BRITISH Belt-Back Suits and Sports Jackets

[herringbonekid]

Burtons 1937:

 

[herringbonekid]

Burtons (not sure of date):

 

[Barmey]

Two belt backs in the Tailor & Cutter models for January 1937

http://s1304.beta.photobucket.com/user/AlexHills/media/DerwentSportsJacket1937.jpg.html
http://s1304.beta.photobucket.com/user/AlexHills/media/BangorSportsJacket1937.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Nice Barmey! Do you happen to have a scan of "Page 134", for the continuation of the instructions for the "Bangor" sports jacket?

 

[Barmey]

Sorry Baron Kurtz, the person I stole the images off neglected to upload page 134.

To make up for it here's a lounge draft and some different action backs from the 1949 edition of the Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier.

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[Baron Kurtz]

cool, thanks for those.

bk

 

[Two Types]

Here is Clifford Evans in 'The Foreman Went to France' (1942):

Front view:

Rear view (note the vent):

The fabric appears to be rather fluffy, with dark flecks:

 

[Chasseur]

I hope Mario does not mind me re-posting his excellent photos of Robert Donat's great tweed belted action back from The 39 Steps. This is the one that really got my desire to own belted back suits up (and the ones in The Rules of the Game as well).

 

[Mario]

I certainly don't mind seeing this one again - even though it makes me regret that I wasn't able yet to procure a similar jacket for myself.

That Clifford Evans jacket looks pretty fluffy and comfy. I'm not a huge fan of those long center seams, though.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Really? I think they're great. A feature not often found on Golden Era stuff; it's nice to come across one. I own only one - an American belted back sportscoat - and it's certainly my "go to" belt back sprotscoat … The pleating on mine isn't nearly o interesting as that on Evans's though.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Great details on that jacket and a throughly enjoyable movie to boot!

 

[Two Types]

Eric Portman in 'Millions Like Us' (1943) wearing a beltback - although it is difficult to see the back, it appears to have rather loose pleats at the belt and no pleats at the shoulder.

He also wears a belt-back lab coat:

 

[Fletch]

Sorry Baron Kurtz, the person I stole the images off neglected to upload page 134.

Very cagey. Now no one else can have that jacket made!

 

[Fletch]

I hope Mario does not mind me re-posting his excellent photos of Robert Donat's great tweed belted action back from The 39 Steps.

Okay, now. This was 1935, and Donat's character was a Canadian, who would presumably have been up on American styles. I'll bet you see few or no beltback references in British films - or ads - before this.

 

[Chasseur]

Okay, now. This was 1935, and Donat's character was a Canadian, who would presumably have been up on American styles. I'll bet you see few or no beltback references in British films - or ads - before this.

Actually he gets that suit from the Scottish lady he hides out with, it is supposed to be her husband's suit. He gets like 2-3 changes of clothing throughout the film.

I'm actually quite curious about when both belted and action backs show up in British and Continental fashion. I've mentioned this before but I've looked over quite a few late 19th and early 20th Century field sports photos from the UK and France (shooting and deer stalking) and I've not seen any action shoulder pleats before WWI. So I assume these come in (perhaps the same time as trouser pleats) in the early 1920s. Because by the 1930s you see them all over the place in "sporty" or country suits and sport coats in the UK and also in France.

 

[Vampyre Master]

Burtons 1937:

what ever happened to Burtons style ;-(

 

[Fletch]

Uncanny how that light-ish grey goes with everything. Probably why you can't get it anymore.

 

[Patrick Hall]

I actually found a pair of genuine flannels in that light gray color at brooks brothers after Christmas. They were ridiculously slim cut, so I had to have the seat and the waist let out a bit, but the drape is wonderful and the color, as you said Fletch, works with anything I throw at it!

 

[Two Types]

Here is an interesting Harris tweed belt-back jacket for sale on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vtg-40s-W...n_s_Vintage_Coats_Jackets&hash=item2328bbb308
It appears to be bespoke since it has very deep patch pockets and a very large breast pocket. They have dated it forties or fifties. I suspect it is later (based on the lining). I don't know much about Harris tweed labels but this appears to be the label style common in the 1960s.
Regardless of the date, I think it is a rather nice jacket.

 

[herringbonekid]

TT, yes i saw that one too. i think it's 60s.