the rain/snow)
 
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Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,606
Location
China
Searched first before posting here. Any idea what year is this G1-1 Martin Lane? The best info is that is a D post 1971. View attachment 470044
You see the second set of number 69? Means the contract is 1969. Does not mean it is made and delivered in 1969. Just that the contract was awarded in 1969 but that is usually accepted as the date of the particular jacket.
https://www.raregearusa.com/product...eather-jacket-flyers-type-g-1-g1-1982-size-42
https://magnetsco.exblog.jp/29927806/
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...lothing-and-g-1-jackets-from-the-label.26620/
 
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Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,517
Any Schott "UHT" jacket owners out there? Care to post a pic and what you think. Thanks.

It is a shortened Schott 613SH with a lighter weight hide (the one used in the 618HH) and extreme reverse vanity sizing for the Japanese market. I’m talking the 44 measuring up like a size 36 should.

The other differences are that the pocket zippers zip upward, as on vintage models (and some modern ones) and instead of the heavy duty and higher quality modern buckle, they have a thin stamped mitered buckle. (I happen to like that buckle so I paid to have the one on my SH changed.)

Having worn both, the 613SH is a higher quality jacket in every respect. (Its only drawback, and this probably only applies to if you want to look like the cover of Ramones, is the zipper direction but that’s not actually a negative; especially since the piping means that you unzip it and it’ll look the other way while staying closed.) And it is accurate to the fit/sizing of my 60s Perfecto, albeit one size over (a size 40 613S/613SH measures like size 42 vintage Perfecto).
 
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Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
766
Do manufacturers take into account lining replacement when they build a jacket.
Not that I would need one in many years but looking at my jacket, I can’t seem to figure out how a lining would be replaced without showing through the outside shell.
F7E108D1-4CDA-4B87-A88A-FF415B58F6A1.jpeg
View attachment 472812

Also curious if anyone has requested a different zipper length on a pocket of a custom jacket.
Considering we are all different sizes a pocket size could change the appearance if it is the same for a size 38 versus 48

Looking at these pictures though they are fine, I think I would add another inch if I could and considering it on a build that is in the horizon.
E5E2190C-C993-4FCB-805B-7F9C1416E2F9.jpeg
C533370E-878A-440C-9D19-9EDA25AFA957.jpeg
 

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navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,121
Location
East Java
Do manufacturers take into account lining replacement when they build a jacket.
Not that I would need one in many years but looking at my jacket, I can’t seem to figure out how a lining would be replaced without showing through the outside shell.
View attachment 472811 View attachment 472812

Also curious if anyone has requested a different zipper length on a pocket of a custom jacket.
Considering we are all different sizes a pocket size could change the appearance if it is the same for a size 38 versus 48

Looking at these pictures though they are fine, I think I would add another inch if I could and considering it on a build that is in the horizon. View attachment 472814 View attachment 472815
that lining is combat grade canvas right? I bet it will take a very long time to burn a hole on it, However when I planned my own jackets I do think alot about low cost further maintenance by only joining the lining edge on the facing with blind stitch from inside only the result is a bit more free floating and perhaps not as flat lining, might be more "ballooney" but it can be replaced easier, another easy maintenance method is using edge finisher ribbon like Thedi's lining.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,431
Also curious if anyone has requested a different zipper length on a pocket of a custom jacket.
Considering we are all different sizes a pocket size could change the appearance if it is the same for a size 38 versus 48

Looking at these pictures though they are fine, I think I would add another inch if I could and considering it on a build that is in the horizon.

I never requested a custom size but I do have different sized chest pocket zippers on some of my vintage jackets.

The chest pocket on this Windward is relatively small for instance.

CFCB27BB-223C-458D-8AB0-9ACF7D8AFC1B.jpeg


Here's an example of two of the same jackets in different sizes. 38 vs 42.

I think the chest pocket size works for both. What's off is the placement on the size 42, they're half an inch too far out imo.

B787BB22-BB05-4A61-9B0B-D13742CC67B4.jpeg
E80E3015-D76E-4A1C-A97E-D0DA26C351B5.jpeg
77C272F4-0CB1-47B9-BA9F-0D027825FDDB.jpeg
79FD2433-7A11-47B6-B383-778C1E1B7683.jpeg
 

Jasonissm

One of the Regulars
Messages
119
Thanks :)
So, it's Ok. to keep it?
Hope that those wrinkles won't crack.... :)
Will Mustang Paste help a bit?
Speaking of which, do any members here use Mustang Paste? I know it's a really big thing in Japan, but from what I've read here, seems like the preferred option is Pecard.

Have also heard some chatter about the organic oils going rancid? Never experienced that before when I've been using neatsfoot oil, and I have drowned a belt with the stuff back when I had no idea what I was doing. It always seemed quite neat to me using natural horse oil, on some horsehide, it all clicks together in my head. But how it performs in the real world could be a different story.
 

willyto

One Too Many
Messages
1,589
Location
Barcelona
I never requested a custom size but I do have different sized chest pocket zippers on some of my vintage jackets.

The chest pocket on this Windward is relatively small for instance.

View attachment 472853

Here's an example of two of the same jackets in different sizes. 38 vs 42.

I think the chest pocket size works for both. What's off is the placement on the size 42, they're half an inch too far out imo.

View attachment 472854 View attachment 472856 View attachment 472852 View attachment 472855
Those blue jackets are fantastic.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
766
I never requested a custom size but I do have different sized chest pocket zippers on some of my vintage jackets.

The chest pocket on this Windward is relatively small for instance.

View attachment 472853

Here's an example of two of the same jackets in different sizes. 38 vs 42.

I think the chest pocket size works for both. What's off is the placement on the size 42, they're half an inch too far out imo.

View attachment 472854 View attachment 472856 View attachment 472852 View attachment 472855
Both of those look identical and I guess it really doesn’t matter as much as placement and angle of the pocket.

I liked those Shield jackets, they remind me of the skyway blue Speedmaster, I’m always wondering which jacket inspired it, because I’ve looked for a LeatherTogs cafe racer and came up with nothing
Speaking of which, do any members here use Mustang Paste? I know it's a really big thing in Japan, but from what I've read here, seems like the preferred option is Pecard.

Have also heard some chatter about the organic oils going rancid? Never experienced that before when I've been using neatsfoot oil, and I have drowned a belt with the stuff back when I had no idea what I was doing. It always seemed quite neat to me using natural horse oil, on some horsehide, it all clicks together in my head. But how it performs in the real world could be a different story.
This is a subject that gets a million different answers depending on who or where you ask, many leather workers tell you that you don’t even have to worry about conditioning a jacket for many, many years because of the tanning process with oils. That was included with care instructions from Himel Bros.
Then other makers like Langlitz send a new jacket with a tub if conditioner or dressing which they seem to imply in a video to apply at will.
Viberg will send some conditioner with new boots.
So honestly who is to say what’s right, especially considering Langlitz has been making these jackets for so long continuously.

I have some Mustang paste and it is greasy, leaves a film so you want to make sure you buff it all off or it will transfer to clothing.
I also have Pecards which leaves no very little residue and Bick 4 which leaves virtually nothing, doesn’t even change the color of the jacket.
I would guess if it is a new jacket then Bick 4 would be one of the choices if you want to condition a new jacket but don’t want to change the appearance and Pecards maybe a once a year thing and many here say it’s great with vintage jackets and the company seems to aim at that audience.

To condition or not to condition?
 

VansonRider

Familiar Face
Messages
71
I think it really depends on use. If you’re buying a Langlitz, it’s to wear on a bike going upwards of 70mph day in and day out in desert heat, freezing cold and pouring rain. That leather will need a lot more conditioning than a Himel Bros Chinook that’s worn in cars and trains, and goes on dates in the theater. The makers of the coats have built them for different reasons and I think there’s a certain assumption made that people buy a Langlitz or a Himel for different uses.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
766
Here's a leathertogs with stand collar. Possibly the first 'cafe racer' style jacket.

View attachment 473011 View attachment 473012 View attachment 473013 View attachment 473014 View attachment 473015
Amazing, idk where you find this stuff, so this is over a decade before Buco J100?

Is it just me or do you see a little Thedi Leather inspiration here?
That throat latch, and the slightly exposed chest pocket zipper?
I know other people do this too but with the 2 tone and everything combined it reminds me of his creations.
I think it really depends on use. If you’re buying a Langlitz, it’s to wear on a bike going upwards of 70mph day in and day out in desert heat, freezing cold and pouring rain. That leather will need a lot more conditioning than a Himel Bros Chinook that’s worn in cars and trains, and goes on dates in the theater. The makers of the coats have built them for different reasons and I think there’s a certain assumption made that people buy a Langlitz or a Himel for different uses.
Yeah I picture that leather Langlitz uses probably weighs double of what my Himel weighs in steerhide.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,121
Location
East Java
I think jacket for city outings need to be better protected than jacket you would wear in the elements, city jacket is frequently exposed to hazards you don't want to be on your leather jacket like tomato ketchup, mayonaise, peanut sauce, wet paint, spray paint dust, all impacted negatively on your leather jacket. while the jacket you wear on motorcycle will accumulate motor oil fumes, sandblasted by dust and sand, and rain, things that positively make your jacket looks legit.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
766
I think jacket for city outings need to be better protected than jacket you would wear in the elements, city jacket is frequently exposed to hazards you don't want to be on your leather jacket like tomato ketchup, mayonaise, peanut sauce, wet paint, spray paint dust, all impacted negatively on your leather jacket. while the jacket you wear on motorcycle will accumulate motor oil fumes, sandblasted by dust and sand, and rain, things that positively make your jacket looks legit.
It’s so easy to overthink the conditioning and care of a leather jacket because of the price of a good one it but when you join the board and see vintage jackets still alive and kicking 50plus years old, you realize that these will outlive most of us.

I had my first Schott jacket which I rode with in the winter and washed it in my home front load washing machine on cold and hung to dry every year for 5 years I think and you would never know by looking at it.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,121
Location
East Java
It’s so easy to overthink the conditioning and care of a leather jacket because of the price of a good one it but when you join the board and see vintage jackets still alive and kicking 50plus years old, you realize that these will outlive most of us.

I had my first Schott jacket which I rode with in the winter and washed it in my home front load washing machine on cold and hung to dry every year for 5 years I think and you would never know by looking at it.
as long as you don't add detergent it's fine to wash leather in washing machine cold, if you add detergent then perhaps you should recondition, but chrome tanned leather is supple and indestroyable like that probably even more in old days when tannery didn't care about environmental impact or worker's health they used nastier stuff that made leather better preserved, veg tanned leather might brick into leather sculpture when you wash often or too late to condition it.
 

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