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Five Star Leather Jackets

morrison2951

Practically Family
Messages
518
Location
F-V, NC
Agreed, these buttons look much much better. These remind me of @morrison2951 Wolf halfbelt.

Yep. Sweet. That is great service.

Congrats @ton312!

Unknown-3.jpeg.jpg
 

morrison2951

Practically Family
Messages
518
Location
F-V, NC
This looks much better. Shawn suggested horn buttons at the cuff. Perfect choice!
I’m speechless at how quickly Shawn was able to get this done. Absolutely impeccable customer service. The best I have ever received. Amazing!
View attachment 424629View attachment 424630View attachment 424631

I knew that I liked this Five Star jacket! Not only the cuff buttons resemble the vintage Wolf HB.

Edit: Added Wolf 40's photos.

I may source a Five Star in my future.

Nice score @ton312.
20220505_155348.jpg
20220505_155257.jpg
20220505_155405.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
14,202
Location
Chicago
I knew that I liked this Five Star jacket! Not only the cuff buttons resemble the vintage Wolf HB.

Edit: Added Wolf 40's photos.

I may source a Five Star in my future.

Nice score @ton312.View attachment 424745View attachment 424748View attachment 424749
I’m really excited! The jacket was/is supposed to be sort of a mash up between two vintage pieces.
The campus/Phillips.
59118B90-B149-4FFE-BD4F-891071FC2D5A.jpeg
A14EDC4B-9C75-42AC-9386-DF4664033EF5.jpeg
20B6E0E7-4ECA-48A3-8E06-5F494508AC39.jpeg

981B12FA-6457-424C-BD1A-4EF2E341C54F.jpeg

These are two of the best vintage halfbelt patterns I’ve encountered, each for its own reason. Honestly, the 5 Star 2mm HH is a much “nicer” leather than either. This is why I was heartbroken by the first. I do believe that if Shawn can source similar hide (same weight, hand, etc) I don’t see how he doesn’t become incomparable. The patterns could be tweaked. The sleeves are the biggest thing. The natural curvature is important. Think Field leathers banana sleeves. I believe this is the final frontier for the civilian patterns. When this is perfected and the leather is there (consistently) , 5 Star is matchless and without peer.
 
Messages
14,202
Location
Chicago
It’s straight as a board:
6D789985-102D-4EDE-827C-ECEA2CA52287.jpeg

But I disagree. The curved sleeve is ergonomic in that your arms always have a slight bend and forward flex, unless held rigid. The 2mm is also incredibly soft despite its weight. Truly remarkable. It wears very easily but sacrifices nothing with regard to heft. Honestly one of my favorite “new” leathers since as far back as I can remember.
 

Hh121

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,877
It’s straight as a board:
View attachment 424771
But I disagree. The curved sleeve is ergonomic in that your arms always have a slight bend and forward flex, unless held rigid. The 2mm is also incredibly soft despite its weight. Truly remarkable. It wears very easily but sacrifices nothing with regard to heft. Honestly one of my favorite “new” leathers since as far back as I can remembe.
I am no expert on this, it is just happend all my other jackets has great mobility are straight sleeve, maybe it is something to do with how to attach the sleeve as well.
 
Messages
14,202
Location
Chicago
I am no expert on this, it is just happend all my other jackets has great mobility are straight sleeve, maybe it is something to do with how to attach the sleeve as well.
yes that’s a huge part of it. And the inside seam. I’m particularly interested in your result with moving that seam.
 
Messages
14,202
Location
Chicago
In a remarkable display at f customer service, my remade 30’s HB from 5 Star arrived yesterday. I spoke with Shawn on a Friday and by the following Friday, the jacket was delivered. Absolutely incredible!

Most of the issues I had with the first jacket were addressed perfectly. You can see the chest pocket is now correctly positioned, all the tags are present and the button cuffs are beautiful and secure. The lack of interior pockets also creates a much more pleasing front panel.
1st jacket:
07E3B892-F79C-4F55-85F2-79BDC9782C2B.jpeg

Rebuild:
D031FA3C-3662-47D6-8ED8-CD4E598E9323.jpeg
9BC521D9-EE8F-429C-AA69-D674D700C71C.jpeg

The upper sleeve bicep area however is still far too large. I’ll need to have Dena fix that. It’s not the end of the world. Shawn did send me this QC pic:
90D36602-B22C-44D9-BD1A-7B3D51609C7A.jpeg

I measure it at a full 9” which is 1” more than it should be:
C565A615-B9C1-4239-989E-C2838634E39F.jpeg

A bit of OCD but this does have an impact on how the jacket looks overall. Certainly not bad now by any means but can be improved.

Overall I’d say outstanding service from Shawn and company. The issues that were on 5 Star were addressed 100% to my satisfaction. A little snip in the bicep and it’ll be perfect.
 

MrProper

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,363
Location
Europe
I agree but I do feel the area between these arrows show too much material.
View attachment 425541View attachment 425542
Not the worst thing in the world but 1” flat equates to 2” in diameter. That’s quite a bit of excess imo. Easy to fix though. No amount of curls at the squat rack are going to help me fill these. LOL.
Congratulations, very fine.
I don't mind the sleeve and wouldn't change it. But of course that is always personal preference.
What I find annoying is that sloppy measurements are taken at 5*. Interestingly, always when 5* messed up the desired dimensions. Have they done so with the collar of my brown jacket and then with my very first 5* jacket too. And in between again, I think. Can't remember anymore though.
I do not want to imply any intention, but the suspicion already imposes itself, because if the dimensions are correct, they always measure correctly.
 
Messages
14,202
Location
Chicago
Congratulations, very fine.
I don't mind the sleeve and wouldn't change it. But of course that is always personal preference.
What I find annoying is that sloppy measurements are taken at 5*. Interestingly, always when 5* messed up the desired dimensions. Have they done so with the collar of my brown jacket and then with my very first 5* jacket too. And in between again, I think. Can't remember anymore though.
I do not want to imply any intention, but the suspicion already imposes itself, because if the dimensions are correct, they always measure correctly.
While I saw from Shawn’s photo the diameter of the sleeve was greater than what I requested, it looked within reason at only 1/4” over spec. That to me is perfectly acceptable. 1” however, is simply too much. While I could leave well enough alone and just let it be, that diameter will always trouble me, and keep me from enjoying it as much as I should. I don’t think it’s a terrible thing by any means but I do want it to fall where requested.

The other thing I’ve noticed is that the sleeve construction itself is fundamentally flawed. These are built like an a-2 or other similar military jacket. None of my other jackets are like this. The sleeve should have a natural curvature. I feel like 5 Star did a better job of this with my first Halfbelt:
9166E3CB-2504-499C-9C5C-AB5D7FB62C39.jpeg

^no diagonal creases and the sleeves show a natural curve and bend at the elbow. This was a three panel sleeve, so that may well account for the better shape as well. I’ve poured over all my vintage stuff and I just can’t seem to figure out how to convey this concept.

Of the two, I prefer the sleeves in the bottom photo, with clips attached to trim the diameter:
9C2D46A4-C1AD-41C5-8E85-D3E9A84BE8F9.jpeg
8FF2FBD6-4DD8-41E2-AC2B-47954CBE5489.jpeg

It’s a very small, but in my opinion very significant, difference overall. I am extremely grateful either way for Shawn’s efforts in getting this worked out. At the end of the day, the second jacket is worlds better than the first.
 

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