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Discussion in 'Suits' started by shindeco, Feb 25, 2006.
What size are they?
How many events do you get the opertunity to sport this fine attire?
I found this single British made ?button shawl lapel the other day almost unused, can't think it's been worn more than a couple of times, no labels, dates or anything, size is rougly a 41" regular to long with 34" waist that appears to have been taken in so might let out to a 36"?;
it has handworked button holes and pocket linings are heavy cotton, lighting wasn't so good as light was fading but it is very fresh and clean with no bagging to jacket pockets...oh how I wish it was a short fitting!
and the trousers;
I'm unsure on the age, there iare no brace buttons or belt loops just side adjusters, trousers have button fly and silk lined ? waistband...I'm guessing 1950's? however there is a slight amount of waist supression in the jacket....experts?
With lapels as skinny as that plus the overall cut, it's got to be very late 50s to early 60s. As for the other specs - since it's tailor-made, just about any quirks are possible. I've seen those very side tabs with the hidden elastic band on earlier (early-mid 40s, I think) British tailor-made dinner clothes, too.
I'm actually not sure if they were originally designed to be functional side tabs for holding up the trousers; the narrow adjustment seems more like an option to slightly adjust the trouser waist very effectively without distorting the waistband. These particular tabs are very good for that purpose. Well, in the case of these trousers apparently they were used for holding them up.
Family and I did a fun 19th century themed visit to Iolani Palace which gave me a chance to break out the morning dress!
I'd like to get some thoughts/opinions of others on this. I've got a function coming up in a few days where I'll be wearing my 30's DB peak lapel tuxedo. I know ideally you are to wear a black Homburg with this ensemble, but I don't have one, nor do I really look good in them. I've tried and I just don't think they work for me.
What really sticks in my mind though, is that in "Scarlet Street" c. 1945, Edward G. Robinson's character is at a dinner party wearing a tuxedo at the beginning of the film. When he leaves, he dons what appears to be a gray? fedora with a center dent, upturned rather than snapped brim, and front pinch. I rather like the look, and think it would suit me better, but would it be considered far to gauche? Robinson portrays a man of modest means in the film, would this just have been another way of portraying that? A man "making do" with what he had? If so, I am quite comfortable with that presentation as well since I am no fop. Would this have been something commonly done in the era?
Here are some photos of varying quality showing what I mean.
Whenever I see old movies where the proper overcoat or hat ISN'T worn with eveningwear, I assume it's because back then, men had to dress like that so often, that they cut corners out of reluctancy/indifference. Nowadays, it is typically a fun and rare occasion, allowing us to go all out and enjoy it a bit more.
One thing that seems to be less popular these days is the 'black lounge' or 'stroller' jacket worn with plain grey trousers. It's a sharp alternative to a regular suit.
The trousers are better than the coat. Standard construction for anything between late 1940s to the 60s. Daks top adjusters are fairly common for dinner suit trousers (and morning trousers); on German examples too. The jettings on the jacket hip pocket shown close up are uneven.
Catching up on old threads ...
Laughed when I read the line that I highlighted in bold-underline!
And chances are, when your (future) daughter gets married, you will be able to wear the silk topper!
An new article from Gentleman's Gazette on neckwear for Black Tie. (Link).
My forte is usually ties, as that's usually what I come across... but I figured I ought to make an appearance here as quite recently I came across this vintage tuxedo shirt that as far as I can tell has the correct bearings of a 'proper' tuxedo shirt:
-opens completely in back
-(very) stiff material
I'm always trying to learn, so any estimates on the age of this piece, or any other inputs, would be greatly appreciated!
Front of shirt w/bib front:
Very translucent material:
Bib front detail:
Only original tag:
Thrift store tag:
Back of collar detail:
Button closure on back detail:
Back of shirt Opens Completely:
I'm just guessing, but I think that it's a formal evening shirt, white tie not black tie (tuxedo). If it were my size, I'd love to have it.
A small curiosity here, a vintage made-up bow tie by Horne Brothers, with special clips to hold the tie to the base of the detachable collar.
Here's my semi-formal evening-wear. DB 1930s dinner jacket and trousers with peaked grosgrain lapels, black satin bow tie. Sometimes I might wear a wing-collared pleated-front marcella dress shirt in place of the turndown collar stiff-front marcella one I currently have on. I often wear patterned handkerchiefs, just to mix it up a little. My shoes are standard black plain cap-toe oxfords.
I read this at the http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Neckwear.htm, "A satin lapel calls for a satin bow tie while grosgrain facings require a ribbed or textured finish such as barathea or faille.".
I therefore wonder if it's acceptable to wear a peaked lapel dinner jacket with grosgrain facings, together with a barathea bow-tie and cummerbund?
Rules are made to be broken. I wear my plain satin bow with grosgrain lapels. As long as the bow is of the correct self-tying model, which you tie yourself, and the rest of your ensemble is correct, you'll easily be the best dressed fellow in the room.
Double-breasted dinner suit.
With a top hat? Didn't you know that...
Ah, who cares, it looks cool.