Fountain pens

[EarthAngel]

I hope that I am posting in the right area. I inherited some old vintage fountain pens from my father. I have to assume that they come from the late 40's to the 60's. Is there authorities here that can help me ID this little pocket treasures?

I can post pictures, if you can help.

--EA

 

[Kentucky Blues]

I highy doubt I can help (though I'm sure there are some who could), but I'd REALLy like to see some pics, as I really like fountain pens.

Regards, Daryl.

 

[Michael Mallory]

Fountain pens usually bear the name of the manufacturer on the nib. Hold it under a strong light and use a magnifying glass if necessary. One sign of a true vintage pen -- i.e., 1940s or so -- is if it has a a lever on the outside that draws up the ink. I don't think they make them like that any more (it was too easy to squirt someone, like every film comedian of the 30s and 40s did at some point). If there is a barrel inside, or a plastic cartridge, it is likely newer. I use nothing but fountain pens. Once you start using them, you'll never be able to touch a ballpoint again!

 

[EarthAngel]

Sorry it took so long, but here they are

Left to Right: Sheaffers, Parkers, Parkers and Watermans.

The Watermans is the only one that has the "lever action" that MMallory described above. Enjoy!

--EA

 

[ITG]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but in those pics, the pens look like ballpoints.

 

[MK]

The top one look like a fountain pen. Lets see what Michael....or Michaelson will have to say.

 

[Pen Collector]

I like Fountain Pens also and I use them all the time. Try going to www.penworld.com. They are experts on the subject and can give you details on your pens.


There are times they post vintage pens of some of their readers. The pens you have shown us look like they are in very good condition.

I collect pens but mostly current models. Send those folks at Pen World the photos of your pens and see what they say.

Gabe

 

[EarthAngel]

Sorry for the crappy pictures. I have a relic of a digital camera, and don't have the funds to get the latest and greatest. Yes, they are all fountains. I think that the profile is unfamilar (beside the crappy pictures. sorry for the second time) because people try to ID the nib seperately from the body of the fountain pen. i.e., ala Monte Blanc. In the case of the Parkers, the nib is part of the pen, and that's why is has that sleek design. The nib on the Sheaffer can obviously be seen, but is part of the pen also.

I tried taking several close-ups of the nibs, and it's impossible. I may have to resort to using a friend's scanner and lay them out on the bed.

--EA

 

[Michael Mallory]

The pen ID'd as the Sheaffer -- the one that looks like snakeskin -- is likely a 40s model. That kind of design is being reproduced in new pens, and they tend to be pricey. As for quality, I've always found Waterman to be the best. Mont Blancs are good as status symbols, but they don't work all that well.

 

[Kentucky Blues]

try taking pics of it under some sort of bright light, but without a flash. You know, like put a desk lamp over top of them, then take a pic of that. and if you have to use the scanner, but a piece of paper over them. Then give them to me

 

[John in Covina]

Sorry it took so long, but here they are

Left to Right: Sheaffers, Parkers, Parkers and Watermans.

The Watermans is the only one that has the "lever action" that MMallory described above. Enjoy!

--EA

************
If these are fountain pens then theyare the type with HOODED nibs and would be Late WWI to early 50's as the response to the Parker 51.

 

[KenS]

ID of Two Pens.

Of the middle two;
The top (black) pen is a Parker 51.
The other Lighter color is a Parker 61.
The photos aren't clear enough for me to tell.
Best Regards, Ken.

 

[lairddouglas]

Top is a Waterman from the Late 30's/Early 40's
then an aerometric parker 51 from likely 1948-1960
then a parker 61 from 1959 through probably 1966
last pen is a sheaffer lady skrip from the mid 60's
---------------------
All are easily refurbishable if needed. The Parker 51 would probably be the easiest to use because it likely only needs to filled with water and the water expelled a few times and it would be ready to be filled with ink and writing can commence.

 

[kenji]

Those middle two are, as John points out, with hooded nibs. Probably Parker 51s, but possibly 21s. I don't think they made the 21s with gold filled caps. Can you easily unscrew the nib section to reveal a filling mechanism where you press on a bar covering the sac? Or is there a section that screws off the opposite end that reveals a push button? That will help reveal the age of the pen.

Per my comments on the other thread, many consider the 51s the best pen ever made. Of any type. I carry one in my pocket daily. (John, I agree with you on the angle issue, though. I'm a Lefty, so I generally need to be pretty accurate with my nib angle, which is harder with a hooded nib.) To me, it is the epitome of 40s functionality.

If those are gold filled caps, they are probably worth upward of $100 each. Search OFAS.

 

[kenji]

I stand corrected on 3rd from top. On closer inspection, not a 51. I don't have any 61s. Do they also fill with the aero mechanism, or do they use that weird sponge mechanism I've read about but never seen? How are they as writers?

 

[KenS]

Parker 61

I stand corrected on 3rd from top. On closer inspection, not a 51. I don't have any 61s. Do they also fill with the aero mechanism, or do they use that weird sponge mechanism I've read about but never seen? How are they as writers?

The parker 61 fills VIA capillary action. They do write well, and are a good choice for carrying on an airplane, which is when mine will usually be called into use.
Ken.

 

[Sylvester D]

Anyone have any tips on cleaning fountain pens?? Such as how often, what to use?

 

[John in Covina]

Cleaning as in Flushing?

Anyone have any tips on cleaning fountain pens?? Such as how often, what to use?

************

If you use the same ink bottle, color you can get by with flushing it out maybe 3-4 refills. If you change brands or even colors within the same brand you should flush every time you change. Ordinarily plain cold water will be fine. (Hot or warm water may "adjust" the feed section which you probably won't want to happen.)

If it gets clogged you may wish to use something a little stronger. Fred Krinke at the FOuntain Pen Shop of Monrovia has worked up a "Secret Sauce" for that type of flushing.

Brand new pens and here it comes again:

BALKY FOUNTAIN PENS? FORMULA 409 TRICK!

Have you ever had a new fountain pen that just won't write well? You’ve filled it with your favorite ink and it skips or won't write at all. Well friend, the culprit may be releasing agents, grease or oils left over from manufacturing that is interfering with the delivery of ink.

Stylofiles magazine gave this pointer, which they do on every fountain pen before testing it for their article. But use caution, you may damage a pen if the chemicals attack a part, so no long term soaking! Bare aluminum is most susceptible to chemical damage of the metals but even steel will corrode if left soaking in chemically laden water. Celluloid is fairly strong but damage is possible if left in soaking too long. Casein should neither be soaked nor have any chemicals applied to it, it’s very susceptible to damage. The caveat: Do NOT DAMAGE YOUR PENS! We are not responsible for any damages to pens!

VERSION ONE
Take regular Formula 409 and a small glass like a cordial or shot glass. Spray some 409 in the glass and mix with 3 to 4 parts of COLD water. Dip the nib and feed in the mixture then fill and flush the converter or filling system with the mixture for 1 or 2 minutes. Then replace the mixture with plain COLD water and flush for a minute replace water and flush repeat replacing and flushing again and again for a couple more minutes so no trace of the Formula 409 remains. Then fill with new, clean ink. The writing should be much improved if the oil or grease was the culprit. Be sure to empty the pen of all ink first then flush with plain water before using the cleaning mixture. Always use COLD water as warm or hot can damage the feed!

VERSION TWO
This is supposed to work on both new and older pens that are
presenting a skipping on no flow challenge. Stylus Magazine and some pen aficionados contend that both Formula 409 and Simple Green are too harsh to use on pens. Their alternate flusher and cleaner is a solution you can easily mix up. Mix 1 Tablespoon of Clear Household Ammonia to 2/3rds cup of Cold Water. Flush with this mixture and then flush thoroughly with PLAIN cold water to remove any residue as listed above for version one.

 

[Steve Smith]

Sorry it took so long, but here they are

Left to Right: Sheaffers, Parkers, Parkers and Watermans.

The Watermans is the only one that has the "lever action" that MMallory described above. Enjoy!

--EA

The top pen is a Waterman probably from the 1950's, not an exciting pen. It probably could be made into an OK writer but most likely would have to be taken apart and the rubber sac inside replaced. When you work the lever does it move freely or is it obstructed and making an crunchy sound? The crunch would be a hardened rubber sac. This pen disassembles where the black part meets the threading. Don't force it it doesn't want to come apart. I would just keep it as is unless it has a good sac and fills now.

The next one down is a Parker 51 (if that cap is the one which came with the pen). This pen is from the mid/late 40's or the 50's, most likely. Among vintage pen users, the 51 would be the top vote-getter as greatest fountain pen of all time. They are great writers and generally bullet-proof pens. This pen is an aerometric filler (once again, if that is the original cap). That means that the pen unscrews at the band which is at the nib end. Inside, there is a squeeze lever which pushes a sac which holds the ink. Put the nib end of the pen in a cup of water and squeeze several times. Water should go in and out of the pen and cloud up the water with whatever color was last used. When it pumps clear, fill the pen with water and let it set with the nib end immersed in the water overnight. Then pump out the water and set the nib end down in a dry cup with the end of the pen on a wadded up paper towel. This will allow all remaining water to wick out. Then fill with ink and enjoy. I would bet that this pen will be a great user pen for you and will give no problems.

The next pen is a capillary filler Parker 61. The most interesting aspect of your pen is that it has what is commonly called a rainbow cap. IMO, rainbow capped 61's are beautiful pens. That, plus the end jewel on the other end of the pen make this one a real looker. Don't polish the cap because polishing decreases the contrast between the rainbow colors. 61's were made in the 60's. They are very lightweight and the plastic is prone to cracking. I don't care for 61's as user pens because of the light weight and in my experience they don't usually give a strong ink flow. If you want to use this pen, screw the barrel off and immerse the back end in water and allow some time for it to wick water into the capillary filler. You can blow out the water with your mouth, from either end. Repeat, many times. Then immerse the butt end of the filler in ink to fill. That filler is coated with a teflon material and ink should not stick to it.

The last pen is a Sheaffer cartridge filler from the 60's. You can still buy cartridges for it at any office supply store.

Nice bunch of pens!

 

[Luddite]

Following the theft of my Parker 61 pen, pencil and ballpoint (which I kept in a beautiful vintage cigar case) I bought the Waterman Carene, in the same black lacquer / gold plate trim as my Parkers.

Sadly, despite a couple of years' usage, this pen still skips on a rapid, curving downstroke. I've put up with this as it's a beautiful pen, with a nice weight behind it, but find myself reaching for my Lamy. Is there anything I could do do alleviate this -might it still benefit from a good flushing after this period of use?