Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Comfort and dress shoes

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
last: A last is a form either plastic or wooden which is used to create the shape of the shoe. Like a block for a hat though for a shoe.


I’m all about the leather sole. Rubber just doesn’t absorb. It’s not breathing a shoe does, it’s absorb and leather absorbs the sweat and conforms to your foot.

When it comes to dress shoes, and I mean shoes a man wears with a jacket and tie, you know, the kind you can shine. When it comes to dress shoes I want to wear mine like an athlete wears sneakers. I want the look the comfort and the mobility. Most shoe companies can get one of the three though I haven’t worn a pair that gets all of the three.

My Alden’s for example: they have a fantastic last shape that is just right for my foot. They are not very mobile when it comes to things like dancing because … well they move like a walking shoe. It’s hard to describe what I mean by moving like a walking shoe. They are a good fit. They are the shape of my foot though in them I am not fast moving. They stunt my speed a bit with their large soles and the heel which (since it is an outflairlast shoe) has more rubber on the inner part of the foot than the outer to keep the foot leaning out. For me they are a 12 hour shoe before they become uncomfortable. Soft uppers and flexible sole. A formed fit after some years of wearing, though still a pain after too many hours on my feet. Beautiful shoes… the best looking I have.

Allen Edmonds. More maneuverable than the Aldens though I have yet to find a last from that company which fits my foot as precisely as the Aldens. The upper leather is very nice and soft. The souls are flexible. Very good for maneuvering on a dance floor… in fact the best when it comes to moving running or jumping. They feel as though they are made for action. Balance comes to mind because my feet don't get wobbly in the Allen Edmonds.

That’s something I want to bring up in shoes and I doubt it is often addressed with current shoe manufacturers. Balance is a big factor when it comes to me and shoes. Some shoes I can walk stand and run in and feel secure that I won’t lose a footing or stumble while doing a spin in a dance. Allen Edmonds are good for that stability. The Alden is a 15-hour shoe with lots of stability.

Now I’ve worn Florsheim shoes and thought I knew why dress shoes went out of favor (I thought it was because comfort and leather shoes did not go hand in glove). I wore a pair of Florsheim wingtips for a few years and never got past the need to sit down at every chance. It was dancing that made me buy the shoes and I thought Florsheim was the name when it came to well made dress shoes. I read the old ads in my 1930’s Esquire mags and felt the nostalgia of just owning a pair. I also felt like I was walking on pavement without shoes wherever I went. It was the way it was done I thought. If I were going to wear a dress shoe it was supposed to hurt my feet. That was what was in my mind and I was the High Schooler with the suffering feet at the time. I learned the hard way that good looking shoes and comfort were two things that were not supposed to g o together. All my hero’s wore dress shoes and I was determined to break in my feet. I later learned I was wrong. The 2-hour shoe, the Florsheims were replaced with Allen Edmonds and my world changed a bit. I cast off the idea of buying what I though were the lower class brands like Florsheim and Bostonian and Clarks and a phalanx of others and decided that Allen Edmonds was it. Then I got my Alden pair and thought these were the beat all end all in dress shoes. Sure they were not comfortable 12 to 15 hours or less of wearing and it’s true that no dress shoe with a leather sole will replace the foam rubber athletic shoes of today, though I was sold on the idea that AE and Alden were the best I could get from a US company when it came to a great dress shoe that looked classy.

I have recently reassessed my idea on this issue. I was on eBay looking for a pair of shoes that would pass for Officer style Army shoes from the 1940’s Plain toe in a russet or close enough color. I found a pair of Bostonians. Same type mentioned in the WWII thread about officer dress shoes. I bought the pair and when they arrived my knee-jerk reaction was to see them as cheap junk when compared to the Allen’s or Alden’s. Looking inside them I saw they had the same arch support cushions as my vintage which are very comfortable. The leather upper looked a bit plasticine and the soles looked a little too much like pressed particle leather when compared to the other two, though they looked like the officer shoes. I hadn’t tried them on and was considering putting them on Ebay when I thought 'why not just wear them as the Officer shoes' and get the rest of the gear. So I tried them on and went for a walk. Then I went dancing. Then I went dancing again. Their uppers are very squeaky and the soles make it feel a bit chunky though light but, these are my most comfortable dress shoes. They are the 24 hour shoes. I can take them all day and so far no problems. Will they wear out faster than Allen’s or Alden’s? perhaps though they are comfortable. They aren’t as stable or balanced on the dance floor as the AE shoes though they are good for shag and Balboa. He plasticine leather uppers aren’t as soft as the other two brands and I doubt they will patina like them though they take a great shine. The heels are not rubbery they are stiff like plastic, though altogether the Bostonians are a very comfortable shoe for a low cost and when it comes to dress shoes like I said before I want comfort looks and balance. These have the comfort and they look okay. Now I need the looks of the Alden with the Balance of the Allen Edmonds and the comfort of the Bostonians.

They are not as much fun for dancing because they put me off balance. It could be because the shoe waist is soo big on the sole, though I can live in them and wear them like Sport shoes.

Those Bostonians.
I just wish they would stay laced
BostonianRaleigh.jpg
 

PenMan

Familiar Face
Messages
73
Location
Sydney, AU
Thanks for the review, Matt. I wear almost exclusively AE, largely for the comfort. I am on my feet for several hours most days, so would give up some looks for greater comfort. Your post will be remembered when I am next looking for shoes.
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Shoe Comfort

PenMan said:
Thanks for the review, Matt. I wear almost exclusively AE, largely for the comfort. I am on my feet for several hours most days, so would give up some looks for greater comfort. Your post will be remembered when I am next looking for shoes.


I used to think I was king if I found a pair of Armanis on sale for AUD350 until I discovered eBay where you can buy real shoes. The I discovered the FL and my knowledge grew another bit and now I am a shoe tragic ..... with comfortable feet!lol
 

Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
Flat laces! I just bought a couple of extra pair this weekend.
What exactly was the guy thinking who had the brainstorm for a "round lace"?

Thank you for the insightful review Matt. When reading reviews I notice a bias against lower priced shoes. Your comments provide an honest balance between quality and comfort. I think you will inspire those who do not (and cannot) spend $300+ for a pair of shoes to consider the options.
 

carebear

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Anchorage, AK
Matt,

You might ask Mojave to scrounge up a pair of the issue leather dress shoe to try. (they come in black and... well... black)

Mine are marked "Clarksville FTWR" is but they look like the Bostonian's. (which makes sense being the same style)

They are light and comfortable and have held up well. They shine up like mirrors. The sole is actually a smooth rubber though, not leather. A comfortable shoe.

I can't imagine they are very expensive on base.
 

carebear

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Anchorage, AK
I know we stripped the finish so we could redye them to get a real good initial polish.

I don't suppose you can strip all the black out? [huh]
 

Dagwood

Practically Family
Messages
554
Location
USA
Although not a shoe made in the US, I found my Church's very classic looking and, the more I wore them, very comfortable. Also, having purchased them about 10 years ago (before the company closed their Beverly Hills location), they never lost their shape. Probably the best shoe I own.

Mobility, well, that is another story. They remind me of a tank. Dancing? Forget about it. Maybe the new shoes are better?
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
I bought a new pair of Bostonian's higher end shoes with a 360 degree welt... been wearing them all over the place. Same thing, lots of support and they are wearing better than the plain toe lower end Bostonians. More comfortable to me than my Aldens or Allen Edmond's as well... I ran down the street in them last night and spent the last few days in them and... well... I have really sensative feet so I like the fact that they are a shoe I can live in. I need another pair.

The Brown ones with which I started this thread about are still very comfortable and as i stated before, they' will probably wear out faster than and are showing alot more wear than higher end brands like Alden or Allen Edmonds. The higher end "Impressions" line of Bostonians which are made in India appear to be pretty well made with better leather uppers and soles which are constructed without flaw... and at 50 buck at my local outlet well... you can't beat that.

Again as i always say... I'll try to post pics later. They look as well made as the Allen Edmond's. Night and day from the Bostonian Classics. Make sense?
 

cookie

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,927
Location
Sydney Australia
Flat Laces

Feraud said:
Flat laces! I just bought a couple of extra pair this weekend.
What exactly was the guy thinking who had the brainstorm for a "round lace"?

Thank you for the insightful review Matt. When reading reviews I notice a bias against lower priced shoes. Your comments provide an honest balance between quality and comfort. I think you will inspire those who do not (and cannot) spend $300+ for a pair of shoes to consider the options.

Must all 40s-50s etc shoes be properly worn with FLAT laces?

Must they be worn with criss cross lacing or is miltary style strapping okay?

I'll ask the experts....(lets see if 10,000 man surfaces...:D)
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Styles of lacing have always been up to the wearer. When it comes to flat laces or round, flat was just more common back in the 30's. From slide on to buckles to rawhide to flat cotton, the flat laces to me look coller as well... unless you want that beatle look, then go with a zipper.
 

jgilbert

One of the Regulars
Messages
234
Location
Louisville, KY
I have four pairs of AE'S one each black and brown toe cap and one each balack and brown loafers. Had all for over 7 yrs and the black toe cap for 12!
All fit well. The brown and black loafers are daily wear and just about ready for new soles. Will do the AE rebuild thing.

Now I know these shoes can be rather pricey, however concerning I go though about 3 to 4 pr of running shoes a yr. they look like a bargin now!

The biggest problem I have is that my left foot is almost a 1/2 size larger than my right. Most of the time if the left fits the right is swimming and if the right fits the toes on the left are cramed at the toe. The four about fit so will keep them alive for as long as I can.
 

Barry

Practically Family
Messages
693
Location
somewhere
jgilbert said:
I have four pairs of AE'S one each black and brown toe cap and one each balack and brown loafers. Had all for over 7 yrs and the black toe cap for 12!

The biggest problem I have is that my left foot is almost a 1/2 size larger than my right. Most of the time if the left fits the right is swimming and if the right fits the toes on the left are cramed at the toe. The four about fit so will keep them alive for as long as I can.

Can you opt for AE's $100 charge to get them "custom" ordered? It might not be necessary or worth it for a 1/2 size difference. I try to get the word out about this because not everyone knows - I sure didn't when I first had my issues.

I wear a D on the right and a EEE on the left (leg brace inserts into my shoe) and I just order the shoes. I try to buy a several of pairs at the same time - that way the $100 covers all of the shoes I order from the store that day. Plus, I can customize them to a certain extent. Alden will do the something similar but the fee is about $150. Also, AE will ship the shoes quickly. Alden takes their time...

Barry
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
The custom styling for $100 extra is a good deal... especially if you want those specific two tones like they made back in the 30's... suede and straight leather.

I wish some of the other companies would offer such customization within the price range of the guy who's not usually dropping $300 dollars on a pair of shoes.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,359
Messages
3,035,134
Members
52,791
Latest member
ivan24
Top