Full custom Field Leathers Idaho review

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Marc mndt, Oct 2, 2020.

  1. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,056
    This is going to be a lengthy review but I hope you guys find it worthy to read. I think there is a lot to say about this jacket. Sometimes I just like to see the pictures so let’s start with those first.

    Front.jpg
    Back.jpg
    Field Leathers.jpg
    Handwarmer pockets.jpg
    Chest pocket.jpg
    Lining.jpg
    Grain.jpg
    Front open.jpg
    labels.jpg
     
  2. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,056
    Why did I choose Field Leathers

    I was in the market for a brown halfbelt. The leather had to be full aniline, it had to be a classic design and I wanted custom sizing, no off the rack. Field Leathers simply ticked all those boxes. However, Field Leathers is not an established name so having them make the jacket felt like a bit of a gamble. A big plus was that they offer Shinki leather for a very reasonable upcharge. What made me pull the trigger were the positive reviews of fellow TFL members.

    Process / design

    I reached out to Greg and asked him whether he was ok to do a few design changes on his basic Idaho design. He was totally ok with that so I came up with a design. As you can see I pretty much specified every single seam. I was really impressed with Greg’s double stitching like he does on his Michigan Jacket so that’s what I wanted for my Idaho.

    First design.jpg

    Once we agreed on the design we started discussing leather. I had already set my mind on the brown full aniline Shinki so I was rather disappointed when he told me he discontinued the brown aniline (too much variation in color and grain between hides and therefore almost impossible to match). He did have brown Shinki hide which was pigment dyed, so Greg sent me a few samples in brown, black and blackened brown. The brown wasn’t to my liking. The black full aniline was nice but I really didn’t need another black jacket so I apologized to Greg and told him I couldn’t go through. Greg fully understood but he also suggested this design would look really badass in black. I said thank you but no.

    The days following, the idea of a ‘badass’ black jacket started to grow on me: a jacket without the frivolous double stitching, clean and mean. Maybe a black and red buffalo plaid lining like on those vintage Buco’s would be cool for this build. Also, the black aniline Shinki sample I received from Greg was really really nice. 1.3 mm thickness, substantially heavier than the pigment dyed samples, much nicer than the leather of any of my current jackets. I pulled the trigger.


    Measurements / pattern

    Because I made a custom design, Greg had to make a new pattern. What you see here is the design of the back yoke. The one on the left was what I designed. However, Greg thought a more ‘dramatic’ arch would look better so he made these two other options. I chose the one on the right.

    Back design.jpg

    I had trouble getting the sleeve length right. I measured the sleeve length of a couple of my current jackets but I just couldn’t get it right. Also, I couldn’t decide on the height of the front bottom hem panels. Therefore Greg suggested to make a mock-up jacket so we would be able to alter things if it wasn’t exactly to my liking. As you can see below, there were some improvements to be made.
    mockup.jpg mockup 1.jpg

    There was some bulging on the front shoulder parts. I pinned the extra fabric and sent the jacket back to Greg. To be honest, this issue scared me quite a bit. I was afraid altering the pattern to address the bulging might result in a huge neck opening or some other unforeseen issue. Greg assured me he knew how to address the problem because he had done it many times before. As you can see from the end result, he clearly knows what he’s doing.

    I specified 18’ shoulder width, 22’ptp and 19.5 bottom hem width. He hit all of them, spot on.


    Build quality

    Some say the Japanese can’t be beaten in terms of attention to detail and perfection. I don’t know whether this jacket beats those Japanese -built to perfection- jackets, but this Scottish -built to perfection- jacket certainly comes close, if not on par.

    As you can clearly see, the construction is flawless. Not a single wobble, the jacket has been stitched with laser like precision.

    collar stitching.jpg Shoulder seam.jpg Pocket detail.jpg Center zip.jpg Center vent stitching.jpg Back yoke.jpg

    Is there any negative

    After wearing this jacket for three days, I think I have tot conclude that this jacket is perfect. Perfect fit, excellent build quality, best materials used. The jacket isn’t squeeky and doesn’t require any break-in, which of course are the perks of Shinki horsehide.

    So I reached out to Greg and asked him whether he could make me another one just like this, but it had to be made out of brown aniline leather. Unfortunately for me, he explained why he probably won’t be offering brown aniline in the near future. The hides are so difficult to match that he needs several batches in order to have enough leather to maybe make three jackets, while with the same number of pigment dyed hides he might even get six jackets out of it. Therefore offering brown aniline doesn’t make sense for him as a start-up business, working with small volumes.

    I hope it will make sense when he is able to order larger volumes because I definitely want another Field Leathers jacket. I’m afraid I’m spoiled now. I don’t know any other maker who offers this level of perfection at this price point, with a full custom design and pattern.
     
  3. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,056
    Fitpics

    My gf who took the photo's didn't allow me to put on my 'cool face', so here's a happy smiling me :D
    Fitpics.jpg
     
  4. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    555
    Perfect. I'm almost a little jealous ;)
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  5. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,111
    Location:
    Northeast USA
    The stitching is out of this world.
     
  6. Mich486

    Mich486 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,205
    Super nice Marc! What a massive difference skiving the leather makes on the seams...
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  7. Peter Bowden

    Peter Bowden Practically Family

    Messages:
    584
    Location:
    united kingdom
    Stunning jacket and workmanship
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  8. JoeNiblick

    JoeNiblick One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    210
    Location:
    Alaska
    It’s a beautiful jacket! Thanks for the thoughtful review. I think I speak not only for the the entire Fedora Lounge, but also the internet... We’d like to see your “cool face.” We promise not to tell your girlfriend.
     
  9. Fonzie

    Fonzie One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,076
    Location:
    Australia
    Absolutely perfect in every possible way. Congrats and thanks for the excellent review.
     
    Daddyash1 and Marc mndt like this.
  10. l0fielectronic

    l0fielectronic Practically Family

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    UK
    Wow. Great post and certainly a great jacket.
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  11. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,013
    What a jacket! Congrats for sure it has been fun to watch the process.
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  12. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,412
    Location:
    SoCal
    Congratulations on your fantastic jacket!
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  13. Bennarion

    Bennarion One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,476
    Location:
    Russia
    Excellent review, it was interesting to read. Congratulations!
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  14. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,877
    Location:
    Chicago
    Perfect in every possible way a jacket can be! Greg is incredibly skilled and your photos really highlight his abilities. Well done!
     
    Lebowski and Marc mndt like this.
  15. Jin431

    Jin431 Practically Family

    Messages:
    531
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Very nice indeed, I can't wait to get my black shinki project going. Congratulations on your jacket living up to your expectations and wait. Wear it well, man.
     
    Psant25 and Marc mndt like this.
  16. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,056
    Thnx! I think Greg might have raised his own bar with this excellent build. He'll be making you a jacket as well? Be warned: you might be spoiled after you got yours :p
     
  17. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,743
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    WOW!.. I think it can be said that Greg is right up there with the Big Boys now!

    as an aside.. his he going to offer your pattern as a full time model?
     
  18. Jin431

    Jin431 Practically Family

    Messages:
    531
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    The brown aniline Route 66 should be shipped today and I ordered a 2nd jacket in black shinki too not sure yet what design but maybe a cross zip. Yep, looks like it. That jacket he made for you, suits you so well it's just crazy good
     
    Marc mndt likes this.
  19. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,056
    I don't know but I'm pretty sure he will make another one if you're interested. If you are, maybe you should ask for brown aniline. If he gets enough requests he might just order another batch :p
     
    Cornelius, Boyo and Jin431 like this.
  20. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,412
    Location:
    SoCal
    I think Greg is doing a really great job, and I’m looking forward to watching his repertoire grow in even more unique design directions.
     
    regius and Marc mndt like this.

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